Bad day for the Cruiser...

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No, "someone" didn't crash it into a pole or anything... it just kind of got sick...


Started the day in stop/start traffic. When I went to "go", it wouldn't. It felt as if the t-case had slipped into neutral or something... after fiddling about, I engaged the CDL and away I went.

So I figured something was wrong with the transfer case. Anyway, I worked all day, knowing that after my shift I'd have to remove the front shaft for the drive home. This, I did.

Off I went, minus the front shaft.

About 5 minutes into the drive, I noticed my brakes were rapidly becoming softer and softer....

And that the truck was pulling harder and harder to the left....

And there was this speed-relative grinding noise...

Then the brakes were completely non-operative...

And there was all this smoke....

And the smell of burning brake fluid....

Quickly pulling into a parking lot, I jumped out to discover a cartoonish amount of negative camber from the driver's side front wheel, and a cloud of acrid smoke emerging from the wheel. Yes, it was falling off.

I guess a wheel bearing failed(?). At any rate, I don't have time to address this, as it's my DD and my only way to work, so I had it towed to a buddy's shop. Should be an autopsy in a day or so.

My question to Mud: Is it possible that the "failure" of the transfer case is related to this? What I suspect is that somehow there was either too much resistance or not enough resistance in the failing wheel, which "fooled" the 4WD system into sending all its power to that one wheel. Locking the centre diff restored power to the rear axle, and enabled me to limp on. Does this make any sense?
 

NaterGator

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:hmm:

This sounds somewhat reminiscent of my wheel bearing failure, though mine was slightly less catastrophic. Prepare to buy a bunch of new front end parts :frown:

Do you know how many miles it's been since your last bearing repack?
 
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Smoking hot wheel has to equal lots of friction but with Tcase unlocked power should have been directed to other wheels right? I think it was just one of those crazy coincidences. Like the night I came out to my truck and found that the driverside parking light and headlight were both out and the interior lights were flickering. The two bulbs up front just happened to blow at exactly the same time and the flickering interior light was completely unrelated. Of course, paranoia kicked in and I thought my trucks electrical system was falling apart.
 
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My question to Mud: Is it possible that the "failure" of the transfer case is related to this? What I suspect is that somehow there was either too much resistance or not enough resistance in the failing wheel, which "fooled" the 4WD system into sending all its power to that one wheel. Locking the centre diff restored power to the rear axle, and enabled me to limp on. Does this make any sense?

Yeah, it makes sense, but it's simpler than that: Something let loose (drive flange? Birf?) in the left front, so yes, all power went to that wheel, just as if it was off the ground. Then later whatever broken bits were floating around in there got all hot and bothered, and well, there you are. :frown:

Good luck,

Curtis
 
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:hmm:

This sounds somewhat reminiscent of my wheel bearing failure, though mine was slightly less catastrophic. Prepare to buy a bunch of new front end parts :frown:

Do you know how many miles it's been since your last bearing repack?

Yeah, that's a pisser... It's been approximately 4000 miles since a complete front-end job including new Longfields. I'm hoping a defective little bearing didn't just destroy my nearly-new front end.
 
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My question to Mud: Is it possible that the "failure" of the transfer case is related to this? What I suspect is that somehow there was either too much resistance or not enough resistance in the failing wheel, which "fooled" the 4WD system into sending all its power to that one wheel. Locking the centre diff restored power to the rear axle, and enabled me to limp on. Does this make any sense?

When the bearing (or whatever) carked, I suspect that it allowed the axle shaft on that side to either disengage at the diff or at the hub/drive flange. You end up with no power to any wheels while that one freewheels. Then, yes, the CDL sends some torque to the rear axle and you're moving but with no torque to the front tires.
 
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When the bearing (or whatever) carked, I suspect that it allowed the axle shaft on that side to either disengage at the diff or at the hub/drive flange. You end up with no power to any wheels while that one freewheels. Then, yes, the CDL sends some torque to the rear axle and you're moving but with no torque to the front tires.

ah... that makes sense. Hopefully it was a clean separation and the Logfield is okay.
 
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About to install longs myself and after paying for them I hope for your sake they are ok as well ... sorry to hear about your luck
 
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About to install longs myself and after paying for them I hope for your sake they are ok as well ... sorry to hear about your luck

Well, they're still cheaper than stock.... plus I still have the good stock birfs if need be.

Just started a new job, though, and money is tigh... no, wait, "non-existent". Ain't that always the way?
 

PacToy

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ah... that makes sense. Hopefully it was a clean separation and the Logfield is okay.

Yeppers! Just helped a bud out who had the same bad wheel camber problem. I'm putting my money on wheel bearings for what you describe.

I have no idea about your t-case. If you ask me, fix what you know is wrong first is continue on from there. I betcha, you fix those wheel bearings you will find the solution to your t-case gizmo malfunction. Silly things happen like that when everything is working together as a FWD would be.

FWIW, My buddy lost the wheel bearings so bad on the DS that it broke the birf in two. I got a pic somewhere here.
 
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...
FWIW, My buddy lost the wheel bearings so bad on the DS that it broke the birf in two. I got a pic somewhere here.

I'll pass on the pic, thanks.


Aside: my first 4Runner had a rear axle seal fail at highway speed. emptied the housing, and caused one (PS) bearing to fail. The leaked oil got into the brake drum and caught fire. It was night time and someone pulled up beside me, pointing frantically at my truck's rear. I could see an orange glow reflected in their "black" paint, and my first thought was "holy s***, does that moron know his truck is on fire?" Total "Planes, Trains and Automobiles" moment on my part. :doh:
 

NaterGator

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Yeah, that's a pisser... It's been approximately 4000 miles since a complete front-end job including new Longfields. I'm hoping a defective little bearing didn't just destroy my nearly-new front end.

Hmm. Defective bearing is possible but (I mean this with no offense) I'd go back over everything you did last time to make sure that you didn't make a simple mistake that cost you the bearing. Improper preload setting, or moly grease for example.

Also, aren't longs softer and therefore not specced for DD use?
 

PacToy

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I'll pass on the pic, thanks.


Aside: my first 4Runner had a rear axle seal fail at highway speed. emptied the housing, and caused one (PS) bearing to fail. The leaked oil got into the brake drum and caught fire. It was night time and someone pulled up beside me, pointing frantically at my truck's rear. I could see an orange glow reflected in their "black" paint, and my first thought was "holy s***, does that moron know his truck is on fire?" Total "Planes, Trains and Automobiles" moment on my part. :doh:

Your giving me a good laugh there, Yupper.

I'm sorry, I can't give you a better solution to the problem you describe but I will still put my money on relativity to FWD that the 80s have. Start simple and work from there.

You know where part of the problem already exists, go from there and I "believe" everything will fall into place there after. Correct as you see fit.
 

Godwin

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It's been approximately 4000 miles since a complete front-end job

Could be as simple as having forgotten to bend a tab on the star washer which allowed the outer wheel bearing to loosen to the point of catastrophe. I committed this oversight last year on a FJ60 but caught it within 500 miles. Still had to replace the spindle, birf, wheel hub, and locking hub.
 
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Were the 4 bolts under the knuckle intact? That sounds like the hub was able to pull the shaft outboard and disengage that side's drive shaft from the diffy.

DougM
 
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At least you scored a cheap plenum hose from me, I do have a nice set wheel bearings in the basement that could use a good home.

Good luck with the rebuild, you really won't what happened until you tear down that axle, make sure you post some pictures.
 
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Were the 4 bolts under the knuckle intact? That sounds like the hub was able to pull the shaft outboard and disengage that side's drive shaft from the diffy.

DougM

I only had a very cursory peek today; it's at my buddy's shop.

Judging by the scoring, it appears one bearing failed, and caused the wheel to lock up. The loss of momentum came when the Longfield literally twisted into two sections - it's cleanly broken at the hub end. Also toast is the spindle, rotor, and possibly the caliper, not to mention the little stuff like the bearing, lock nut, etc.

Luckily I have the stock birfs, which are in good condition. Sourced a used hub/spindle assembly. Looks like I'm into all the rest new OEM. :doh:

I guess I'm lucky - this happened in stop/go traffic. If I'd been on the highway the outcome could have been much worse.

Still, :doh:
 
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No chit.

I'll have to look at my FSM to find out exactly what *isn't* toast. :eek:

Hang in there,

Curtis
 

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