anyone ever swap an oil pump? (1 Viewer)

[Pick]

A friend and I both needed timing belts so we decide to do them together. We started his and got it finished, then started mine. As I was bolting the tensioner bearing bolt (the one with the 10mm hex head) back in... it stripped out. It bolts into the oil pump. I ordered an Aisin oil pump but the more I look at it, the more I wonder if this is beyond my shade tree skills.

'06 LX 195k

Need:
1. Encouragement... "you can do this"
-or-
2. Push me off the edge and I'll have it towed in and finished


In reading the FSM for oil pump replacement, it states that the oil pan has to come off. I just can't see if the whole oil pan can drop with the engine in place. Anyone ever do it? Tips/tricks?? Or give up???

Red Circle for attention:

Thanks MUD, I REALLY appreciate it!!

 

[Pick]

My MUD search wasn't working; was able to find this thread through the google:

Can you remove the V8 oil pump without pulling the motor?

Doing the timing belt, tensioners, water pump and seals and I discovered a bad leak from around the oil pump/crank seal area. Impossible to tell which one. I’ve already pulled the bolts from the oil pump and cracked it off the block. Couldn’t figure why it wasn’t coming all the way off so...

forum.ih8mud.com

Ooof, not what I wanted to hear... Would a helicoil be a horrible idea??

 

[Pick]

duplicate post

 

[J1000]

I assume you snapped one of the small 10mm hex head bolts? If so then this EZ Lok kit should work: Amazon.com: E-Z Lok Externally Threaded Insert, 303 Stainless Steel, M6-1.0 Internal Threads, M10x1.5 External Threads, 10.49mm Length, Made in US (Pack of 5): Industrial & Scientific

EZ Loks are just that, EZ. Otherwise maybe you can undo the motor mounts and lift the motor slightly? No clue personally but I have lots of experience with EZ Loks and never had an issue.

 

[Pick]

It's this part here (red circle); threads into the oil pump (red circle above)

 

[JunkCrzr89]

Front of pan definitely has to at least be cracked loose, given 4 of the front pan bolts thread into the bottom of oil pump, which also serves as the front pan mating surface. However, I don’t think you need to pull the engine out to do this even tho the FSM says you do.
You won’t be able to jack engine up from bottom because that’s typically done by jacking on the pan. What you could do is get an engine hoist (can rent for cheap) and hook the chains to the hangers on the engine, then unbolt the engine mounts, and then pull engine up a couple of inches. That might give you enough room to get the pan out, swap oil pump, clean mating surface, and apply new FIPG.

 

[OEMGUY0720]

If the seal on oil pump mating area is seeping, do I need to replace the whole oil pump assembly? Or can I replace just the gasket (if it uses a gasket). Or maybe just take out the existing oil pump, clean the mating surface and re-seal it again with FIPG?

Pics for attention:

 

[JunkCrzr89]

If the seal on oil pump mating area is seeping, do I need to replace the whole oil pump assembly? Or can I replace just the gasket (if it uses a gasket). Or maybe just take out the existing oil pump, clean the mating surface and re-seal it again with FIPG?

Pics for attention:
View attachment 2464409View attachment 2464410View attachment 2464411

I’m not convinced that’s a leak at the oil pump to block mating surface. Second photo Looks like a leak from above and dripping down. First photo indicates Crank seal is probably leaking too tho.

 

[gatormark91]

The odds of that seal leaking from the pump housing sealing surface on both sides like that is, IMHO, about zero. Look higher on the engine for a leak. Cam seals, perhaps...

 

[OEMGUY0720]

The odds of that seal leaking from the pump housing sealing surface on both sides like that is, IMHO, about zero. Look higher on the engine for a leak. Cam seals, perhaps...

That’s noted, thank you. I have looked at the cams and cam dust shield covers and they seem to be dry..

So I guess at this point the culprit is the front crankshaft seal.

 

[MountaineerLC]

@OEMGUY0720 going back to my mentality as a Rover owner...if it ain't making a mess on the driveway it ain't leaking... Seriously though, check carefully for a leak someone above, bring if it ain't dripping I wouldn't be inclined to mess with the oil pump/pan.

Back to the question at hand...calling @2001LC ... helicoil vs new oil pump is a tough call.

 

[ramangain]

"Send it"

 

[OEMGUY0720]

Let me try to clean the area first hopefully it is just the crank seal. My hunch is the oil leak on the side as shown in actual picture above (engine block to oil pump assembly) is probably because of the radiator fan velocity that it pushes the leaking oil to both sides, upper and lower part of the oil pump assembly. I could be wrong, just trying to factor in what I learned in our fluid dynamics class more than a decade ago.

 

[ramangain]

Fluids obey gravity and make a mess. That's all I cared to remember.

 

[OEMGUY0720]

Update: It seems like aside from the front crankshaft seal, the dipstick o-ring seal at the base of the dipstick tube is also the source of the leak as suggested by @hickuptruck

Oil pump is now cleaned:

As always thank y’all for your inputs ️

 

[hickuptruck]

Thanks for the shoutout. You're already in there, what the harm in just another brand new crankseal while everything is out

 

[GiddyupJ]

Any update on what you ended up doing? Did you replace the oil pump housing or try helicoil the tensioner pulley bolt?

 

[Pick]

Helicoil FTW... torqued up perfectly and no issues months afterwards. The PO bought it back from me but I don't think he's had any issues either

 

[GiddyupJ]

Helicoil FTW... torqued up perfectly and no issues months afterwards. The PO bought it back from me but I don't think he's had any issues either

Thanks for the reply! Any tips on installing the helicoil in this spot for someone who's never done it before?

 

[Pick]

it was pretty simple... The helicoil kit was ~$70 (cheaper than the oil pump but only by $60 bucks) and had everything you need: drill bit, tap and a few coils. slow and steady won the race