Quite likely stock. The change over was different in canadian trucks vrs US, but in the later years FJ40s did have 3.7's.
Added to the sickness.
- Thread starter baxter650
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My '77 FJ40 came with 3.70's in stock formation
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My stock BJ42 has 4.11's but I'm pretty sure the Gas FJ40's were 3.70's. The 3B is only 85HP, the 2F is about 120HP with higher torque as well.
- Thread starter
- #24
A raging 120HP, so with 4.11s this thing is gonna fly, ha.
Well at least the boy may have an little easier time with the clutch, that is once i pound out the dent in the housing stopping the gears from turning.
Well at least the boy may have an little easier time with the clutch, that is once i pound out the dent in the housing stopping the gears from turning.
Mud_Guppie
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76 is 50/50
77 and up is usually 3.7's
this applies to fj40's and FJ55's in Canada
nothing is written in stone either as this is a 30 plus year old Cruiser
the numbers are based off of parting out a lot of Cruisers and not from a Toyota document
FJ45's, BJ40's were 4.11 in those days
77 and up is usually 3.7's
this applies to fj40's and FJ55's in Canada
nothing is written in stone either as this is a 30 plus year old Cruiser
the numbers are based off of parting out a lot of Cruisers and not from a Toyota document
FJ45's, BJ40's were 4.11 in those days
- Thread starter
- #27
Next on the long list was the leaking oilpan.
Removed the skid plate to get at the rusted out area, cut that crap out.
Bashed out a patch panel and welded it in, replaced the skid plate.
See how long this lasts for.
Removed the skid plate to get at the rusted out area, cut that crap out.
Bashed out a patch panel and welded it in, replaced the skid plate.
See how long this lasts for.
Nice work. I don't think I'ever seen a rusty oil pan, didn't even think it was possible to rust through what with all the built in rust inhibitor on the inside.
But then again most of my old trucks have taken a page from Land Rovers and are self lubricating everywhere.
But then again most of my old trucks have taken a page from Land Rovers and are self lubricating everywhere.
X2 on the nice work.
Actually, those pans rust out fairly often. I know that Charles (Cruiser_guy) was bring up loads of them for sale from Central America when he and Petra were working in Guatemala.
Very nice work. That's a lucky old 40 to have found it's way into your stable.
I should probably try that repair on my 3B pan, the JB weld can't last forever
I should probably try that repair on my 3B pan, the JB weld can't last forever
I should probably try that repair on my 3B pan, the JB weld can't last forever
It will probably last longer than the surrounding metal.
Wow, fantastic patch job. That's some skill
I often see a very cool 80 here in Abby at the Superstore. Yours by any chance?
Paul
Yes, I have been wondering who owns that green very lifted 80.
Mud_Guppie
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nice patch!
can't even see it
can't even see it
With the lift and tires on that thing, she would have no problem driving over anything to get a free parking spot.
Not exactly my image of a mall wheeler mobile.
- Thread starter
- #38
Put the pan back on, cork gaskets are bad enough but cork end gaskets too.
I was tempted to use just a bead of silicone on the ends but i did use the cork.
Before i could install the third and finish the diff i had to pound out the dent/hole contacting the ring gear.
A PO had welded a patch over the hole, but didn't want to tear down the diff in order to pound out the dent first.
Ground off his patch and his splatter weld and removed the dent leaving a nice hole were the old ring gear chewed it's way through.
I will weld on a hefty 1/4" or 3/8" plate guard later on.
Anyways got the third in and stuffed in
the axles, cut down backing plates ( left enough to support the brake hose ) new rotors and larger 4 Runner calipers.
Broke one of the Warn locking hubs removing it but i wasn't going to use them anyways.
The axles/hubs are the longer variety that i don't happen to have, but i did find that the drive flanges from the 80 series fit.
They will do till i find a set of FJ55 hubs.
I was tempted to use just a bead of silicone on the ends but i did use the cork.
Before i could install the third and finish the diff i had to pound out the dent/hole contacting the ring gear.
A PO had welded a patch over the hole, but didn't want to tear down the diff in order to pound out the dent first.
Ground off his patch and his splatter weld and removed the dent leaving a nice hole were the old ring gear chewed it's way through.
I will weld on a hefty 1/4" or 3/8" plate guard later on.
Anyways got the third in and stuffed in
the axles, cut down backing plates ( left enough to support the brake hose ) new rotors and larger 4 Runner calipers.
Broke one of the Warn locking hubs removing it but i wasn't going to use them anyways.
The axles/hubs are the longer variety that i don't happen to have, but i did find that the drive flanges from the 80 series fit.
They will do till i find a set of FJ55 hubs.
Last edited:
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yes nice work you have talent,hope your kids pick that up. always nice to see someone who does it right gets the deal. i once had an old canadian model bmw bike could have got a couple grand for it ,but i loved that bike so much i gave it to shails knowing that if he did not restore it he would not sell it to anybody unless they would,i personally put over 250,000 miles on it .
Or swap the spare Birfields from your 60 and use regular old Aisan hubs. They are stronger anyways. If you grind down the axle ball a little, those 60 series Birf's will slide right in, again, the Birfs are a bit stronger in the 60 series/ mini truck.
I think I still have a Warn hub kicking around as well