Attempting to level the lean.

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Feb 4, 2015
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2015 LC leans + 1" down on the left (drivers)side measured at both the front & rear wheel wells. Loosened screws 3 turns then backed up on a chunk of 4X4 under right rear tire(high side). Tightened screws and then drove off wood. No change. BTW, KDSS screws were tight, but no rust.

Tried another recommendation - did the KDSS 3 turn drill , but this time stood on the side steps and rocked the truck as much as I could. Tightened screws -0- change.

Thought about loosening the screws 3 turns and going for a short drive and re-tighten screws....have not done that.

Any other suggestions?

THX!
 
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try the kdss turn deal and then jack one side of the rear axle up, cycle it a few times. That Should work out the variances. @MScruiser started a thread about this very ordeal. Its in the FAQ section, if You havent seen it yet.
Good
Luck
 
Explain "cycle".

I did see MSCRUISER thread in a search - I'll check the FAQ too....THX
 
I just went through this exercise on my 2010, same symptoms, about a 1” lean to the drivers side. Loosened the KDSS valves 3 turns, and drove around the neighborhood slowly with some sharp right / left steering motions. Pulled into the garage with BOTH passenger (high) side tires on blocks, and let it sit for a bit. Tightened up the KDSS valves and pulled off of the blocks. Measuring 1/8-1/4” difference now. I did this a couple of weeks ago and seems to be holding.
 
Explain "cycle".

I did see MSCRUISER thread in a search - I'll check the FAQ too....THX

Cycle usually means to take it through it’s full range of compression and extension. So full droop...to fully stuffed into the wheel well.
 
Cycle - make the suspension go Up And down. Right side up / left side down. Each side moves Independant from the other side.
 
One other suggestion that might help over the long haul:

If you park on a slant...or your driveway isn’t level...try parking 180 degrees for a while.
 
Thanks all for the advice everyone....the sun is just coming up
so I can see what I'm doing.
 
It’s probably worthwhile to consider if a lean is caused by the KDSS system, or if it’s just a tendency due a weaker spring in the suspension.

I would attribute most leans to the latter. At which point, it’s not worthwhile to mess with the KDSS system. KDSS is a hydro/mechanical sway bar. It won’t typically impart leaning forces itself as its general function is to level the ride. Unless one is lifting the suspension, then yes, there’s protocol to follow to reset it’s neutral point. I believe any further lean overtime, is due to the rest of the suspension imparting its posture into the KDSS. Making KDSS counter that posture, is misdirected and will only help for a duration.

Fuel weight is probably worth considering. The tank is offset and on the passenger side. Weight can swing almost 150lbs to/from that side depending on fuel level.

4x4’s leaning is not a new thing. When there is tall and soft springs involved, most SUVs will take a set one way or another. Take a look at any SUV/truck forum and this will be a very relevant topic. Overtime, that side will further droop as more weight is transferred to the lower side springs. Something < ¾” isn’t really a concern. KDSS doesn’t change this.

During the days of torsion bars, it was easy to re-level the ride with a few cranks.

Trim packers have been around for as long as 4x4s to address this very thing. Adding 5/10/15/20mm trim packers to the lower side rear spring is the real solution IMO. 30 minute operation.

If one has coilovers at the front, that’s another great tool to level.
 
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...but...but ...but ....the sag has been there since day 1 (no weak springs - brand new LC) and I've lived with it. Finally enough became
enough and decided to attack after just being on the sidelines as a KDSS mind reader.

That said I've now tried all the suggestions and nothing changed.

I'm a frustrated "leaner"
 
No one is really knows or is wondering which way it leans. Well, perhaps the wife does. :smokin:
 
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It’s probably worthwhile to consider if a lean is caused by the KDSS system, or if it’s just a tendency due a weaker spring in the suspension.

I would attribute most leans to the latter. At which point, it’s not worthwhile to mess with the KDSS system. KDSS is a hydro/mechanical sway bar. It won’t typically impart leaning forces itself as its general function is to level the ride. Unless one is lifting the suspension, then yes, there’s protocol to follow to reset it’s neutral point. I believe any further lean overtime, is due to the rest of the suspension imparting its posture into the KDSS. Making KDSS counter that posture, is misdirected and will only help for a duration.

Fuel weight is probably worth considering. The tank is offset and on the passenger side. Weight can swing almost 150lbs to/from that side depending on fuel level.

4x4’s leaning is not a new thing. When there is tall and soft springs involved, most SUVs will take a set one way or another. Take a look at any SUV/truck forum and this will be a very relevant topic. Overtime, that side will further droop as more weight is transferred to the lower side springs. Something < ¾” isn’t really a concern. KDSS doesn’t change this.

During the days of torsion bars, it was easy to re-level the ride with a few cranks.

Trim packers have been around for as long as 4x4s to address this very thing. Adding 5/10/15/20mm trim packers to the lower side rear spring is the real solution IMO. 30 minute operation.

If one has coilovers at the front, that’s another great tool to level.

Based on my cruiser lean experience I’d have to agree with you - I’ve tried several of the KDSS tricks without any real improvement and think the suspension on my 2016 cruiser just leans left (toward the driver’s side). The only way I could improve it was to dramatically overcorrect the lean with a jack, close the valves in that position, then let the truck down. The lean was corrected and even a little high on the drivers side, but the ride felt noticeably stiff - almost as if the KDSS was set to an “active” position. I ultimately decided that comfort was more important than the lean, so I went back to “neutral” by opening valves on level ground, shaking the truck back and forth, letting it sit for a little while and closing the valves. My lean is about 3/4”, I believe Toyota calls 1/2” within normal limits so I’m just outside of that but it’s not awful. Kinda quit worrying about it as I’ll be replacing the stock suspension with an aftermarket one next month.

I think the taller rear passenger coil overcorrects for the gas tank weight with most setups, I’m planning to add a 10 mm OME trim packer just on the driver’s side rear coil when I install my Tough Dog kit and hope to end up pretty level in the rear. The front coil overs are identical so hopefully there won’t be any lean up front - we’ll see!

Maybe I’m just missing something, I’ll keep an eye on this thread to see if any new knowledge arises!
 
Darned, I just noticed my 17 LC with only 10K on the clock is leaning on the driver side by 1”, too.
If I install air bags, which I want to do anyway as we tow a boat, would running with the right rear airbag slightly inflated correct that? would that be an appropriate remedy?

EDIT: I think I’ll try the KDSS re-leveling trick, first:
Cruiser Lean: "You've been doing it all wrong. Yes you"


 
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