ACSD blanking plate

[jcolvin]

Yes I know about pushing down the accelerator then pulling and tightening the throttle. That doesnt seem to help though. Before the pump was R/R the throttle worked perfectly. I was told though that without the ACSD the idle will be lower when cold so that must have something to do with the hand throttle not being able to idle the engine up enough. Also, when the engine is warm the hand throttle works fine or at least far better than when the engine is cold. So it has to have something to do with the ACSD being removed.

The hand throttle doesn't do anything that stepping on the accelerator won't do, since they connect to the same place. If you can step on the accelerator and get whatever rpm you want, then the hand throttle issue has nothing to do with the ascd. Likely your hand throttle isn't locking properly. Mine doesn't really lock anymore either.

 

[ikeedikeed]

I just put my new hand throttle lock in. Works like a charm. I can see now why pulling on it is a bad idea. It'll break that little metal tab that keeps the knob on.

That wasn't my problem though. The old one still won't turn. First pic is of the old one. Second pic is the part where the **** up is but I don't know how to open it up without smashing it. And I'm pretty sure if I smash it I won't be able to tell where the problem was anyway. Also its just about beer o'clock.

Got the new one from Dave at Japan4x4.com and it took 12 days to arrive at my door. 3500 yen which is somewhere in the neighborhood of $45. I figure thats better than A drive down to Princess for a cheaper generic one plus all the hassle of making it fit but to each his own.

 

[ForealBoreal]

i recently bought a kit for the acsd from radd and it came with a hollow metal tube.
Any ideas what its for?
I haven't started the acsd delete yet, monday or tuesday assuming i get the transfer case put back together.

 

[LanceCruiser]

i recently bought a kit for the acsd from radd and it came with a hollow metal tube.
Any ideas what its for?
I haven't started the acsd delete yet, monday or tuesday assuming i get the transfer case put back together.

Yeah, not sure what the metal tube is for either? Usually all that is needed is the plate, O-ring, and a length of hose for a rad fluid return line back to the engine. Actually, it could be a splice for the 2 original return lines?

 

[ForealBoreal]

Yeah, not sure what the metal tube is for either? Usually all that is needed is the plate, O-ring, and a length of hose for a rad fluid return line back to the engine. Actually, it could be a splice for the 2 original return lines?

Nope it can't be that.
Rob M said its something that replaces something.
I am really confused with it. I can take a picture.

 

[LanceCruiser]

Now, I'm really curious?

 

[ikeedikeed]

I had mine rebuilt and the plate istalled now hand throttle barely works. I had it checked out twice and the shop says it works perfectly. I used to able to idle it up to 1200-1250 and now maybe 1000 but then it drops off almost immediately.

Screwy.

Having just replaced my hand throttle with a new one I can offer the following:

1) Your problem with no longer being able to reach 1250 rpm with your hand throttle is likely due to too much slack in the hand throttle cable and it's using some of its range of motion to eat up that slack. Maybe when your pump was RR'd the dude changed the tightness of your main throttle cable or something to set the idle RPM, I don't know.

Try playing with the brass set-screw thing about three or four inches back from where the hand throttle cable attaches to the pedal. You should be able to reach it (uncomfortably) without removing any panels. I had to play with this to fine tune when I installed the new one.

2) If your RPMs drop off quickly after you set the hand throttle, like jcolvin said, your throttle lock isn't holding and it's on its way out. If this is what's going on you should be able to watch the hand throttle slide back to resting position at the same time the RPMs drop off.

 

[ForealBoreal]

That tube is the part I do not know what to do with

 

[BCR4619]

I would have thought it was a coupling for tying the two lines together but as you pointed out apparently it isnt... I dont remember that coming with mine, do you Lance?

 

[ForealBoreal]

It's a spacer.
Three Allen bolts and the unit comes off
My glove is pointing to the spacer installed
The long Allen bolt you remove goes through it

Hardest part was the coolant line hose clamp fiasco

 

[LanceCruiser]

Well, I guess if I ever wanted to fork up dough for a new ACSD, and install it, I'm going to need that bolt too. Yeah, might as well keep everything together.

 

[jcolvin]

Spacer for what? When i blanked off my ACSD I don't recall needing a spacer for anything.

 

[LanceCruiser]

That looks beefy, Phil. Yeah, for the 80s throttle lock, you should be able to see the cable slide in and out fairly easily, it has about an inch of travel to it (correction 3/4" of travel, it's the other throttle lock I'm going to use that is about an inch and a 1/4). It feels like a cam type of lock when you twist it. The one in my truck, the cam must have broke inside the body, and you can turn it any more to try and lock it. I hope your new one is not broken too? I wouldn't say it's a hand throttle, since you have to assist it with the go pedal.

Spacer for what? When i blanked off my ACSD I don't recall needing a spacer for anything.

The spacer is optional if you want to keep the third long bolt, if you ever decide to put a new ACSD back in. With no throttle lock it sucks having to hold the pedal down, until the engine warms up enough to hold it's own revs. Sometimes I think about putting a new ACSD back, because I wonder if it has something to do with why I can't seem to dial in the idle to factory specs, its either tow low or too high. If it's too high it's trying to engage the transmission to move. I can't find an in between anymore?

 

[ForealBoreal]

That looks beefy, Phil. Yeah, for the 80s throttle lock, you should be able to see the cable slide in and out fairly easily, it has about an inch of travel to it. It feels like a cam type of lock when you twist it. The one in my truck, the cam must have broke inside the body, and you can turn it any more to try and lock it. I hope your new one is not broken too? I wouldn't say it's a hand throttle, since you have to assist it with the go pedal.



The spacer is optional if you want to keep the third long bolt, if you ever decide to put a new ACSD back in. With no throttle lock it sucks having to hold the pedal down, until the engine warms up enough to hold it's own revs. Sometimes I think about putting a new ACSD back, because I wonder if it has something to do with why I can't seem to dial in the idle to factory specs, its either tow low or too high. If it's too high it's trying to engage the transmission to move. I can't find an in between anymore?

you want mine, it was perfect coming out.

 

[LanceCruiser]

you want mine, it was perfect coming out.

I might just grab it from you, just to experiment. Too bad I chucked the long allen bolt away, but ATEB might have one kicking around.

 

[ForealBoreal]

they probably do.
I am coming down at the very end of may.
I need some stuff dropped off and potentially picked up from Rocket (ceramic coating)
Don't know how far of a drive that is for you.

 

[LanceCruiser]

Abbotsford is no problem, I can do it for you. Are you doing your exhaust manifold?

 

[ForealBoreal]

Abbotsford is no problem, I can do it for you. Are you doing your exhaust manifold?

Exhaust manifold, compressor and turbine housing too

 

[LanceCruiser]

Exhaust manifold, compressor and turbine housing too

Nice.

 

[LanceCruiser]

CORRECTION! I went to ATEB today and John showed me what the spacer was for. It's for the AT kick down bracket, Foreal's his is standard, and doesn't have the bracket, so it looks like it is hanging out there. I checked mine and I do have a spacer installed there. My bad. s***, I really don't remember installing it.