Well my overheating problem with the 4runner is getting worse. Going to bring it back to the shop tomorrow and see if they can get it back sooner than 3 months this time 
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Back to the shop we go.
- Thread starter BikerTrash
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Yikes... good luck bud
me
me
No doubt. Keep us posted.
- Thread starter
- #4
Well got some advice I had not even considered. Because I am just using a single vacumeline for my advance, and tee-ing it off to both ports on the dizzy, I might be pulling too much advance, and that might be the source of my overheating, and wh it cools off so quickly at idle.
need to pick up a timing light and see just what is going on with that.. GOING HOME TOMOROW!!!!!!
need to pick up a timing light and see just what is going on with that.. GOING HOME TOMOROW!!!!!!
Well got some advice I had not even considered. Because I am just using a single vacumeline for my advance, and tee-ing it off to both ports on the dizzy, I might be pulling too much advance, and that might be the source of my overheating, and wh it cools off so quickly at idle.
need to pick up a timing light and see just what is going on with that.. GOING HOME TOMOROW!!!!!!
I SERIOUSLY doubt that. More likely your timing is off. Reason: one port only adds a tiny amount of degrees for high altitudes...its common practice to get as much vac. adv. as possible w/o issue. Finally, advanced timing WOULDN'T cause that.... but rather RETARDED/LEAN condition WOULD.
I know this for a FACT and from real life experience
having done it.I'd be glad to argue/prove it, but here's the deal: Advanced timing actually cools the engine and has to be super far advanced to the point of pre-ignition or detonation to cause overheating. Too much advance and the engine PINGS/knocks.
RETARDED TIMING causes OVERHEATING. I've actually done this on accident ....not realizing that I had to disconnect my ECU during initial tiiming of EFI motor. Overheated on highway. Fixed base timing, never got pass the first tick mark!
Here's what I recommend....FIRST of all , most people assume and I DON'T KNOW WHY , but they ASSUME that the ports on the distributor are vacuum advance. This is silly. in fact, MANY cars and land cruisers either don't have vacuum advance AT ALL, or they have one vacuum retard and one advance or 2 advance ports and one retard port, or just retard. (no pun intended).
So, you should hook up a timing light. Plug vacuum on engine/intake, plug all vaccuum Diaphram ports, then one at a time SUCK (or use a pump) on each line and FIND OUT if it advances or retards the timing.
One thing I've seen alot are people with older FJ40's that don't even have vacuum advance AT ALL....with them hooked up....
dont get it.later
Good Lord! Dude, you are incredible!
- Thread starter
- #7
Ok as it stands now:
Played witht the timing, when I hooked up the gun at 950 rpm like the sticker under he hood said without the advance hooked up I had about 15 degrees of advance when i was only suposed to have 5, adjusted the distributor, then it wouldnt idle, fixed the idle and it still ran hot, changed the radiator cap, still hot, second new therstat (warenty thank you o'reilies) still hot, bought a new temperature guage... old temperature guage was reading 10 degrees hotter than my new one.
see in the morning going down the road how it does.
Played witht the timing, when I hooked up the gun at 950 rpm like the sticker under he hood said without the advance hooked up I had about 15 degrees of advance when i was only suposed to have 5, adjusted the distributor, then it wouldnt idle, fixed the idle and it still ran hot, changed the radiator cap, still hot, second new therstat (warenty thank you o'reilies) still hot, bought a new temperature guage... old temperature guage was reading 10 degrees hotter than my new one.
see in the morning going down the road how it does.
Good luck Josh. Hope you nailed it down.
Are you carb or fuel injected?
That would be carb, they didn't fuel inject the 22R until 86. He just put a weber on there not to long ago if I'm not mistaken.
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- #11
yep thats right, changed the Gage out and it is looking like where the temperature sender for the old gauge was mounted is what was making it look hotter than it actually was, instead of being in the thermostat housing, it was in the intake manifold right by where the mounting bolts are, only an inch or so separated from the head, I am guessing it was picking up extra heat from that. Only driven it about 4 miles since I put the new gauge but it is looking better now.
Yea I need to reread all what is going on with your engine but I'm at work , so I'm really not suppose to be on the internet. By buddy has an 1985 extra cab solid axle that came fron the factory with EFI.His brother has an 1986 extra cab that is carb.
So if you needed a truck to compare yours to I can talk with him.
So if you needed a truck to compare yours to I can talk with him.
Thats different. I had a 86 EFI Turbo with IFS and my brother a 85 2BBL solid axle I thought that was always the cut off between the EFI and Carb but it appears they mixed things up through those years. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Toyota_Hilux
- Thread starter
- #14
Well, talked to my mom and she said there was a package for me today. All my parts to put the Mechanical fan back on my 4runner are in and I am crossing my fingers that it will draw enough air to keep the rig cool. Might move the electric fan to the front of the radiator, not sure how much that would help but it cant hurt, Right?
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Bodean
Hot Damn
Does the elec. fan push or pull? You might not be able to move it.
Later,
Later,
- Thread starter
- #16
It is an el' cheepo from Autozone. it is made to blow through the radiator, but in the instructions they showed you how to rewire it for draw through, the fan is also made to be removed and turned around in the housing so that it will bite in either direction.
Most of them are universal you can wire to push or pull to your needs just by reversing the polarity.
- Thread starter
- #18
I FOUND MY PROBLEM FINALLY!!!!!!
The waterpump was going bad slowly, at Idle it pushes no water at all, and at about 2500 rpm it barely pushes any either but it must have been enough to keep the engine coolish.
Going get a water pump right now I will check back with yall in about 4 hours and let you know if it worked or not.
The waterpump was going bad slowly, at Idle it pushes no water at all, and at about 2500 rpm it barely pushes any either but it must have been enough to keep the engine coolish.
Going get a water pump right now I will check back with yall in about 4 hours and let you know if it worked or not.
Sweet... good luck. As long as your problem is not the nut b/w the seat and the steering wheel. 
me
me
I FOUND MY PROBLEM FINALLY!!!!!!
The waterpump was going bad slowly, at Idle it pushes no water at all, and at about 2500 rpm it barely pushes any either but it must have been enough to keep the engine coolish.
Going get a water pump right now I will check back with yall in about 4 hours and let you know if it worked or not.
Thats a job, good luck with it. Do you have to take off the timing cover off? It's been a while but I remember changing mine when I replaced the chain, gears, and guides just because I was in there. After the first time I never for got about removing the bolts on the front of the oil pan that hold the bottom of that cover.