'94 FZJ80 Conversion to Biodiesel / Vege-oil burner....

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Very interesting thread indeed. Coming from Yurp where diesel 80s are common and FZJs rare birds, I tend to consider gas Cruisers as an anomaly, as torque is way more important than peak power when it comes to crawling, no?
I'd love to convert my rig to Diesel, but unfortunately, the DMV rules in California are way stricter than TX's when its comes to conversion. Any clue on how to get it done?
 
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Grolar- from the threads I've followed and what I've read, getting a diesel into your 80 in CA is not as tough as you might think. You just need:

1. A diesel engine the same model year as your truck or newer

2. The engine must have been in use in passenger vehicles in the US (no Toyota 1HZs, etc.)

3. The engine must not have any emissions equipment removed (if any was on it originally)

And the great thing is no smog required once you put it in since there is no smog test for diesel in CA (yet)
 
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As for WVO, I have a source and am making a centrifuge processer that will be extremely easy when finished. You pretty much just pour the dirty oil into your processor (55 gallon drum) through a screen filter to catch the big stuff. At that point you flip a switch, let it run several hours and pump it into your tank. I am going to blend mine with old gasoline and maybe kerosene to thin it enough to drive, so I will throw that in at the end and let it mix a bit before pumping.
Again, I think the thing that people are overlooking (as I said earlier in this post) is that if you rebuild your original engine in say a 94 you are taking a $6,000 and maybe making it a $7,000 car. If you do a good clean looking conversion (engine choice probably doesn't even matter much) you are probably changing that to maybe a $20,000 car? Nothing to base it on except maybe what arcteryx paid for his and I assume it was more than the conversion cost? My point is that it is not money poured down the drain, even if you never recoup the expense in fuel cost you would if you sold it, plus you can feel good about drivng it, that to me is worth alot!
 
I'd love to convert my rig to Diesel, but unfortunately, the DMV rules in California are way stricter than TX's when its comes to conversion. Any clue on how to get it done?

Perhaps you misread earlier- Sethro and latoyota are in the Kali (Bay Area IIRC). Check with them, perhaps offline, should they choose not to publicly reveal their secrets regarding registrations for the Rep. of Kalifornia.

You are correct though, torque is always more important.
 
Wow,
I had a spare minute here at work and just did a search for "Grease Cruiser". Wow, you people have been busy. Where was I during this whole thread.......... oh, yeah buiding some 4BT Cruisers. We are finishing up a 40 and a 43.

Arcteryx: Can I have my 80 back? Pretty, pretty please? I have been driving my 2F FJ55 for the past couple of months and it's killing me. Got to get that 3B in there ASAP. Glad you like the 80.

On a serious note: I can't tell you how many people call me every day asking about diesel conversions into Cruisers.

This is what I tell them: Don't do it because you get better mileage. Don't do it to run alternative fuels (which I am all for).

Do it for one reason and one reason only. That reason is that you REALLY WANT A DIESEL CRUISER. That's all there is to it.

You can try to convince yourself that you will be saving money in the long run and that the engine will run forever, that you can run alternatice fuels, and, and, and yaddi, yaddi, mother f#$%ing yadda.

Yes, these are all valid points but the fact of the matter is...... diesel conversions are expensive. They are even more expensive when they are done right.

In reality, a GM 5.3 Vortec conversion is the most practical conversion there is for a Cruiser. You can practically do two of these conversions for the cost of a diesel. The mileage is not bad either...... about 20 mpg in a 80.

So, when diesel is $.50 more than gas, it is much more practical to drive a 5.3 powered 80 than a diesel 80.

With all that said, you will never find me driving anything but a diesel Cruiser. Well, I guess you would now since I am driving a 2F....... I got to get that 3B in the 55 ASAP.

That's all I have to say about that.
 
Here is what a 6.2 looks like in an 80. I took these after it was delivered to the exhaust/transmission shop today. Hopefully I will be able drive it in the next couple days and let you know how it works.
6.2LC2.webp
6.2LC5.webp
6.2LC6.webp
 
I have only seen factory 1hd-T and FT engines, the Canuck milage can be anywhere from 22 to 28MPG highway in stock form.

No body lift needed, direct bolt in and a bit of wiring in some cases, quiet and better power from my standpoint after owning several FZJ80s. Overall drive with the auto will not give the higher freeway speeds in the diesel as it revs quite high above 75MPH.


Me and my family did a ski trip, I measured how the gasser climbed the mountain passess, how it dropped gears constantly keeping the revs in the right spot compared to the diesel pulling hard in overdrive almost to the top of the pass.

This conversion is not performed for the payback in fuel, prolly more for the love of a diesel engine and the way it performs. You guys ever seen the UTube video of the BJ40 going underwater to the top of the snorkel and coming out the other end, you would need a fair bit of water proofing to have a 2F complete that water crossing.

Cheers.
Rob
 
I have only seen factory 1hd-T and FT engines, the Canuck milage can be anywhere from 22 to 28MPG highway in stock form.

No body lift needed, direct bolt in and a bit of wiring in some cases, quiet and better power from my standpoint after owning several FZJ80s. Overall drive with the auto will not give the higher freeway speeds in the diesel as it revs quite high above 75MPH.


Me and my family did a ski trip, I measured how the gasser climbed the mountain passess, how it dropped gears constantly keeping the revs in the right spot compared to the diesel pulling hard in overdrive almost to the top of the pass.

This conversion is not performed for the payback in fuel, prolly more for the love of a diesel engine and the way it performs. You guys ever seen the UTube video of the BJ40 going underwater to the top of the snorkel and coming out the other end, you would need a fair bit of water proofing to have a 2F complete that water crossing.

Cheers.
Rob

I hope you and John are getting lots of practice for my conversion.... :D
 
1HDFT and 5 speed

Hey guys, I am a fellow cruiser owner. I have owned 6 cruisers. After 911 I joined the Army reserves and since I had the oportunity to bring a 1HDFT (NOT a 1HDFT-E)and a 151 5 speed with transfer case from England. My intentions where to install it in my 93 FZJ80, but between my regular job and the Army deployments I have not had a chance to touch it in 2 years. My free time doesn't look like it is going to free up any time soon so I am thinking about selling it.

The parts are out of a 1996 and it had 82,000 km when it was crashed. The right side motor mount bracket is bent, ac compressor is missing, and the alternator has some damage. Other than that it is all there including the turbo and the shaft feels good. I am not exactly sure what I am going to ask for it but this is like a feeler to see what kind of interest it generates.

I know this is not the classifides but it seemed like some people in this thread would be interested.

Contact me at alejandro.anduzemoran@us.army.mil or 561-512-6046 cell.

Alex

PS parts are in WPB Florida
 
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At this late stage in the game--- by the time you get in line- and get your conversion from any of the ones like Proffits etc.......Toyota will have some form of diesel already hitting our shores which will likely be a bit more fuel friendly than the Cummins.
:hhmm:-
me..........."uh Cdan---id like to order the 2009 v-8diesel and h55f
along with the toy wiring harness adapter so i can leave
the stock one in my 80 series".

CDan....."sure thats parts numbers (insert multiple 2009 23digit part numbers
from memory). Retail on the engine and tranny
are $12500, but with your Mud discount and the group buy
discount.....it comes to $7200 plus what the little brown
man charges to deliver."

me..........."now youre sure this engine/tranny bolts directly up to the
80 series?"

Cdan........"yup Toyota wanted this to be plug and play for the
80/100series until the Troopy comes in 2011 at which time
Toyota will let you trade in your 80 on the 'buyer
appreciation plan' for a rolling Troopy and install the
diesel out of your 80 at no cost."

me.............":D"

Cdan............"yeah its part of Toyotas 2009 World Domination
initiative. With 2 day shipping-the little brown man can
have this to you by friday if youd like..........................."
 
One thing not being taken into consideration is the availability of petrol. While I would be willing to bet that it will never run out in our lifetime, or hope not anyway, it wont be around forever, and wont be as cheap as it is now forever (and it is not cheap). Diesel, or its Bio derivative, will be available forever. Beyond that, the range. At 22mpg, you can go much, much farther than you can on a tank at 13mpg, which only really becomes an issue when a gas station is not available.
 
You could try the route I am taking, 05' hummer 325hp 6.0 flex fuel compatable motor with a 4L65E. I wont get the MPG of the 4bt but you have a few different fuel sources to choose from and It will get better mpg than stock with WAY more vroom vroom. I was going to do the 4BT unitl proffits talked me out of it with the many they have done. I will honestly tell you what I think of it when I am done. I have ALL the parts from AA, proffits, howell, the 6.0/4l65/fj60 t-case ready to bolt in when I get finished with some other projects in a few weeks. I know it will have more than enough pwr, it will be interesting to see the MPG, hoping for 15mpg..ish.
 
Dave thanks for chiming in here, this is all correct info...

Well, having had my 4BT powered Princess for damn near a year, I can speak first hand about parts availability, maintenance and fuel mileage.

Parts are readily available and cheap due to the fact that almost all parts that came on a 1st generation Dodge 12V will fit on a 4BT. We don't have Schucks stores, but here in Austin you can buy alternators any where from $45 to $100 for my 4BT. A starter can be a little more..ranging from $100 for a rebuilt one on up to several hundred for a heavy duty new one. I recently replaced my water pump for $60 new. The only big dollar item that IS expensive to replace is the injection pump (IP). The IP can be rebuilt, but since it is a complicated device, only trained mechanics can work on them...which accounts for the hefty price to rebuild it (anywhere from $700 ~ $1k).

Maintenance is not a big deal as well. As mentioned before, parts are shared with the mass produced first gen Dodge turbo diesels (filters, etc). The oil sump is bigger, so your total oil change cost for a DIYer would be a little more.

Lastly, fuel consumption. My heavy ass truck with 35's and a roof rack gets 20mpg consistenly, but does drop down to 18mpg if I'm heavy on the skinny pedal. If I were to keep the truck as close to stock and run 31's or 33's, then I can see it getting mid 20's mpg.

Like Jason says, let us know if you are ever in Austin and want to take a ride on a 4BT powered cruiser.
 
Sorry guys just catching up on this thread as well. I agree it is not for the faint of heart or wallet unfortunately. The only difference between it and say a Vortec conversion though is the cost of hte engine and that you need a diesel-specific trans if you are using an automatic, so most of the time you buy this new or rebuilt (which also adds up the $$). If oyu can find a used 4BT in verifiably good shape for say $2500, it is only $1G more than than Vortec conversion. The engine is loud and industrial and heavy duty. With my FJ55 spurng over also on 35's with 4.10 gears, I was 20 mpg for the low and about 25 to even 27 mpg high, but I averaged about 22mpg. This is not a "given" for the engine, I think the biggest difference is the transmission. Proffitts is using a 700R4 which is an old school style transmission that sucks a lot of power and efficiency out of the engine. I really do think a standard would make a lot of difference with the conversion. You do need that 4" of lift, and to get good hgiway gearing with the low 4.10 axles you want big tires like a 35". So you have to be prepared to have a massive loud diesel Land Cruiser that stands out, is super off-roadish, and people can hear from a mile away. It is a mixed blessing.

The Cummins itself is super relatible. I did a compression test on mine with 186k and it is literally in perfect condition. The engine is also brilliantly simple in pretty much every way. A head gasket job takes a couple hours only for example. So I am not advocating it, I think you need to be prepared for it and understand what to expect. Sort of like a beautiful redhead with beautiful large breasts, looks great but you get the whole package if you marry her... Sometimes its what you want and expect, sometimes its not... So just an FYI, think with your head on it not your johnson. Especially considering the costs if you are not a millionaire and don't have the time or ability to do it yourself. The cost is a **a lot** of money...

So just my $.02 on it...

But gaskets / maintenance intervals / alternators, all of this is actually fairly cheap. Fuel filters / oil filters less than $6/8 direct from Cummins and very high quality (Fleetguard). When you first swap it you'll waste a couple filters prematurely possibly like any swap but you should be fine... Good diesel motor oil is annoyingly expensive and you need 8 quarts, but you get used to it. The alternator is GM and is basic as they come. I have never paid more than $100 for even a 160 amp alternator (it is the same alternator as a Chevy Caprice). The Cummins usually come with a common 55 amp alternator but these are literally a dime a dozen and high and low amp alternators interchange. The injection pump is about $650 for a brand new or rebuild. It takes the place of all ignition parts and fuel components all in one small package which is surprizingly reliable. So really not a whole lot to go wrong on. You can find all parts any parts store under the part number for a Gen 1 Dodge Cummins, almost all parts interchangable. NAPA, CarQuest, Parts Plus also carry all parts specifically for the 4BT. But either being mechanically inclined or "resourceful" does help. You will have something unique, so you have to take that into account.
 
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another thing to consider, we just got home from a little snow wheelin trip, tried to take my cummins on part of the trail AND FORGET IT! just like last time it sank like a rock, kinda embarassing to leave your rig at the trail-head and hop in a gasser. My buddies gasser has tall skinnies (34x10.50's) but it still stayed on top of the snow way better than mine with wider rubber. Also be prepared to be kinda unbalanced on extremely off camber trails, rocks, hill climbs etc... The 4bt is a BAD ass power plant but not for everyone. Great for DD expedition type rigs.
 
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How much does the 4BT weigh? The 6.2 I used is about the same weight as the 1FZE so hopefully it won't affect the off road worthiness of it any. I only have about 25 miles on mine so far (before the trans went out) but it feels great on the road.
Rusty
 
Just curious, if its costing up to 20k for a turn-key diesel cruiser, why not just go with the 1HD-FTE? Its harder to find I hear, but it should pretty much bolt straight in, right? And if you got it with the trans, that takes a huge chunk out of the fab work, unless Im totally off my rocker.... What is making it a less favorable option? Also, dont the Aussies report roughly 25mpg on the 1HD-FTE? Thats more than double what Im doing right now, which would save me ~150-200 a month in fuel....



EDIT: The 1HD-FTE is the newer more powerful of the Toy Diesels, correct? I always get confused. Also, just found a post where someone said the half cut for a 1HD-FTE was well over 10k... hmm.
 
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I'd be surprised if the Aussies are reporting a fuel economy average of 25mpg. That might be the freeway speed steady state MPG. I just want be sure people are getting accurate info. It's common in discussions for people to report the MPG they once got one time on one trip and it was the best ever. As noted earlier in this thread I don't think that's accurate.

Again, it needs to be established WHY someone is considering a diesel conversion. If it's to save money, then forget it - you're dreaming. If it's to tow, buy a 10 year old gasoline F250 for $8000 (half the cost of a conversion and it will tow way better than an 80) for when you need it. If it's to have something unique, fine - makes sense then.

DougM
 
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