This is sort of a follow up to my light bar installation thread. What occurred is that I tried to install a new Carling (ARB style) switch for my light bar on top of another switch for the driving lights. Stupid me didn't measure (isn't there some saying about measure once, cut twice? Or something like that...
) and the new switch didn't fit...
So the only reasonable conclusion was to replace all the switches! Or maybe it was actually a ploy all along to get my wife to let me do this
. Anyways, I am VERY pleased with the outcome as is she.
I bought all my switches from Air On Board, available here:
TUNDRA 2008-ON - Toyota Switches -Air On Board. I know these don't state they work with the 200-series, but I assure you any of the 9xx switches will work. I oped for green as the factory switches are green. I really like the word "spotties" too! Makes me feel like I'm down under! Not to mention they are mounted on my "roo bar"
.
FYI: CH4x4 offers the same (I think identical) switches and they even can do custom switches with any logo and text. AOB was simply a bit cheaper. Note that if you get these from CH4x4 you want the "small" push switches.
Also, I had to order replacement switch panels from my Toyota dealer (Thank you @murf!) as my existing ones were dremeled to fit the Carling switches. You'll need part numbers 5544660060C0 and 5544760020C0. These are black, but the tan color is also available. $50 shipped.
Here are the new bezels, five switches, and pigtails:
Here's how they are going to be laid out. I've already extended the wiring from the air compressor to the locker switches. Note that the factory switches cannot be relocated. They are keyed specifically for the slots they are in. You can do anything with a Dremel tool, however, but this placement works well for me.
I wish that the pigtails had spade connectors already on them, as that's what the Carling switches used, but nothing a crimp tool and heatshrink can't solve.
Wiring these in now is easy peasy. Note that the Carling switches use two ground wires, but these only use one. If you have the circuit wired backwards (red and green wires), the switch will still function, but the light will stay on. Don't ask me how I know this...
Out with the old...
And in with the new!
The only thing I may do is install a resister on the illumination wire as the green is significantly brighter than the factory switches, but honestly doesn't bug me much. They aren't blinding, just not fully "OEM look" at night.
Now onto the next project...



So the only reasonable conclusion was to replace all the switches! Or maybe it was actually a ploy all along to get my wife to let me do this

I bought all my switches from Air On Board, available here:
TUNDRA 2008-ON - Toyota Switches -Air On Board. I know these don't state they work with the 200-series, but I assure you any of the 9xx switches will work. I oped for green as the factory switches are green. I really like the word "spotties" too! Makes me feel like I'm down under! Not to mention they are mounted on my "roo bar"

FYI: CH4x4 offers the same (I think identical) switches and they even can do custom switches with any logo and text. AOB was simply a bit cheaper. Note that if you get these from CH4x4 you want the "small" push switches.
Also, I had to order replacement switch panels from my Toyota dealer (Thank you @murf!) as my existing ones were dremeled to fit the Carling switches. You'll need part numbers 5544660060C0 and 5544760020C0. These are black, but the tan color is also available. $50 shipped.

Here are the new bezels, five switches, and pigtails:

Here's how they are going to be laid out. I've already extended the wiring from the air compressor to the locker switches. Note that the factory switches cannot be relocated. They are keyed specifically for the slots they are in. You can do anything with a Dremel tool, however, but this placement works well for me.

I wish that the pigtails had spade connectors already on them, as that's what the Carling switches used, but nothing a crimp tool and heatshrink can't solve.

Wiring these in now is easy peasy. Note that the Carling switches use two ground wires, but these only use one. If you have the circuit wired backwards (red and green wires), the switch will still function, but the light will stay on. Don't ask me how I know this...

Out with the old...


And in with the new!


The only thing I may do is install a resister on the illumination wire as the green is significantly brighter than the factory switches, but honestly doesn't bug me much. They aren't blinding, just not fully "OEM look" at night.
Now onto the next project...
