97 FZJ80 ABS Light = constant

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DLPDLP

DLPDLP

10 Year
Joined
Jul 3, 2012
Threads
46
Messages
336
Location
Columbia MO
ABS light will not go off. I have jumped the Tc E1 connections but no codes Flash. I have checked OBD and no ABS codes. I have unhooked the battery and light remains on once battery is reconnected. I believe the light came on like it should have when I had the center diff locked but when I unlocked the center diff with the button (button has an override setup that was properly installed) the ABS light never went off. So I can't get a code to tell me what to fix or reset. I did the Tc E1 deal with and without the ABS 2 prong actuator connector hooked up and not hooked up. Can any help? Am I overlooking something simple? Id like to get my ABS working or maybe it is still working? cant tell. Thanks a lot everyone. DLPDLP with anniversary 80
 
After my part time, ABS light is always on, since it no longer works. IDK man but no ABS isn't a huge deal, I know plenty of part-timed 80s riding around without it, but if it's really bothering you i know someone will chime in.
 
Obd won't give abs codes. Neither will the normal check engine connectors. Do you have the factory manual? I was able to diagnose and repair my abs easily enough.
 
Have you checked your brake fluid level? Can't say for sure in the LC, but in other vehicles I have had that is a warning sign that your brake fluid is low.

You say "I believe the light came on like it should have when I had the center diff locked but when I unlocked the center diff with the button (button has an override setup that was properly installed) the ABS light never went off." Are you in high range? If you are in low, the ABS light will remain on unless you did the Pin 7 mod even if the CDL switch is in the off position.
 
Fluid level is good. Thanks cause until I read your question I could not be sure 100%. It was fine and I knew I had checked but you know what I mean. I do want my ABS to work ! Definitely with these tires on slick roads. Thanks for all the feedback. New suggestions welcome and ill keep looking. I do not have a factory manual. Only Chiltons.
 
I've found that a little duct tape over the dash light fixed my abs light problem ! Running mine for over a year with abs light on and no problem. i had a mechanic tell me my abs sensor in drivers side wheel was shot,cant remember what ridiculous amount of dosh he wanted to fix it, and then just last week I discovered that the wires to the sensor on rear drivers side wheel are shot !, curious to see if I fix those wires if abs warning light will go out ?!! Its abs, not that big a deal.
 
Low brake fluid will leave a brake light on. Even dirty fluid. Flushed the wife's system and lights went away

Haven't messed with a cruiser abs bit my wife's 97 ES300. The abs light came on after I replaced the rear struts and stretched the cables to far. The jumper gave me the codes and bought sensors off eBay for 20 percent of auto parts stores. Never checked the stealer ship. Both rear sensors were about $35 if I remember right. Fit prefect.
 
Can you take a photo from your manual and send to me? Just the abs diagnostics. That would be awesome
 
The ABS light stays on in high. With or without center diff locked. Thanks for checking to be sure. One suggested sensor wires. I will look at them once I find them.

And I know I don't need ABS but its nice with bigger mud tires especially when slick.
Thanks all. More feedback welcomed!
 
Would removing any particular fuse reset the code so I can see if it even comes back? Just thought of that possible option.
 
I will do that tonight PPC ! Thanks.

Must be nice to be supercharged in your 94. I wish I had a little more highway power. DLPDLP
 
What was the final outcome?
 
ppc said:
Unplug the center diff locker indicator switch at the front of the transfer case. If the ABS light goes off I would bet that switch is defective.
Click to expand...
I'm having the same issue, I unplugged the switch in question and the ABS light did not turn off.
 
Is the CDL dash light on as well? If only the ABS light is on then there is most likely a fault within the ABS system. You will need to go through the diagnostic section in the FSM.
 
ppc said:
Is the CDL dash light on as well? If only the ABS light is on then there is most likely a fault within the ABS system. You will need to go through the diagnostic section in the FSM.
Click to expand...
CDL dash light is not on.

I put new switches on for the 4L and CDL indicator, put in a CDL button, and did the 7 pin mod. ABS light came on after putting in the switches.

I did the diagnostics routine (jump E1 and Tc) and did not get any blinks out of the ABS.

Pulling the little jumper, the ABS light turns off. No Codes.
 
bski90 said:
CDL dash light is not on.

I put new switches on for the 4L and CDL indicator, put in a CDL button, and did the 7 pin mod. ABS light came on after putting in the switches.

I did the diagnostics routine (jump E1 and Tc) and did not get any blinks out of the ABS.

Pulling the little jumper, the ABS light turns off. No Codes.
Click to expand...

Just exactly what little jumper are you referring to? If you added a CDL switch a jumper is removed from the harness so the switch can be plugged into that connector.

Did you use a OEM CDL switch or did you repurpose some other switch?
Exactly what switches are you referring to by "ABS light came on after putting in the switches."?
What happens in high range when you press the CDL dash switch?
 
ppc said:
Just exactly what little jumper are you referring to? If you added a CDL switch a jumper is removed from the harness so the switch can be plugged into that connector.

Did you use a OEM CDL switch or did you repurpose some other switch?
Exactly what switches are you referring to by "ABS light came on after putting in the switches."?
What happens in high range when you press the CDL dash switch?
Click to expand...
Pulled the little jumper in the DLC1 to get the diagnostic codes for ABS. Only thing I get is a blinking green "cruise light". Edit: Just saw this is normal for the cruise blinking.

I added an OEM CDL button (removed jumper) and did the 7 pin mod.

The center diff was not locking, so I installed two new switches on the transfer case. After this, the ABS and CDL light came on when going into 4L.

The next day when I started the truck, the ABS light was on when in 4H.

When pressing the CDL button, the CDL light comes on and I hear a relay click under the dash.
 
Last edited:
bski90 said:
Pulled the little jumper in the DLC1 to get the diagnostic codes for ABS. Only thing I get is a blinking green "cruise light".

I added an OEM CDL button (removed jumper) and did the 7 pin mod.

The center diff was not locking, so I installed two new switches on the transfer case. After this, the ABS and CDL light came on when going into 4L.

The next day when I started the truck, the ABS light was on when in 4H.

When pressing the CDL button, the light comes on and I hear a relay click under the dash.
Click to expand...

A few things come to mind but you need to fully describe what's occurring, making sure you start with vehicle turned off, in high range, CDL dash switch off.
Most of the testing to start with should be we the ignition turned on but without starting the engine.
After a few seconds of the key being turned on the ABS light should go off, no CDL light.
Pressing the CDL switch you should hear the relay click, and both ABS and CDL lights illuminate without being in low range
If you have to shift to low range to get the lights on indicates the Pin 7 mod was not done properly. The 4LOW position switch has no function or impact if the Pin 7 mode was done properly.

Please be specific which light(s) come on when you press the button, the CDL or the ABS and were either on before pressing?
Also know that while driving and the CDL switch is turned on, your speed exceeds 33mph, turning off the CDL switch turn off the CDL light but the ABS light stays on until the ignition is turned off.
 
ppc said:
A few things come to mind but you need to fully describe what's occurring, making sure you start with vehicle turned off, in high range, CDL dash switch off.
Most of the testing to start with should be we the ignition turned on but without starting the engine.
After a few seconds of the key being turned on the ABS light should go off, no CDL light.
Pressing the CDL switch you should hear the relay click, and both ABS and CDL lights illuminate without being in low range
If you have to shift to low range to get the lights on indicates the Pin 7 mod was not done properly. The 4LOW position switch has no function or impact if the Pin 7 mode was done properly.

Please be specific which light(s) come on when you press the button, the CDL or the ABS and were either on before pressing?
Also know that while driving and the CDL switch is turned on, your speed exceeds 33mph, turning off the CDL switch turn off the CDL light but the ABS light stays on until the ignition is turned off.
Click to expand...
Sorry if what I'm posting is confusing, I replied on my phone for the last one.

Current situation, ABS Light On = Constant (like the title). I just found the FSM and am going to test the continuity of the ABS Relay.

To answer your questions:
After a few seconds of the key being turned on the ABS light should go off, no CDL light. Currently, ABS light On, CDL Light off.

Pressing the CDL switch you should hear the relay click, and both ABS and CDL lights illuminate without being in low range. Pressing CDL, relay clicks, ABS Light On (never turns off), CDL light ON in High Range.

I do not have to be in low range to turn the CDL light on.

The 7 pin mod was done AFTER the ABS light on = constant problem occured. Sorry if that caused some confusion.

-Bart
 
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