ARB lockers 101

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PabloVTA

beside La Caja China
SILVER Star
Joined
Sep 30, 2005
Threads
155
Messages
2,447
Location
Ventura Ca. USA
School me on Lockers would ya?

I'm too lazy to search and find a bazillion hits for ARB, but I need lockers for my '94 and want to spend my stimulus check on something for the rig.

I'm planning on new bearings everywhere, seals and doubling up on the airlines is something i've seen for abrasion. basically, if you were to do it again(for those of you with them) what would your shopping list be?

oh, and if you have any for sale, hook me up! Basically, I wanna do Rubithon next year, and would like to have these in by this summer. I'm not DD with the rig, so a tear down is possible if it has to sit for a week.

anybody have better dealers for parts? I'm open for suggestions.
 
Paul, have you asked Alvarob yet? I know he has aftermarket lockers (Im pretty sure they are ARBs). Good luck.
 
What exactly do you want to know? I ran ARB air lockers front and rear on my last rig. They worked way faster than the cruiser e-locker. I loved them. Never had a problem, worked flawless in "most" cases. If i had to re-gear the cruiser and i was already in there with the money.. i'd swap my e-lockers out for them. Doubling up air lines? How bout just running steel braided air lines? Call it done. If i were to do it again, i'd totally get the new compressor, slees air fitting piece, ask ARB for extra solenoids (cause they take a dump every so often) and run the steel braded air lines. The ARB should come with new carrier bearings since it replaces the entire unit.
 
well, do I need a compressor just to switch them on and off, or contantly runnning?
would the Tsunami I have work?

when you buy the front locker, does it come with enough air hose, of just a stub that you need to plumb to?

same with the rear, or do they both come with plenty of hose ?

do I have to do anything special in regards to running power to them? I don't want this to turn into a second battery, fuse boxes all over the place and relay tree to make it work.

pardon the noob questions guys, never had a rig with lockers before, I just drive a Landcruiser and leave the traction to the skinny pedal.

p.s. KI6LBB, were you on ham last night around 7:30? thought I heard ya.
 
Biff, who used to be a regular here had ARB's installed on his rig. They do work faster than OEM and he liked them.
 
well, do I need a compressor just to switch them on and off, or contantly runnning?
would the Tsunami I have work?

when you buy the front locker, does it come with enough air hose, of just a stub that you need to plumb to?

same with the rear, or do they both come with plenty of hose ?

do I have to do anything special in regards to running power to them? I don't want this to turn into a second battery, fuse boxes all over the place and relay tree to make it work.

pardon the noob questions guys, never had a rig with lockers before, I just drive a Landcruiser and leave the traction to the skinny pedal.

p.s. KI6LBB, were you on ham last night around 7:30? thought I heard ya.

The compressor only cycles when you kick the locker on, if you have a tank with your compressor, this happens much less. I dont know anything about your Tsunami... but if i remember correctly, the ARB air locker needs to have at least 110 lbs to actuate. That's all you would need.

Yes, when you buy the locker it comes with a roll of blue hose. Probably enough to do a rear locker in a limo and have the compressor upfront. Yes each locker comes with the same amount of hose, fittings, relays etc for each axle, doesn't matter where its located in a vehicle (the axle - frnt or rear).

All the power you need is to have your switches wired like a normal switch. Like offroad lights. You just need to be able to hit a switch for the compressor and to each locker (3 switches). Super simple. Some guys even use Air switches that have no electrical and are super reliable. I never researched that route. The ARB compressor comes with its own relay. Each locker will come with its own relay. It's a complete package. No extra trees, fuse boxes etc.

Nope, how weird. Probably someone else with a callsign that sounded like mine. I've almost heard that before talking to people.

One last thing, are you installing the ARB yourself or having a diff shop do it? Because i know on my rig the axle has to be tapped for the brass air fitting and IMHO i would let a professional do it. I had my ARB installed when i went from 3.07's to 4.56's R&P. Im not familiar with the way the ARB for the yota axle installs.

Hope this helps, let me know if you need any other information.
 
SO, ARB's make life much easier and if you get them in before Rubithon this year you should be able to make it through depending on your tire size. If you are going to do lockers I would also do gears since you're already in the neighborhood and doing axle work.

All you need for ARB lockers are:
- lockers and the install kit (get the solid crush sleve)
- Source for Air (either a compressor, or even CO2 tank will work) I run an ARB. comp.
- a place to let the truck sit for when the gears are pulled
- a littld patience for the work and a strong back the diffs are rather heavy, much easier with two pple.
- there is one line from each locker to the air source (the lines are provided)
- powe need only be provided to the compressor and if you get the mini arb it is a 20min job wiring it all together and getting her running.

Adding ARB's was one of if not thee best upgrade next to bigger tires.

Send any questions my way and if you need a shop to do the work I had everything installed at 4x4doctor in Burbank. I'd probably do most of it myself if I did the job today. :beer:

well, do I need a compressor just to switch them on and off, or contantly runnning?
would the Tsunami I have work?

when you buy the front locker, does it come with enough air hose, of just a stub that you need to plumb to?

same with the rear, or do they both come with plenty of hose ?

do I have to do anything special in regards to running power to them? I don't want this to turn into a second battery, fuse boxes all over the place and relay tree to make it work.

pardon the noob questions guys, never had a rig with lockers before, I just drive a Landcruiser and leave the traction to the skinny pedal.

p.s. KI6LBB, were you on ham last night around 7:30? thought I heard ya.
 
good info guys, thanks.

warning: noob question again...
does the compressor constantly run? or just gets up to 110PSI for the actuation and then off for the whole time until I need to turn them off?

I doubt the Tsunami could get up to 110 without crappin out. Should I mount the ARB compressor in the engine bay? Can I use it for tires as well as lockers?

I have 33's now, will like to go to 35's next year since I gashed up the side walls pretty good in Joshua Tree. Without getting into the whole 4.88's argument, you all think I should just bite the bullet and go with new inners and all the races and bearings while I'm doing the lockers?

I was hoping to do it myself. I've replaced motors before, but never worked on axles.
Tapping things is what I do all day, how difficult is that for this application, and is there a pdf of the install from ARB?

I want to put the switches up on the left side of the dash board, wehre the OEM locker switch should be as well, if I buy that OEM switch, can it be wired to work with the ARB's?
then just use one slot for the compressor switch?

any advice about mounting the compressor underneath on my MT sliders? it has a spot for that, but I don't want it caked up with crud. If I fabbed up a box for it, it'd prolly get too hot right? If I were to use it for tires, I'd have to plumb a line to a manifold somewhere like the rear bumper area and then plumb all the lockers lines to there too then huh?
 
good info guys, thanks.

warning: noob question again...
does the compressor constantly run? or just gets up to 110PSI for the actuation and then off for the whole time until I need to turn them off?

I doubt the Tsunami could get up to 110 without crappin out. Should I mount the ARB compressor in the engine bay? Can I use it for tires as well as lockers?

I have 33's now, will like to go to 35's next year since I gashed up the side walls pretty good in Joshua Tree. Without getting into the whole 4.88's argument, you all think I should just bite the bullet and go with new inners and all the races and bearings while I'm doing the lockers?

I was hoping to do it myself. I've replaced motors before, but never worked on axles.
Tapping things is what I do all day, how difficult is that for this application, and is there a pdf of the install from ARB?

I want to put the switches up on the left side of the dash board, wehre the OEM locker switch should be as well, if I buy that OEM switch, can it be wired to work with the ARB's?
then just use one slot for the compressor switch?

any advice about mounting the compressor underneath on my MT sliders? it has a spot for that, but I don't want it caked up with crud. If I fabbed up a box for it, it'd prolly get too hot right? If I were to use it for tires, I'd have to plumb a line to a manifold somewhere like the rear bumper area and then plumb all the lockers lines to there too then huh?

Yes, It cycles on and off to keep pressure up. Depends on if you have air leaks or not. Lets say you had your lockers on and your on the trail, i'd say every 10 mins or so it will cycle on. If you engage and disengage your lockers a lot say rockcrawling so you can steer or take added stress off the drivetrain it will cycle obviously more.

Yes, engine bay is fine. That's where most people mount their's. That's where i mounted mine.

ARB should send very detailed instructions, they aren't a fly by night company. They also WILL answer your call if you have any questions for them about the install.

Yes i would re-gear if you're there.

Yes you can and many have wired the OEM e-locker switch to work. There's writeups somewhere on this board regardind that.

I wouldn't mount the compressor anywhere it's going to pick up mud or debrees. I would keep it in a clean place that you can easily access. Outside the cab also, unless you want to hear it cycle in your cab. Fire wall would be a fine place i would think.

If you get the air manifold you can mount the lockers separate from the tank. If you don't then yes, the air solenoids will have to mount on the tank body.

Here's a shot of my oldschool ARB compressor... circa 2001.
 
sweet.

gear install

anyone got a refferal to a gear shop in SoCal? That Zuk web site just schooled me, looks like a cool guy, but he's all the way over in Arizona.
 
sweet.

gear install

anyone got a refferal to a gear shop in SoCal? That Zuk web site just schooled me, looks like a cool guy, but he's all the way over in Arizona.

I had mine doen at 4x Doctor in Burbank. They're price was reasonable and it was the closest place with a good rep. took them about a week, which was a little long in my opinion, so I would schedule with them in advance and let them know that you NEED them by a certain time.
 
I had mine doen at 4x Doctor in Burbank. They're price was reasonable and it was the closest place with a good rep. took them about a week, which was a little long in my opinion, so I would schedule with them in advance and let them know that you NEED them by a certain time.

Sam,
Would you recommend 4x Doctor for performing my regear? Since they're in Burbank it would be the easiest place to take my diffs.

Anyone else use 4x Doctor? Any negatives? If not, I'll give them a call and talk to them just wanted to check on feedback from here first.
 
Hey all, I'm a lurker here but I don't think I've posted here. Greetings!

I think most of your questions have been asnwered but just to add a little more detail...

I wired the OEM switch to activate my ARB's and yes it's easy (especially if you work for edison - was that you that left a :flipoff2: on my truck?). You can even have your dash lights come on accordingly by adding a couple relays in your passenger side kick panel. A nice OEM touch to a non OEM install. More details are on the forum somehwere. Then you'll just need an on off switch for the compressor.

Slee makes a nice bracket to mount an arb compressor in your engine bay near the power steering booster. It's kind of a bear (hand manipulation and the right tool for the job come to mind) to install but once it's in you're set. He also has an air manifold to distribute the air.

You can also get the solenoids from cruiseroutfitters which reminds me I'd like to get a couple replacements because mine look like they're ready to let go...
 
All the tech stuff seems to be covered - 4x Doctor is awesome, as is TLC in Van Nuys (their service department is a little slow now, so you'd likely get right in). I've worked with both companies over the years - no issues.

Cruiser outfitters should have everything you need at a good price. you could also get the parts from either of the install shops for a bit more, but that may be good piece of mind for having it all done from the same place.

one other thing, I seem to remember ARB recommending to ONLY use their plastic lines for some reason or another. I can't remember hearing anyone having problems with their lines unless it was an install error. Once they're installed properly, you should be golden.
 
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