After CC install.......steering wheel shaking

[LICruiser]

So I finally had my CC bushings installed and I think they were installed incorrectly. I now have a shaking in the steering wheel while braking at highway speeds that I didn't have before. My front rotors were replace 2k ago and the bearing all seemed fine. I'm thinking the shaking is from a inproper install. When I brake hard the wheel shakes as stated but tracks straight thru the stop, I don't feel a brake pulsating. One thing I have noticed is that the wheel feels lighter when I turn left then when I turn right. Also the numbers for caster and camber seem wrong. This is what they gave me

Before:
Caster
PS -1/8
Driveside -1/2

Camber
PS +3/16
DS -1/8

After install
Caster
PS +1
DS +1 1/8

Camber
PS +5/16
DS 0

toe +1/16

What do you guys think? I'm confused and not sure where I should start.

 

[PHAEDRUS]

pulsing brakes have nothing to do with castor.
Did you flush the brake lines when you installed the rotorts and such??
Start there and come back.

 

[LICruiser]

Ok, but steering wheel shimmy has to do with brake line flushes??

 

[landtank]

If those numbers are in degrees then I think something was done wrong. The bushings should yield 2.5* of correction and you got maybe 1*.

So if the starting numbers are correct you should have ended up just over 2* in caster which should be fine.

 

[LICruiser]

I think I get it. What would be next to check then? I'm reserved to say it's a brake issue just b/c I haven't had a problem since they were done 2k ago. Could it be a toe isssue?

 

[landtank]

to start I think the bushings where pressed in wrong.

 

[LICruiser]

Yep, me too. This sux. How does a bushing then get pressed in when you're not working with a reference like they were with the old one in?

 

[landtank]

you basically want the bushings set so they are 180* from each other while still having the proper distance between the holes and orientated so the front bushing's hole is up and the rear bushing's hole is down.

A trick that some use is to solder some 1/2" copper pipe and elbows to make a "U" shape that fits the original holes as a jig to maintain the distance while positioning the bushings for maximum correction.

 

[LICruiser]

I've read about that. Thanks for the help landtank. The kicker is that on the highway (I drove about 700miles this w/e) the truck doesn't wander. Wouldn't that then mean there is a brake issue or a tie rod end loose?

 

[concretejungle]

A trick that some use is to solder some 1/2" copper pipe and elbows to make a "U" shape that fits the original holes as a jig to maintain the distance while positioning the bushings for maximum correction.

Yep, that's what i did (or had someone do )

Perhaps they torqued the lugs down too tight after installing the bushings, thus causing warped rotors. That does happen, and quick. I always check my torque on my lugs when i have the tires balanced. I never trust the shop.

Also, maybe there is some grease or something on the rotor face...

 

[LICruiser]

Thats a good thought, which never occured to me.

 

[landtank]

Perhaps they torqued the lugs down too tight after installing the bushings, thus causing warped rotors.

I don't see that happening on these axles. It would mean that you warped the hub since the rotor bolts to the back of it and not sandwiched between the hub and wheel.

 

[concretejungle]

Rick, i just know from first hand experience that i went through turning and then a new set of rotors, both warped within weeks. All done at the time at a tire place using thier airguns. Then i replaced with another OEM set of rotors and have made sure (using my torque wrench) they are properly torqued and i have not had an issue at all with them in over 80,000 miles. Just my 2cents.

 

[landtank]

Rick, i just know from first hand experience that i went through turning and then a new set of rotors, both warped within weeks. All done at the time at a tire place using thier airguns. Then i replaced with another OEM set of rotors and have made sure (using my torque wrench) they are properly torqued and i have not had an issue at all with them in over 80,000 miles. Just my 2cents.

Turned rotors will most likely warp, installing new rotors incorrectly will cause them to warp. I think you just finally did it right and it had nothing to do with the lug nut's torque.

 

[LICruiser]

I'm very annoyed at the bushing, brakes, everything. I feel like I spent money on nothing. Anyway b/c of issue I've really gained some cuiser knowledge. With that said brakes seem to be the culprit. Landtank, if the car was wandering (I just drove I-91 into VT) then I would think bushing so I'm going to have to check out brakes. What a bummer and sittig in an office doesn't help

 

[landtank]

Definately get the brakes checked out but I can't help think something else is going on. I keep visualizing one of those busted shopping carriage wheels that wobbles when you push it and when you apply the brakes the axle shifts slightly to cause something similar. Probably just my imagination working overtime.

 

[concretejungle]

Now that i think more, i see what you are saying rick.

I think another important note, is to use good (prefferably OEM) pads. Don't put those lifetime craps on there. That could cause warped rotors.

Also, when putting on new rotors, put on new pads too.

 

[concretejungle]

Another thing for wandering could be either loose/burnt wheel bearings or trunion bearings....or spent rod ends.

 

[LICruiser]

Not your imagination b/c mine has been going a mile a minute about this. You've been a big help but I guess it just come back to me listening for a warped rotor and then if not that then try and re-do the bushings. The problem is that no one wans to do this bushing job and I got hosed on the install price b/c nobody know what they are doing and they know I don't owna press

 

[concretejungle]

jack the front end up and try to put both hands on the tire and see if there is any movement in it.......wait i may be getting off topic. you said it tracks straight and true in the first post, jus wobbly.

Are they new pads and rotors? If so, i would try to re-seat them. That is a series of stops from 60mph down and then drive long enough for them to cool. Perhaps you have some material on the rotor that needs to be removed.