Bad decisions make great memories...eventually.

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

MDarius

I break stuff.
SILVER Star
Joined
Apr 10, 2006
Threads
177
Messages
2,059
Location
Bountiful, UT
If you’re reading this you’re going to have an opinion, a judgement, or some input on what I should have done differently. Thanks. I’ve probably already applied them to myself. When your family is in mortal danger and you’re the one that got them there, and out, you tend to go through that. So, with that being said fire away I guess. I’m putting it out there in a public forum. What can I expect? But I’m putting it out there in the hopes not everybody will have to learn hard things from their own experience. Let my life serve as a warning.

The short story: We got to the Needles trailhead in the Devil’s Kitchen loop off Elephant Hill in Canyonlands National Park a little late in the day, about 2PM. We hiked until about 4:30 when we drove out. Through a series of bad decisions and lack of information/misinformation, we took the “back road out” instead of tackling elephant hill in the dark without a good spotter or staying overnight. My recollection of the Beef Basin road was that it was an easy route out of the park, just kind of long. It turns out my memory was wrong and it did not include snow. We ended up at an elevation of about 7,800 feet with over 6 inches of old snow on an uphill grade. I couldn’t make it any farther and we spent the night in the truck in temps below 20F. Me, my wife, and 3 of my kids, all adult size. My SPOT tracker didn’t get the SOS signal out.

EDIT: I learned that my SPOT subscription expired and the auto-renew failed. The unit wasn't registered with their service.

In the morning, I was still concerned about going down the couple miles of snowy incline we had just come up, nearly sliding off multiple times, and we didn’t know if any of our texts got out (Stranded! Send Search and Rescue! [GPS coordinates were inserted here]), or if the SPOT tracker actually worked. We built a signal fire but had no confidence anyone was looking yet. So, before the sun could soften the crusty snow making it harder to get down, and before another storm could hit leaving us more stranded, we headed back down towards Elephant Hill where I knew we could get out. As we drove we would catch some notifications on our phones, but never enough signal to get a new message out. Therefore, our “Help us! We’re stranded!” messages we'd written the night before got out, but our messages about being on our way out never did. So, SAR was contacted about 11AM. We finally got signal about 4:30 PM to let them know we were safe. The truck performed admirably, I learned some new skills and maneuvers, and one of my children is emotionally scarred for life, reportedly to never go 4 wheeling again. The dangers were real but we are all safe.

This is long, but it’s a bit of Post-traumatic stress therapy. If you stick with it to the end you might enjoy it, or learn something, or just get bored.

There’s tech though.

-Confirmed: The 80 has a big butt and will drag on this trail unless you have more than an OME heavy lift with 35” tires. I left some trailer hitch gouges.

-The steering wheel is now cocked to the right about 1/3 of the way. Twisted King Pin?

-Driving in the snow: Airing down always confused me. If you’re making the first tracks, isn’t it more difficult to get through aired down? And without a compressor on board, what’s the lowest you can go and still drive 50-60 miles to the nearest town for air?

-After a hellacious and torturous 2 days of abuse on the trail, what are the first things I should be checking? I think: Alignment, dented [anything underneath] that’s not armored, exhaust hangers…what else? Any concerns I should have about fluids after driving hard for that long?

-My rear locker would never engage. I’ll do some searching because I’m pretty sure this has been covered in other threads.

-I engaged the front lockers while in motion a few times, actually while giving it gas in 4 Low to get over obstacles. OK or I was lucky to not grenade something?

-Trail Tailor’s ( @reevesci ) roof rack has been tested as roof armor and approved. It’s tough as hell! Limb risers are a good thing and I still need them. Carry the hi-lift INSIDE the rack instead of outside to reduce destruction to vegetation and to get through the squeeze on the Elephant Hill loop.

-Install armor! We got through without more than a couple gouges on the front fender flare, but it's a small miracle my low hanging cats didn't get removed on this trip. I need sliders!
 
Last edited:
Lessons learned:

Plan enough time
We left the hotel later than we wanted. It was an hour and a half from Moab to Canyonlands, then…what? Another hour or two from the top of Elephant Hill to the Devil’s Kitchen loop? We could have driven the loop OR gone hiking, but not both before the sun set around 5:30.

Acknowledge the strengths and weaknesses in your group
My wife is terrified of heights. She doesn’t like being in the rig on more technical sections or when she feels “out of control” in the vehicle. I haven’t done an adequate job training any of these family members as a spotter. My oldest son has always been my spotter and he wasn’t with us. We were driving solo, no trail buddies. This was not the right drive for them.

The picture is us getting back from our hike. Notice the shadows on the red rock. Dusk is within 20 minutes or so.

20161229_164248_HDR.webp
 
Damn...you pressed the SPOT button and it didn't send? You guys must have been pretty freaked out!
 
Check your knowledge and confirm your information
I’ve only ever been in this area once before, in 2002 I think. 14 years will fade and change memories. The guide books and maps I had with me were out of date or inadequate for a solo back country adventure. (Utah Byways…the one with the Land Cruiser on the cover, a well-worn Delorme Utah atlas). The Utah Byways book covers things as a tour, allowing time for sight-seeing and side loops. The difficulty ratings are subjective. My memory said that the Beef Basin road was an easy way out, mostly ranch roads. I also did it in the spring, not December. I also didn’t do all of it, which I thought I had. I also was a passenger in 2002, not the driver. This false memory and concept of the road ahead of us kept me going forward, obstacle after obstacle, expecting it to get easier just around the bend. It didn’t.

Take the time to read and study while on the trail
By the time we were done with the hike we’d be tackling elephant hill in the dark to get out. I didn’t want to do that without good spotters and my wife REALLY didn’t want to do it at all. So, let’s take the easy way out. It’s longer but I’ve got 7 gallons of gas on the rack. I didn’t READ the pages in the Byways book closely, I skimmed for key info. The Delorme book has very light contour lines, hard to read in the dark with 45 year-old eyes. I was trusting someone else to read the maps while I drove, someone without good map reading experience. “No time to really understand what’s there! We must go if we’re going to get out of here at a decent time! You figure it out and I’ll drive.” Bad. Bad. Bad. I missed the “Expect to take all day” part, 100 miles part, and ignored “may be impassable in wet weather” part. It wasn’t wet and there was little to no snow to be seen…from where I was.

Cut your Losses Early
We got to Bobby’s hole (I think that’s what the hill was), and it had 2-3 inches of snow on it, and I had to use lockers and the skinny pedal to get up. When I saw it I knew it would be tough. But seeing it in just the glow of the headlights, just as far as the headlights will go, is deceiving. We had already been through some technical stuff that I didn’t want to go over again to get back to a good campsite that night. Besides, “I’m sure the easy trail is just around this obstacle.” It wasn’t. It was only about 6-7 PM at this point. Too early to say we failed and we’re spending the night in the truck. Too late to turn back and do Elephant Hill. Soldier on!

This is the descent into Bobby's hole the next day with my two intrepid spotters.

20161230_120215.webp
 
“Be prepared for any old thing” – Lord Baden Powell
I’m a Boy Scout. While we weren’t planning to spend the night in the truck, everybody had extra blankets, we had 1 good zero degree sleeping bag, cold weather clothes, entertainment, food that could stretch for 3-4 days, fire starting gear, recovery gear, shovel, toilet paper, etc. Surviving overnight was not a problem. Surviving for a few days was not a problem. Figuring out how to get out of the area safely was the problem. I wasn’t sure I could go back down what I came up in the dark in desperation. I couldn’t find another way out and that looked like my only option. Which leads to…

If you don’t want to go down it, don’t go up it. And vice-versa.
Bobby’s hole covered in snow, the uphill grade of Beef basin (FR 104 and 93) covered in snow, other obstacles that were not fun in the dark without spotters…doing it all the other direction was too much. My family was done and scared. I was tired from driving all day. The road gets better around the next bend and every mountain has a peak, so surely this will get easier. After going up these in snow that got deeper as the elevation climbed, I wasn’t confident in my ability to go back down without sliding off the road.

People who go 4-wheeling in the snow on purpose are idiots
Seriously? Off camber, in the snow, with a cliff on the downhill side and your family in the truck is not fun. WHAT ARE YOU THINKING?? GET A FREAKING SNOWMOBILE!! I learned a few techniques, including one that saved our bacon. No room for a 3 point turn on uphill Beef Basin road with 8 inches of snow (at this point), but I want to go back down. Try a 3 point anyways. Back up to the hill side and bump the trailer hitch into a rock. The back end stops and the front end, with a little gas, continues downhill. Turn the wheels at the appropriate time and you have a successful 2 point turn! Cool. If someone wants to take me snow wheeling and teach me I’ll go, but you have to have never posted a snow picture with you stuck off camber or slid downhill. I already know how to do that.

Everything looks better…or worse…in the daylight.
There are sections I wouldn’t have tackled if I’d seen them in the daylight. (See the Snow wheeling comments) But overall going back down in the daylight was much better than I expected.

“With great power comes great responsibility” – Uncle Ben
With a triple locked cruiser, 4+ inches of lift, 35” tires, and a decent driver you can pretty much go anywhere. On Friday when we found out search and rescue had actually been called in we discovered that they first tried to get to our GPS coordinates with trucks. They couldn’t get to us so they sent in the helicopter. If you’re going to have one of these have the skills to deal with the challenges you could get into and the wisdom to know when to call it quits. In a lesser vehicle we wouldn’t have made it so far into the back country. Our situation wouldn’t have been nearly as frightening or dangerous. (This is where you tell me I’m not worthy to own one and to get off the forum. Thanks. Got it. I’m not selling and I’m still here.)

Take more pictures.
Everybody loves carnage and terror. With only car charger working below spec and 5 phones we were conserving our batteries for more important things, like trying get a “Send help!” text out to our family and friends and communicate with rescuers if we ever got the chance. I didn’t take nearly enough pictures of the trail. We were using one phone for most of our night time adventures and Beef Basin, then my daughter lost it. Not going back for it, either.
 
Damn...you pressed the SPOT button and it didn't send? You guys must have been pretty freaked out!

Yeah, it turns out the SPOT SOS message went out at the same time our phones got signal on the way out the next day. I set it up to send bread crumbs, but apparently it wasn't doing that either. I'm having words with SPOT on Monday.
 
Yeah, it turns out the SPOT SOS message went out at the same time our phones got signal on the way out the next day. I set it up to send bread crumbs, but apparently it wasn't doing that either. I'm having words with SPOT on Monday.
Yup. Friend and I played around with his SPOT. We aren't even talking remote area. I was stuck at home and he was out on the trail. Figured we would do some testing as I knew his exact location already. Failed miserable on reliably getting a message out and where abouts. Soon as he got home deactivated the service and tossed the POS.
 
Yup. Friend and I played around with his SPOT. We aren't even talking remote area. I was stuck at home and he was out on the trail. Figured we would do some testing as I knew his exact location already. Failed miserable on reliably getting a message out and where abouts. Soon as he got home deactivated the service and tossed the POS.
Of course I got all the messages once he hit pavement on his way home. :doh:
 
Yup. Friend and I played around with his SPOT. We aren't even talking remote area. I was stuck at home and he was out on the trail. Figured we would do some testing as I knew his exact location already. Failed miserable on reliably getting a message out and where abouts. Soon as he got home deactivated the service and tossed the POS.

Yeah, I've used it with success before, and the bread crumbs thing is cool. This is my first time using the SOS and the first time it failed. If I can't rely on a tool it doesn't belong in my tool box.
 
How about 1 more lesson-don't go by yourself! Good on you though for making sound decisions once you were stuck and in a bad spot.

The wheel cocked to the right is concerning. It usually means you have twisted the steering box sector shaft, so examine the spines above the pittman arm with great attention.

Great story though. So I'm trying to visualize this--you left the Devil's Kitchen area headed toward Beef basin at nearly dark? To get out of there you need to climb to the top of Elk Ridge and traverse that for miles until you get to the road to Blanding. I've been in snow there in May, so my guess is that would have been a no go. And it's a stout climb out of Beef Basin with lots of exposed uphill turns and the like.

There's also the Bobby's Hole/Impossible Hill thing before you even get to Beef Basin. With snow. Dang-ambitious to say the least.
 
How about 1 more lesson-don't go by yourself! Good on you though for making sound decisions once you were stuck and in a bad spot.

The wheel cocked to the right is concerning. It usually means you have twisted the steering box sector shaft, so examine the spines above the pittman arm with great attention.

Great story though. So I'm trying to visualize this--you left the Devil's Kitchen area headed toward Beef basin at nearly dark? To get out of there you need to climb to the top of Elk Ridge and traverse that for miles until you get to the road to Blanding. I've been in snow there in May, so my guess is that would have been a no go. And it's a stout climb out of Beef Basin with lots of exposed uphill turns and the like.

There's also the Bobby's Hole/Impossible Hill thing before you even get to Beef Basin. With snow. Dang-ambitious to say the least.

Yes, sector shaft. That's what I meant, not King Pin.

Ambitious and stupid don't have much separation. It turns out that in 2002 when I first did this we only went out and back to the ruins in Beef Basin. We never did the whole thing. My memory was that we had, so I remembered it being pretty short. Not.
 
Last edited:
Been there more than I like to admit.

Make sure the kids know your proud of them for pulling together as a family. Would have been near impossible to get home without their help.
 
Going alone - Yes, definitely. We weren't originally intending to do Elephant Hill on this vacation. It just kind of came up. I knew the loop would be traveled by others and close enough to a parking lot to get help. My recollection of the back way out was that it was only about 5 miles of challenging road and about 30 of ranch type roads, so I didn't think I wasn't taking much risk. Except I was wrong.

Also, tell someone where you're going. We were planning 3 days in Moab and then home. When we decided to divert to CanyonLands we didn't bother telling anyone about our change in plans. Slipped my mind.
 
In hindsight it goes down as a great adventure right?

My Delorme InReach has always gotten my messages out within a couple minutes at its slowest. I've not yet had to hit the SOS button. They only thing that has been a little finickey is he pairing with my phone. I've used it from Devil's Kitchen.

I'd say your worst decision was heading out solo. (One truck). We all do it though. I had an under hood electrical fire the last time I did. Could have stranded my son and I a few miles from the nearest hope of help at the minimum. I was able to put it out and continue without loosing the truck, luckily.

Snow wheeling is sketchy at best. Done it for fun a few times. Don't much like it. But learned some things that will come in handily someday when it counts. I generally carry one pair of chains after October 1 regardless of weather forecasts.
 
Last edited:
My son and I have done many solo trips up and down the entire West Coast. Problems happen. Being prepared and having the right mindset will get through mostly anything. Communication is pivotal. I keep telling myself to get a Ham radio. Need one.
Just do it! Grab one of the little cheap Baofengs. And later add a 8800 or something to truck (I like the ability to use the truck as base station repeater at camp and head out with the handheld)

Amazon.com: BaoFeng UV-5R Dual Band Two Way Radio (Black): Cell Phones & Accessories
or
BAOFENG Waterproof UV-5RA Two Way Radio Walkie Talkie Dual Band FM Radio HW28 (Color: Black)
or........
 
Back
Top Bottom