Alternator pulley/belt alignment.

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BTW, I have had no overheating problems with this even though I have no more water pump belt contact than you describe. The reason I mentioned the correct width belt previously was because a too narrow belt can cause the slipping problems you describe.

Ok that's reassuring and come to think of it back then I probably did have the incorrect belt width. I do have the correct size belt. The normal size is 22500, but with the cs series alternators a 22520 or 22540 lengthwise fit better.
 
So I went and came up with a better idea than the jig I was gonna make. I had a bit of 1/4 rod laying around and I welded it to the original alternator bracket and then to the new bracket I made after I got it pretty close using a straight edge from the crank. I then used dental floss and since the 1/4 rod was easy to bend and move around, I just needed to make my final adjustments. One oddity is that the center part of my alternator pulley is flat and not slightly curved like the crank and water pump pulleys. What I needed to do was to put a little tension in the dental floss by tightening my knot, center it on the alternator pulley, spin the alternator, see where the floss moved to, make an adjustment, and repeat the whole procedure till the floss didn't move from center. Welded it all up and it is now nicely aligned.

It was a royal pain in the butt to do this correctly, so thanks for all the tips and advice.
 
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words, word, words.

Post up some pics so we can see your progress and maybe spark some creative ideas for others.
 
Here's your pics. This is after I got it in position and tacked it. I used 2 1/4 inch rods. One is just for support and it is only welded to the original mount. The second one is welded to both. The last pic shows the mount after I welded it all up and cleaned up the welds.
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Funny, I've been working on something like this for about 4 years now. I think I've finally got it.....now I want to go back to the toyota alt! I took the stock bracket and measured from the milled surface on the front of the factory (cast?) bracket to the center of the pulley on the factory alt (installed to bracket, of course). Then I put the toyota pulley on the gm alt, and measured from the center of the pulley to the front of the mounting hole and did the math. I think I ended up using a piece of 3/8 angle to bolt to the face of the toyota bracket, and went from there. By using the exsisting angle of the milled face of the bracket, it had to line up w/ the belt angle, providing all the rest of the ears/ welds were square and plumb to the milled face of the alt bracket. I did not know that the stock bracket was weldable. I thought it was cast and not bondable to extruded (I'm just wrong, I'm sure). I didn't like how high the thing sat in its cradle, so I cut the last ear off the factory bracket to buy two inches- wish I hadn't now. My only problem w/ the whole idea, is that for 3 different gm alts, I have a slow leak of juice- almost certain it's the 1 wire diode-current solution, disconnect battery EVERYWHERE! Long term solution- other than go back to stock- is to add in line switch from alt to ammeter. Jury is still out on my dilema, but your creation sure looks great! good work.
 
I wouldn't use just a one wire setup... I have a cs-144 wired up just like this one in this link is... L is wired up to a switched fused source, the S(which I had to add to my connector) is a 10 gauge connected to the battery post and I don't have a diode anywhere in the wiring. I don't think it is the alternator causing your issue as I have had mine hooked up like this on the engine test stand running off a tiny battery for a few weeks now while I am working a timing issue out between the 3fe dist and my megasquirt computer.

CS 130 & CS 144 ALTERNATOR WIRING DIAGRAM
 
The easiest method I found for lining up my new mount, which followed the earlier example of making it slightly adjustable, then welding it tight, was to: Use a length of 3/8" rod (straight) and slide it along while it's laying in the crank pulley and the alternator pulley. If the pulleys are aligned the rod wil just slide along with the alternator pulley turning, but if it's mis-aligned, it will slightly rotate around it's axis because it's riding higher on one side of the "V" than the other.

Harder to explain than it was to do, and my belts are aligned quite nicely now.

Jeff
 
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