Axle Swap Procedure Advice (safety)

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Joined
Jun 27, 2020
Threads
10
Messages
148
Location
Redding, ca
Good day to everyone,

I am getting ready to swap my unlocked axles for two complete OE electric locking axles. I have accumulated all of the necessary parts and as soon as my springs and shocks come in from Trail Tailor I am going to hit the launch button. I have new brake lines to install, breathers/vents, rotors, pads, you name it, I have probably got it on hand to install on the Locked axles.

I would like to know if any of you have any words of wisdom regarding a DIY, in your driveway axle swap. I am going to swap the rear axle first. I plan on getting under it and removing brake lines, parking brake cable, panhard bar, ABS wiring, and driveline before putting a jack under it.

I am particularly concerned about safety. I will be working alone mostly and am fearful of having my rig drop on any part of my body. I have some chocks for the tires. I have a pair of 12 ton jack stands to put under the frame and may lay my tired down under the rear bumper or something just in case it falls (My plan is to remove the axle from the side, maybe by dropping it on some carpet and pulling it out that way.

Should I have my center diff locked or in low gear to provide insurance my front tires wont roll even a little bit? Not sure, but want to be.

Thanks for any help.
 
A lift. :)

If you're going to do it one axle at a time, I'd have at least four beefy wheel chocks, positioned front and rear of the axle you aren't removing at the moment. Your 12 ton jack stands will come in handy, and it can never hurt to toss tires underneath the frame. I'd probably lock the center diff, not sure it is needed, but I can't see any downside.

Why not leave the wheels on and roll the assemblies out fore and aft?

Keep a cell phone in your pocket, or wear a smartwatch with phone numbers of people nearby (file a flight plan: let someone know you will be working on the rig, just in case), 911, and the nearest trauma center on speed dial. Better to have it and not need it.
 
Why not leave the wheels on and roll the assemblies out fore and aft?

After having done axle swaps on FJ60s this is what I've done, but use tireless wheels. If the tires are left on the axle assemblies you have to jack up the front or rear very high, but with wheel only on the axles you can go to a, IMO, lower and safer jack height to clear the underside of the Cruiser.
 
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