the battery charge light keeps blimking on and im not sure what it is i think my alternator might be going out?????? i priced some alternators stock 60 amp is 100 bucks but one rebuilt at a local shop high output 100 amps is 200. wich one is better????
battery charge light on??????????
- Thread starter Baja Dan
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it is best to rebuild the alt under all circumstances.
a high 100A output is not nessicary unless you run a winch, lights or other demanding electrical stuff.
to rebuild to stock specs, in most cases all a guy does is install a set of brushes which costs under $10
to upgrade it is the stator and windings that are replaced. which is expensive.
please for the love of all that is muddy, dont buy a napa/shucks/whatever brand chain store part. they are all garbage.
when the brake light and charge lite are on at the same time the brushes need replaced. if its just the light, the alt may have a loose connection or have internal failure. check all connections first.
a high 100A output is not nessicary unless you run a winch, lights or other demanding electrical stuff.
to rebuild to stock specs, in most cases all a guy does is install a set of brushes which costs under $10
to upgrade it is the stator and windings that are replaced. which is expensive.
please for the love of all that is muddy, dont buy a napa/shucks/whatever brand chain store part. they are all garbage.
when the brake light and charge lite are on at the same time the brushes need replaced. if its just the light, the alt may have a loose connection or have internal failure. check all connections first.
do a quick check for voltage at the battery terminals, or buy the $9 wally world battery checker that plugs into the CL.
Look for +/- 14VDC at the + terminal of the battery. If you are getting less, then a alt. brush replacement is in your future, ditto on overcharging, though that would be the internal/external regulator. You may luck out and jus thave a loose/corroded connection. Check the ground to the block as well
Look for +/- 14VDC at the + terminal of the battery. If you are getting less, then a alt. brush replacement is in your future, ditto on overcharging, though that would be the internal/external regulator. You may luck out and jus thave a loose/corroded connection. Check the ground to the block as well
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I hope your rebuilt one is a Denso. If not, expect trouble sooner than later....
With the engine running disconnect the positive battery cable. If the truck dies the Alternator is most likely bad. If it stays running you could have another problem.
Toyminator,
This method worked on older vehicles that use a mechanical voltage regulator. But, on newer vehicles (or older ones that have had the voltage regulator replaced) with an electronic (solid state) voltage regulator, you will blow the voltage regulator or the alternator when you remove the positive battery cable while the engine is running.
Newbie
Greetings all... I am brand-spankin'-new to "forums" and hope you'll bear with me on my journey up the learning curve. I've an '85 22re in a Dolphin motorhome and the "charge light" issue here caught my eye.
At start-up and idle, both the charge and brake dash lights remain on until the rpm is increased to about 2000. At that point the lights go out and remain out until the next start-up. I had a mech. tell me this is normal but I'm not so sure he wasn't blowin' smoke. Any definitive advise would be appreciated.
Greetings all... I am brand-spankin'-new to "forums" and hope you'll bear with me on my journey up the learning curve. I've an '85 22re in a Dolphin motorhome and the "charge light" issue here caught my eye.
At start-up and idle, both the charge and brake dash lights remain on until the rpm is increased to about 2000. At that point the lights go out and remain out until the next start-up. I had a mech. tell me this is normal but I'm not so sure he wasn't blowin' smoke. Any definitive advise would be appreciated.
Greetings all... I am brand-spankin'-new to "forums" and hope you'll bear with me on my journey up the learning curve. I've an '85 22re in a Dolphin motorhome and the "charge light" issue here caught my eye.
At start-up and idle, both the charge and brake dash lights remain on until the rpm is increased to about 2000. At that point the lights go out and remain out until the next start-up. I had a mech. tell me this is normal but I'm not so sure he wasn't blowin' smoke. Any definitive advise would be appreciated.
change mechanics! he is wrong!
you must replace the brushes on the alternator. read post #2.
if you dont know how to, find someone who does. but trust me its easier than sharpening a pencil.
Newbie again
Thanks for the steer Wristy, but I decided to bite the bullet and get my hands dirty enough to do a little troubleshooting on my own. Problem turned out to be a faulty battery isolator going to the RV system. My guess is it was the original installed by the company doing the RV mod. and just finally gave up the ghost.
A new 95 amp unit, (the old 60 amp one was getting pushed by an 85 amp alt.) and she works as advertised.
Thanks for the steer Wristy, but I decided to bite the bullet and get my hands dirty enough to do a little troubleshooting on my own. Problem turned out to be a faulty battery isolator going to the RV system. My guess is it was the original installed by the company doing the RV mod. and just finally gave up the ghost.
A new 95 amp unit, (the old 60 amp one was getting pushed by an 85 amp alt.) and she works as advertised.