Anybody know what this? Updated!

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the resistor....

forget it, change the plugs to 10.5 volt ones, and wire a wilson switch.

It(resistor) helps the lower voltage plugs that stock came with. 6 v.
 
So, what I gleamed from the diesel forum is: I could bypass all the timer/relay/resistor BS and install a 100A solenoid between the battery and bus bar triggered by a MO switch in the cab? Also, need to change the glowplugs to a 10.5V. Is the purpose of the Wilson switch to allow some sort of afterglow (sounds romantic, doesn't it) or is it just to be able to use factory wiring and relays?
GG
 
the wilson switch uses the stock wires and relay, but cuts out the timer and the afterglow. If your primary relay is working fine I would do the wilson trick.

search under greg's name in the diesel section for a description.

10.5 ngk plugs are listed in the parts thread. They are not too expensive.

You will be happy how nice she will start with fresh 10.5 plugs and a push button.

Oh on that note, try to only use a push button to activate them, a switch can be forgotten.
 
canucksafari said:
Can't answer your question but if it is afterglow your looking for I have some brown habeneros which I picked up in Cawston which give a real good afterglow.:grinpimp:
Click to expand...

mmmm... habeneros... makes me mouth water

brownbear said:
the wilson switch uses the stock wires and relay, but cuts out the timer and the afterglow. If your primary relay is working fine I would do the wilson trick.

search under greg's name in the diesel section for a description.

10.5 ngk plugs are listed in the parts thread. They are not too expensive.

You will be happy how nice she will start with fresh 10.5 plugs and a push button.

Oh on that note, try to only use a push button to activate them, a switch can be forgotten.
Click to expand...

Thanks Brownbear, I did search and got the info, MO switch (momentary on). I gathered from the thread that the idea was to use existing wiring and relay. Somehow I would find more securiy in hooking up a 100A solenoid and switch. I'm guessing I wouldn't need to glow the plugs to long, :whoops: depending on the ambient temp.
GG
 
Granite Grinder said:
Thanks Brownbear, I did search and got the info, MO switch (momentary on). I gathered from the thread that the idea was to use existing wiring and relay. Somehow I would find more securiy in hooking up a 100A solenoid and switch. I'm guessing I wouldn't need to glow the plugs to long, :whoops: depending on the ambient temp.
GG
Click to expand...

The stock primary relay is of good quality. It can be hard wired too. Just cut the wires at the connector to wire. Two small wires for the switch. Big wires from the battery thru fusible link to relay, then from relay to busbar.

The big wires should be fused thru the fusible link, the small wires should be fused from the fuse panel(use the glow fuse).

Take power from the fuse panel(glow fuse) go to a momentary switch(One guy had them for sale in the diesel classifieds). then to the relay small wires(field). The other side of the field goes to ground. For a light run a wire from the one side of the switch. Then when push the switch the light and relay turn on. The light only tells you the switch works.

You could wire the light from the busbar too, then you know you have power at the busbar.


You could easily wire a relay(100 amp) in the method I said above. But IMOP te stock relay is fine.
 
After my......car wash....incident I had to do the same as it turned out I managed to fry ALL of my plugs and the timer - very proud of that one. If you don't care about any of the wiring or the cute little light that will tell you that you are pressing a button - scrap all of it and just run directly to the big relay, I picked up the NGK plugs (10.5V) at under $15.00 each. Next mod is getting rid of the EDIC and using a mechanical control - too much electric crap in there.
 
Yup, that's route I'm taking, I like your idea of a doing away with the EDIC motor as well.
The KMS course (use this term lightly) was OK. Basically you get to play around on several different welders and material (no SS though). You also get to talk with a welder who works with these types of machines every day. In the end I thought it was worth it, the only other way I would get to play with a TIG would be to rent one. The instructor doesn't work for KMS so he isn't selling anything. The machine that was sweet to use is the Miller Dynasty 350. It accepts any voltage (other than 110v) and any phase without touching a setting. The key is to buying a machine is "pulse". Something like the Maxstar LX 200. DC machine will do aluminum, you need AC to do steel. I did steel with AC and it is very cool, no splatter. If I was doing a lot of steel welding I'd still prefer MIG for speed. The AC/DC machines are expensive.
HTH
GG
 
I would not lose the edic if it is working properly.

Too many variables of screwing it up with out the edic.

For example, rigging the arm properly, too much fuel in the over inject direction is bad. No overinjection for starting, no low oil px protection. Maybe more.


Granite you need to replace your fuel injector lines before the rot thru. Damm that's rusty. If the ends are still good make your own out of line. Use the ends. napa sells a double flare too for cheap.
 
Fantom said:
If you don't care about any of the wiring or the cute little light that will tell you that you are pressing a button - scrap all of it and just run directly to the big relay, I picked up the NGK plugs (10.5V) at under $15.00 each. Next mod is getting rid of the EDIC and using a mechanical control - too much electric crap in there.
Click to expand...

Hey Fantom,
Were did you acquire the glow plugs.
GG
 
brownbear said:
I would not lose the edic if it is working properly.

Too many variables of screwing it up with out the edic.

For example, rigging the arm properly, too much fuel in the over inject direction is bad. No overinjection for starting, no low oil px protection. Maybe more.

Ya, just dreamin' of losing the edic, don't think it will be happening soon. I wish I could get rid of the relay though, that's what I have trouble with.


Granite you need to replace your fuel injector lines before the rot thru. Damm that's rusty.

You should see the rest of the truck!!

If the ends are still good make your own out of line. Use the ends. napa sells a double flare too for cheap.
Click to expand...

This motor will be getting a makeover, including a turbo. Many years ago I bought a Snap-On flaring tool. It works great.

My other project is a turbo'd 2H (I know, I know... it's a 2H) but it will have a 5 spd (auto now)
 
there are lots of threads in the diesel section regarding edic problems. Search under thoses and see if your symptoms are the same.

NGK plugs sell at napa. Just get the part number from the part number thread in the diesel section.
 
Update!

Thought I give you all an upodate. I didn't do a "Wilson Switch" exactly. But I did put in a switch. Basically, I tied into the OEM glow plug solenoid, added a momentary on switch (push button) and replaced the glow plugs with a NGK 7493 (10.5V). I fed power to the switch from the IGN side of the harness. I then removed the glow plug relay (I'm sure this for the timer) from the fender. Hooked it all up, pushed the button for 15 seconds, she started right up. I added a few pics.
GG
 
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