There are a couple of issues you need to resolve, or give the board feedback on.
The alternator bracket for a 1F engine will work for you, look for one from say 70 to 74. The alternator will need the wider pulley on it, you will probably get that with any alternator you pick up. The adjuster is just a straight bar with a long slot in it. You still have the original stud and spacer on the water pump, so you are good to go there. Looks like SOR has the bracket and adjuster you need. Settup will look like the photo posted above by living in the past.
As for alternator, how are you rewiring? The FJ40 used an external voltage regulator until the late 70's, I'm unsure of the cutoff. By 82 in US spec trucks the voltage regulator was called "internal" or integral to the alternator. Looking at Spector, they show a Non-US alternator as being externally regulated until 1987.
So, are you rewiring to have the external voltage regulator, or are replacing wires that were already there? I don't see a regulator left on your truck, I believe it mounted on the two ears high on the right side of the firewall. Looks to be a ground wire attached there in your photo. Would have been a 3? prong plastic plug there somewhere, and a corresponding 3 prong plug near the alternator. Wire color for these wires was pretty universal in all the wiring looms, There is a white one and a black one as I recall. Comes in the harness down the top of the fender and branches off below the air cleaner. The main charge wire is a larger gauge white with blue stripe wire, comes off the alternator, through the amp meter in the dash and over to the battery. This attaches to the alternator with a single ring terminal on the "B" terminal. Power for the vehicle is drawn off that wire in a big splice under the dash as I recall.
The Delco alternator that was added is a higher output, internally regulated unit. So the wiring described above would not be used, could have been chopped out.
The alternative to the external regulator, depending on the re-wiring, is an internally regulated alternator for a 3F engine here in the US. That wiring conversion is pretty well documented here on mud, and I think the alternator would fit okay there, as that is the native location on a 3F. A internally regulated alternator from a 2F, sometimes won't fit as the ears are at the wrong spot, and sometimes the housing for the regulator can interfere with mounting. It all depends on the alternator. I see on Rockauto, that most of the alternators, regardless of the engine or year seem to be straight clocked on the ears. Those would be a one size fits all deal, as the factory alternator had the adjustment ear clocked towards the block depending on the 1F orientation, or 2F orientation.
I will add, if you go with the externally regulated alternator, and you are rewiring, you can add an additional wire and use an electronic regulator for any 70's Ford and you will have a more reliable regulator than the original points based unit. I did that years ago, and it was a good upgrade, the regulator needs input from the "B" terminal. I made a pigtail to splice the factory wiring to the Ford regulator wiring, but you could wire direct if you are re-wiring.
The alternator bracket for a 1F engine will work for you, look for one from say 70 to 74. The alternator will need the wider pulley on it, you will probably get that with any alternator you pick up. The adjuster is just a straight bar with a long slot in it. You still have the original stud and spacer on the water pump, so you are good to go there. Looks like SOR has the bracket and adjuster you need. Settup will look like the photo posted above by living in the past.
As for alternator, how are you rewiring? The FJ40 used an external voltage regulator until the late 70's, I'm unsure of the cutoff. By 82 in US spec trucks the voltage regulator was called "internal" or integral to the alternator. Looking at Spector, they show a Non-US alternator as being externally regulated until 1987.
So, are you rewiring to have the external voltage regulator, or are replacing wires that were already there? I don't see a regulator left on your truck, I believe it mounted on the two ears high on the right side of the firewall. Looks to be a ground wire attached there in your photo. Would have been a 3? prong plastic plug there somewhere, and a corresponding 3 prong plug near the alternator. Wire color for these wires was pretty universal in all the wiring looms, There is a white one and a black one as I recall. Comes in the harness down the top of the fender and branches off below the air cleaner. The main charge wire is a larger gauge white with blue stripe wire, comes off the alternator, through the amp meter in the dash and over to the battery. This attaches to the alternator with a single ring terminal on the "B" terminal. Power for the vehicle is drawn off that wire in a big splice under the dash as I recall.
The Delco alternator that was added is a higher output, internally regulated unit. So the wiring described above would not be used, could have been chopped out.
The alternative to the external regulator, depending on the re-wiring, is an internally regulated alternator for a 3F engine here in the US. That wiring conversion is pretty well documented here on mud, and I think the alternator would fit okay there, as that is the native location on a 3F. A internally regulated alternator from a 2F, sometimes won't fit as the ears are at the wrong spot, and sometimes the housing for the regulator can interfere with mounting. It all depends on the alternator. I see on Rockauto, that most of the alternators, regardless of the engine or year seem to be straight clocked on the ears. Those would be a one size fits all deal, as the factory alternator had the adjustment ear clocked towards the block depending on the 1F orientation, or 2F orientation.
I will add, if you go with the externally regulated alternator, and you are rewiring, you can add an additional wire and use an electronic regulator for any 70's Ford and you will have a more reliable regulator than the original points based unit. I did that years ago, and it was a good upgrade, the regulator needs input from the "B" terminal. I made a pigtail to splice the factory wiring to the Ford regulator wiring, but you could wire direct if you are re-wiring.
