Audio for the non-audiophile (need door speaker advice)

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cbbr

cbbr

SILVER Star
10 Year 15 Year
Joined
Feb 14, 2009
Threads
36
Messages
228
Location
In a Swamp - Baton Rouge
My 2000 has an aftermarket head unit, but appears to still be running the stock amp. All four door speakers are blown and I removed the stock sub a while back. I would like to replace the door speakers, but have no idea what fits. So what will fit in the doors and what wattage/resistance should I be looking for?
 
Factory in the 2000 in the front is 6.5" woofers in the lower door panel and separate tweeters (built-in crossover) in the sail panel at the top corner. 6.5" 2-way speakers in the rear doors.

45W RMS 4 ohm I think is common for aftermarket. Been researching some of this lately as I'm in the middle of replacing the two rear 4" woofers with a single 6.75".
 
cbbr said:
Doing the fronts too?
Click to expand...
Mine already had Rockford Fosgate 3-ways in front and rear door and aftermarket head unit from prior owner. Still powered with factory amp.

Going with the the Kicker 48CWRT672 (2 ohm) wired in series so the amp sees 4 ohm. Looking at 5-channel amps to replace the stocker.
 
Choose any 4-ohm speaker (plus the wiring for it) that you want, and I can make bespoke adapters for it. Since you are not an audiophile, you can go down to 5 1/4" all around. Choose speakers with a QTS value greater than 0.5 but less than 1.0.
 
@Berkut10r - I'm ultimately going to upgrade to a DSP amp and likely go headless (per your suggestion in a different thread), but while I spend money elsewhere on the truck, I've got blown woofers in front doors and the sub is blown so I'd like to address them immediately. I bought the foam repair kit, but would you suggest a good replacement woofer that will install cleanly with your adapter and will elevate performance over the ML drivers while remaining compatible with the amp? If easier, I can contact you directly offline.
 
srs148 said:
@Berkut10r - I'm ultimately going to upgrade to a DSP amp and likely go headless (per your suggestion in a different thread), but while I spend money elsewhere on the truck, I've got blown woofers in front doors and the sub is blown so I'd like to address them immediately. I bought the foam repair kit, but would you suggest a good replacement woofer that will install cleanly with your adapter and will elevate performance over the ML drivers while remaining compatible with the amp? If it's easier, I can contact you directly offline.
Click to expand...
No, no, this is a great question; others should see this as well. From my perspective, refoaming is on par with buying NAPA CV joints vs OEM; you will revisit this issue in the near future. This is one of the rare instances where going aftermarket is the best-case scenario; OEM just can't stack up to, say, Alpine units. If you are going with a nice DSP amp, buy the best gear you can afford; DSP (and tuning) plus the install are more important than speakers/woofers. Don't be afraid of sites like Masori.de or RGSound, buying from Europe will save a TON of money. Crutchfield sells good wiring for a stout price; that is about it.
An example of pricing differences:
vs
masori.de

Focal Utopia M TBM Dome Tweeter | Buy now

Focal Utopia M TBM | 20 W | 95 dB sensitivity | 4 Ohm | Beryllium M-shape | Buy Focal Utopia M TBM Dome Tweeter online
masori.de masori.de
 
Berkut10r said:
No, no, this is a great question; others should see this as well. From my perspective, refoaming is on par with buying NAPA CV joints vs OEM; you will revisit this issue in the near future. This is one of the rare instances where going aftermarket is the best-case scenario; OEM just can't stack up to, say, Alpine units. If you are going with a nice DSP amp, buy the best gear you can afford; DSP (and tuning) plus the install are more important than speakers/woofers. Don't be afraid of sites like Masori.de or RGSound, buying from Europe will save a TON of money. Crutchfield sells good wiring for a stout price; that is about it.
An example of pricing differences:
vs
masori.de

Focal Utopia M TBM Dome Tweeter | Buy now

Focal Utopia M TBM | 20 W | 95 dB sensitivity | 4 Ohm | Beryllium M-shape | Buy Focal Utopia M TBM Dome Tweeter online
masori.de masori.de
Click to expand...
Wow, huge price difference in purchasing abroad vs via Crutichfield (though I never buy through CF). I have no concerns with buying abroad other than the tariffs (10-15% as of late vs 0% before last year).

I've read a lot of your posts and you always provide solid advice, so I knew you'd come through again on this. I agree with you that factory drivers are often 'okay' but rarely great. I replaced the stock drivers and tweeters in my last BMW and that made a nice improvement, but as you said, the big difference came when I upgraded to a DSP amp (Audiotec-Fischer Match Up 8).

Have you found a drop-in replacement for the sub driver? I'd personally rather just disconnect it and use a compact sealed enclosure, but then Ill be getting into needing to power it which opens the amplification can of worms sooner than I'd like to. Or can the ML amp power a sub in a sealed enclosure?

My initial thought based on your advice was to go headless, but for the sake of my family, I think I'd like to have CarPlay capabilities. To that end, I came across a thread of someone who ran the output of his Teyes headunit to the optical Input of his DSP amp (an Alpine Omega 8) with excellent results, so I'm now considering either going the Teyes route to retain AC controls and a nice integrated look OR waiting till the hardware HVAC control module is available and then getting with a floating 10" screen from one of the reputible headunit manufacturers (though the Teyes still wins on how 'factory' it looks in the dash).

I'll contact you offline regarding the adapters, both for drivers as well as for the tweeters.
 
cbbr said:
My 2000 has an aftermarket head unit, but appears to still be running the stock amp. All four door speakers are blown and I removed the stock sub a while back. I would like to replace the door speakers, but have no idea what fits. So what will fit in the doors and what wattage/resistance should I be looking for?
Click to expand...
Have a 2000 also. JVC 690 Head unit, Kenwood 802-5 5 channel amp, to power Naks in front, JL audio c2 5.25in. Rear.
Deleted internal sub.. Have Kenwood 10in.
Sub in sealed enclosure with additional Butyl mats throughout and foam sound control in doors. Door speaker baskets are 2 pc. Inner
piece is not used. Plug and play.. Interior was stripped to front seats. Head and amp was done by Audio company.. Ken/802-5 came
out of my 05 Tundra and Sub woofer..
4-OHMS Speakers was used.. Td
 
cbbr said:
My 2000 has an aftermarket head unit, but appears to still be running the stock amp. All four door speakers are blown and I removed the stock sub a while back. I would like to replace the door speakers, but have no idea what fits. So what will fit in the doors and what wattage/resistance should I be looking for?
Click to expand...
Correction 6.5in.speaker, wrong vehicle quoted.. sorry m old..
 
srs148 said:
Wow, huge price difference in purchasing abroad vs via Crutichfield (though I never buy through CF). I have no concerns with buying abroad other than the tariffs (10-15% as of late vs 0% before last year).

I've read a lot of your posts and you always provide solid advice, so I knew you'd come through again on this. I agree with you that factory drivers are often 'okay' but rarely great. I replaced the stock drivers and tweeters in my last BMW and that made a nice improvement, but as you said, the big difference came when I upgraded to a DSP amp (Audiotec-Fischer Match Up 8).

Have you found a drop-in replacement for the sub driver? I'd personally rather just disconnect it and use a compact sealed enclosure, but then Ill be getting into needing to power it which opens the amplification can of worms sooner than I'd like to. Or can the ML amp power a sub in a sealed enclosure?

My initial thought based on your advice was to go headless, but for the sake of my family, I think I'd like to have CarPlay capabilities. To that end, I came across a thread of someone who ran the output of his Teyes headunit to the optical Input of his DSP amp (an Alpine Omega 8) with excellent results, so I'm now considering either going the Teyes route to retain AC controls and a nice integrated look OR waiting till the hardware HVAC control module is available and then getting with a floating 10" screen from one of the reputible headunit manufacturers (though the Teyes still wins on how 'factory' it looks in the dash).

I'll contact you offline regarding the adapters, both for drivers as well as for the tweeters.
Click to expand...
I am sorry; for some odd reason, I thought that I answered you. So the price difference is soooo vast that the tariffs still make it cheaper by a mile. I was an Audison/Morel dealer until last year; my dealer pricing was a tad more than retail pricing in Europe on just about every component. I wish Audiotec cared about Japanese cars; their products are superb throughout their range.

Recently, I had a customer put a CDT HD midwoofer (it sweeps down to 30 Hz) back there; he hasn't contacted me with negative feedback, so it must have worked out. Any competent shop can scan OEM sub enclosure and either make you one from MDF or print one, place something like Focal 5KM in it and forever enjoy it. The OEM enclosure and the amp are weak links if you want to feel (and not just hear) the bass.
 
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