Build A fabricators 80 build....

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

The vertical reinforcement pieces for the back of the wings. To add strength for upward hits. What my ARB bumper lacks. Will definitely help. But again this bumper is designed mainly for overland use. But by no means is it not strong.
image.webp
 
I really like it! Have you considered cutting notches (roughly following the contour of the reinforcement washers) to allow the Prolink some rotational movement? I can't imagine you'd have to cut into the bracket/bumper more than a 1/2" or so to give it several degrees of rotation. It would be a shame to mar that pretty aluminum link if you're not pulling straight on.

Forgive the amazing Paint skills, but here is my thoughts - remove material outlined in blue (top and bottom) to allow rotation of the link:
prolinkmountcut.webp
 
Last edited:
celibaterifle said:
I'm liking what you have done. Nice work with the recovery points.
Click to expand...

Thank you! The recovery points are getting there. Made a couple calls on the pins Today. only to find out that configured how I wanted they are almost 100 bucks each and a 4-6 week lead time. Neither of which I was thrilled about. Gonna make a couple more calls tomorrow. If I get the same responses I'm probably gonna turn down my own or find something that is a good compromise on cost and quality.
 
iou180 said:
I use that same welder in my shop. Nice machine. Good work throughout. Keep it up.
Click to expand...

I'm loving this machine. I might like it better than the 350p I have at work. (350p being in mig mode). Pulse mode is awesome and a different level. I love pulse lol.But can't justify the price on that bad boy for the home shop. The arc start on the 252 is really smooth and clean and puddle wet out is so nice. I've gotten great results with it so far and I'm not even dialed in on it yet. Although at work we use 035 wire primarily and I'm running 030 on the 252. Both with shop mix. The only thing I don't like on it is the unbelievably cheap front compartment door!!
 
bryson said:
I really like it! Have you considered cutting notches (roughly following the contour of the reinforcement washers) to allow the Prolink some rotational movement? I can't imagine you'd have to cut into the bracket/bumper more than a 1/2" or so to give it several degrees of rotation. It would be a shame to mar that pretty aluminum link if you're not pulling straight on.

Forgive the amazing Paint skills, but here is my thoughts - remove material outlined in blue (top and bottom) to allow rotation of the link:
View attachment 1082724
Click to expand...

Thanks for the input and I went back and forth on this a few times. But it created more work to get the same possible wear on the Prolink. That's why I choose to go with the bubba rope soft shackle for any and all angled pulls. If the Prolink had a longer tongue it would have allowed me to address that possible concern with a slightly different designed pocket. I probably could have gotten 45 degrees L/R easily. I plan on giving that feed back to factor 55 with pics when I'm finished. Who knows. But on the pic below you can see how I profiled the pockets (tops and bottoms) to match the contour of the Prolink and the sides give nice 1/4 round corners for the soft shackles on side pulls. If someone really did it want to scratch up the Prolink they could just use the soft shackle all the time to make the connection to the Prolink.
image.webp
 
Got a little time tonight and got the hoop welded and the inside wing supports. Almost ready for paint. I painted the insides of the wings last night before covering them tonight. I just have to weld on my light bar tabs, stainless steel canoe/kayak tie downs and the winch mounts. Painting soon!
image.webp
That 1x1 is just there to give support while welding.
 
image.webp
Driver side. I pushed this support in slightly more than the passenger side to leave room to tuck the a/c dryer in there so it doesn't hang down. Until I or anyone else I make this bumper for has time to figure out how they want to move theirs. Or has the time to relocate it. I would not recommend using the A/C with the dryer in that position. It needs to be at least at 45degrees preferably as close to vertical as you can keep it. I will be relocating mine to under the hood at a later time.
 
Those plates made a huge difference in vertical stability. I might be able to jack up the vehicle by a wing. If so I'm gonna cut small pockets for the high lift. They will be hardly visible from above. I was originally hoping I could do that but wasn't sure how strong the 10 gauge wings would be. I'll test before paint.
 
This is fantastic and only gets better every day.

You're in Massachusetts, right? What are your thoughts for corrosion protection on this work of art?
 
Golgo13 said:
This is fantastic and only gets better every day.

You're in Massachusetts, right? What are your thoughts for corrosion protection on this work of art?
Click to expand...


Thanks again. I'm using kbs rust seal satin black on this one. It sprays really nice and is very resilient. And all the useful features are done in stainless steel. The reason I didn't want to powdercoat is because it's gonna get scratched and it's easier to fix paint than powder.
 
Quality work!! Can't wait to see what else you're gonna come up with.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Share this page

Back
Top Bottom