AC folks........

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Can’t get a picture to upload. Low side says 90 high side says 12
 
B10D8855-2945-4530-9C33-AE5B4BCCF0EF.webp
 
Can’t get a picture to upload. Low side says 90 high side says 12


^^^^

IF those are accurate readings....something is amiss. You low side should not be anywhere near that high and your high side shouldn't be anywhere near that low. Sure you don't have the two transposed?
 
You have 90 and 180psi. Too high on the low side.

What was the ambient temp (outside air temp) when you took the readings?
 
I did not pull a vacuum. I was just seeing if it held.
Temp is 90deg and 90% hum.
High side is on the left and low side is on the right of the compressor. (That’s me looking at the compressor and facing the pully)
 
I did not pull a vacuum. I was just seeing if it held.
Temp is 90deg and 90% hum.
High side is on the left and low side is on the right of the compressor. (That’s me looking at the compressor and facing the pully)


I'd see if it will take another 1/2 can and watch if the low side pressure comes down a bit and the high side goes up. Then see if the system will 'hold' that charge. You have air and moisture in the system (and Lord only knows how much oil). So your pressures are going to be higher than normal. But this might give you some direction. At the very least you'll know if the compressor starts making any bad sounds or the system won't hold the charge that you are looking at replacing several components.
 
Here’s a question guys, should I just start over and clean the system out somehow?
 
Here’s a question guys, should I just start over and clean the system out somehow?


Yep.

You can use your old lines (have them flushed). New compressor, New Evaportator, New TXV, New Drier, All new O-rings (use blue Nylog to seal), pull a DEEP vacuum, recharge system (weigh it in using R134a and 8 ozs of PAG46) and then enjoy your nice cool air for the next 10 years.

AC1.webp
 
Well when I mentioned start over I meant, drain the system, vacuum and recharge.
 
Well when I mentioned start over I meant, drain the system, vacuum and recharge.

Not until it has been proven that the system will:

1. Hold a charge
2. Run the compressor with no issues
3. Cool to at least 20-25° below ambient (as is).

There is no such thing as drain the system. You can evacuate the system but we have no idea how much oil is in the system, if refrigerants or oils have been mixed, if any stop leak products are in there, ruptured desiccant bag, acids formed, etc....

Sure....you can take a chance, discharge the system so that you KNOW the weighed in amount of refrigerant (always good) but I wouldn't count on the system lasting long unless you just get lucky. Too many unknowns with the system, but I leave it up to you.

Personally, I don't like doing A/C work 2, 3, 4 times....but you might get away with it.
 
Flintknapper speaks the truth.
Your starting with goodness knows what's wrong with that system.
In the long run it will be worth the peace of mind to fix it with known good parts.
 
I don’t want to spoil my son too soon by buying all new parts. I want him to earn some of them. I’ll put some more charge into it tomorrow.
 
I don’t want to spoil my son too soon by buying all new parts. I want him to earn some of them. I’ll put some more charge into it tomorrow.

IF you can get some cool air going for the Lad and then have him involved in getting some of the new parts later to do it right, then I think that is excellent. Good for your Son to 'earn' them and have some skin in the game. I certainly approve of that.

But IF it doesn't work out....you'll want him to have A/C. I'm sure summertime in Mississippi is at least as bad as it is here in Texas.

So maybe you could 'front' him the parts if it comes to that.
 
Ac! Man this drives everyone crazy, I have been through 5 ac systems and I feel your pain. I purchased harbor freight gauges and a vacuum pump for like 50 bucks on amazon bought some uv dye and 3 cans of refrigerant. If I :beer:was in you shoes I would take to a shop and have them evac your system and see if it holds a vacuum -30 for 30-60 min. If it holds fill it your self and enjoy cold air. Or buy a vacum pump and do the test yourself. If your system is r12 than you should convert, like others have said who knows whats been done to the system. Lots of guys will just charge it and if it holds forget about it! But the day it stops working they or you will have to bite the bullet and fix. I am in the state of mind to fix before it breaks at my convenience. Shop should be under 75$ to evac and pull a vacuum. @flintknapper has given you solid advice also. (Like usual)
 
If your system is r12 than you should convert,

Worst advice ever.
If you have the option of staying R12, then you should stay with R12.
It's a FAR superior refrigerant. Bigger molecule size (less chance of leakage), lower discharge pressures, much better efficiency (resulting in superior A/C performance), uses non-hygroscopic oil..

R12 is still available in US and legal to use. So there no reason to convert to R134F. Yes, it's a lot more expensive, but in the long run it's going to cost a lot less to stick with R12 than a PROPER conversion to R134F would cost (which would require replacing ALL the major components in the system, including flex lines). Yes, many hacks will tell you that you can get away with just slapping on the new fittings and doing a half-ass flush, but that will lead to an inefficient and unreliable system.
 
Worst advice ever.
If you have the option of staying R12, then you should stay with R12.
It's a FAR superior refrigerant. Bigger molecule size (less chance of leakage), lower discharge pressures, much better efficiency (resulting in superior A/C performance), uses non-hygroscopic oil..

R12 is still available in US and legal to use. So there no reason to convert to R134F. Yes, it's a lot more expensive, but in the long run it's going to cost a lot less to stick with R12 than a PROPER conversion to R134F would cost (which would require replacing ALL the major components in the system, including flex lines). Yes, many hacks will tell you that you can get away with just slapping on the new fittings and doing a half-ass flush, but that will lead to an inefficient and unreliable system.
We all have our own opinions, I agree r12 is better, but also very toxic for the environment. that’s why I said have it evacuated and it holds a vacuum fill and enjoy. The fact that he has r134 style adapter would lead me to believe he already has r134 in his system, And possible running a mix of POG oil and the older style oil. The op also has weird reading on his gauges. In the end we all just want everyone to be able to save some money and time by accomplishing repairs with a little guidance from the site. Nothing personal here. 🤙 hopefully he gets it dialed and will let us all know how he did it and it worked out? Also good luck buying r12 you have to have a license to obtain and it is stupid expensive. You can buy r134 4 bucks for 12 ounces any where.
 
Maybe @Vasiliy has a EPA 609 certificate to purchase r12 and can help you out. 😁
 
Back
Top Bottom