ARB plumbing idea

[sherwood]

The front locker is ordered and I'm sitting on my thumbs waiting for it and the bearings and knuckle kits, etc., to arrive. Everything's been cleaned and painted.

My air plumbing system is a little out of the ordinary..... kinda' like me. 'Haven't seen anyone else doing it quite this way, so thought it worth posting. It has worked quite well in the rear locker for over a year, and the air leakage is next to nil.

The fittings are rated at 0 - 150F. I imagine that's conservative. 'Never seen it below 16 degrees here...... and it worked fine at that temp..... YTMV. IIRC, the hose I'm using is good to 300#.

The beauty of this system (not to mention how damned easy to plumb) is that if you have a damaged line.... or a damaged solenoid or switch..... you can make a field repair in minutes.... or plumb around the solenoid direct to the locker, if that's what's needed to keep going. I'd say, I could bypass the solenoid in less than two minutes. Cut a line ??? Shouldn't take five minutes to repair/replace. I guess time and trail testing will eventually point out the weaknesses, if any.

http://sparkgap.homestead.com/OnBoardAir.html

John Sherwood '79 FJ-40
Charlotte, NC TLCA Upstate Cruisers

 

[73lndcrsr]

I use those same fittings for my ARB system and I have had no trouble at all. I also use the bigger versions for the hose to my front bib for my external supply line.

 

[Desertdave]

Thanks

Very interesting ideas, and good documentation. I've seen ARB go through at least three styles of switches since I bought my first, and a couple different styles of solenoids, and so I really appreciate your sourcing links.

 

[calfj60]

John,

I am very impressed with you air line set up. No just one question, why did you not just go with some air switches and avoid the whole electrical issues??

Thansk Tim

 

[sherwood]

Air Switches

Hey Tim,

Great minds think alike !!!
I've been wondering the same thing....... for quite a while now.
In case anyone doesn't know.....
http://www.gulfcoastrovers.com/all/switch/

My excuses....
(1) $60 for a pair + shipping ... (and me financing a DIY RDB install right now)
(2) Have to route all that hose up under the dash... or wherever you mount the switches.
(3) No visual cue as to whether they are on or off (light bulb)
(4) All though it doesn't mean much.... no knowledge of how long they last or if they tend to leak after a while. (anyone have experience with these ? anyone aware if these are custom "home-made" of questionable quality control or used successfully elsewhere in industry ?)

'Neat thing would be to put the "safety" covers:
https://www.delcity.net/tstore/servlet/pagebuilder?frame=catalog_browse&parentid=669821&page=1
on them. I'm planning to put a separate switch w/safety cover in the panel for the +12V going to the ARB switches anyhow.

I agree with you..... they would sorta' simplify and reduce the failure points..... IF they are reliable..... and... clean up the rat's nest.

'Still pondering this question here Tim.

 

[calfj60]

John,

Thansk for the honest answer. I will hopefully be able to report on some of your questions. I plan to try and get my hands on a set of those switches this week if possible. Or maybe I will just build my own....I just know that I would prefer the simplest way to get the job done. No electricity for me. I never had any problems with the ARB set up in the two years that I ran it except the time I broke the front air line and pulled it out of the diff:-(

Well the other reasoning behind this newest mission is that when I took my 60 apart 4 years ago to do a motor swap I some how lost one of the solenoids:-( so gotta over come that problem somehow right??? And don't really want to go that way might as well make it better is my thinking. I will let you know how it goes...


Tim

 

[70chevfred]

i just install ann arb locker with the compressor. my questions is can you mount the compressor in ant position or does it have to be straight up?

 

[RHINO]

guys if its any consolation i had all the same fittings and switches (both kinds) on a perterbuilt i used to own. i also happen to know they have been in use for a loooong time. i think it will all be pretty reliable system in both electric and manual. i personally like the electric switch method because wire is so much easier than air line.
on a similar note, big rigs also use remote air switches, kinda cool, its a small air switch that in turn controls a big air valve, same as a relay with electrics.
if you want any ideas, suggestions or just want to pick my brain from a big rig perspective (air everything) i am more than happy to chat.

P.S. sherwood, wanted to compliment the very sano install, looks good man.

 

[cruiseroutfit]

I noticed some excellent ARB setups at Supercrawl III this week. Factory Tubular Motorsports (SLC, Utah) had the best aftermarket one IMHO...

It ran off of a small CO2 tank, through a regulator (100psi) and then to a set of "air" switch's... no electronics involved. Pretty damn cool. I snapped a couple pics of the setup, I will post them ASAP

 

[ian]

Both the poly and nylon tubing are rated well over 500PSI. I used the nylon junk on my paintball gun (800PSI from supply). The fittings were Microlok.

Any reason why you didn't use one branch tee and 3 male elbows? Could eliminate the composite union on the wheel well and all four brass elbows. Fewer fittings == fewer places to develop leaks. My guess would be availability . I spent months trying to source a single SS run tee. That being said, what's your source for all of this stuff?

Also, when doing a lot of pneumatic/hydraulic plumbing that requires sealed threads, check out Loctite 545. I bought a bottle a few years ago and it has made my life a lot easier.. Teflon tape and that white thread sealer gunk is a PITA. The only downside to the Loctite is you have to let it cure for 24 hours. I think Prestolok come with sealant on them.. any problems? The rust colored sealant is crap and I always wire brush it off.

 

[sherwood]

Any reason why you didn't use one branch tee and 3 male elbows?

Cause I'm not a plumber and have to stop and look all these terms up
'Edjikate me... According to what I see in the book, the diff between a branch tee and "Y" union (what I used) is only in the shape.. and the direction the lines depart. They (Parker) do not have a "branch tee" with the quick disconnects on all three ports. They do have "swivel branch tee's" with three disconnects... but I figured the swivel might be a leak point down the road, so went with the "Y" union, which gave me the directions I needed to travel. Not real sure I follow you here.

As for the "elbows", Parker only has one non-swivel elbow with the 1/4" hose connector and male 1/8" NPT that goes into the solenoid pack. Yup, you are correct about reducing the number of "leak points", but they did not have that one in stock at the time I went to my local "stockist" (love that Brit term). Also, from their drawings, I gather that their elbow (W369PLS Compact Elbow) would lie even closer to the body of the solenoid pack and it's hard enough, as is, to get your paws in their to connect/disconnect lines as is with my HomoDespot elbow.

About the elbow on the air tank, I needed to turn the hose there so as not to exceed the hose's bend radius. I'm sure, if I stare long enough at it, I'll come up with some way to reduce fittings/leaks. Any suggestions are always welcomed.

That being said, what's your source for all of this stuff?

As per my website, they have a complete PDF of the fittings (with other interesting info) at:
http://www.parker.com/pneumatic/cat/english/0600P7-Prestolok.pdf

If you go to their home page, they have dealer listings. I use Livingston an Haven Connectors in Charlotte, NC
http://www.lhtech.com/connectors.htm

Also, their pre-coated sealant, which they describe as "vinyl" is white... not sure just what it is. Like you said, I brush their stuff off and put on my Teflon paste. I have a lot of experience with using good teflon paste in medical sterilizer plumbing.... 27+lbs of 270+ degree saturated steam. Harsh environment. Never had a problem with it there. Yes teflon paste is nasty. I just wipe the excess off once the fittings are tightend and tested. Only have to do it once, if done right. Good to go. Only time I'll ever use the tape is on temporary booty fabbing a seriously loose fitting.

john

 

[ian]

You would run your supply line through a branch tee (W172PL) which is threaded into the "front valve".. the line would then continue to an elbow threaded into the "rear valve". The branch tee has one 1/8" NPT and two disconnects.

Swivel connectors are generally safe to use.. we use them on our paintball guns (which are generally abused) @ 600-700 PSI and I've yet to blow one. Keep in mind, they're not engineered for continuous duty.. they should be installed, adjusted, and left alone. Any installation that results in regular swivel rotation will result in seal failure. However, like you, I try to avoid using swivel fittings unless they serve a purpose.