'94 80 Series MAF Issues - LC Dies as soon as peddle is depressed

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Jul 8, 2014
So I've been searching the forums trying to figure out what the issue is with LB. Up until now, the issue has been as follows:
Insert Key, Turn to On: No CEL, Cranks, but doesn't start.

Replaced Fuseible Links, check EFI relay and Fuse, Checked ECU: All Good

On a hunch, I disconnected the wiring harness at the MAF. Sure enough, when I turned the key to on the CEL turned on and it fired right up! However, as soon as I apply throttle is dies immediately.

So...now what?
If you removed the MAF harness by removing the two screws and pulled on it, then you are screwed.
You will have to open it up and re-solder the connections. Many posts here with good pics.
There's no MAF in a '94. It's a VAF. Volume or Vane air flow meter. aka barn door air meter.

Like powermad said, if you took the screws out, you ruined it.

It turns out that i recently pulled a VAF off of a '94 at a junk yard, since i wondered if i might need it some day, and i might sell it.
It would seem that is exactly what I have done. I now feel like a complete moron. If you'll excuse me, I'm going to go bang my head on something hard as punishment.

So.....Timpanogos Slim....thinking about getting rid of that VAF?
It would seem that is exactly what I have done. I now feel like a complete moron.

Don't feel too bad, consider it a lesson learned. I did the exact same thing years ago, and now I don't "tinker" with the truck anymore. I study the FSM, study 'Mud, and then proceed with knowledge.
Update to anyone interested: Thanks to this awesome picture from @FrankTorres in this post, I was able to open up the sealed lid of the guts of the FAV\AFM\MAF, and repair the internal workings enough to get it started and running! If I ever get to meet @FrankTorres in real life, I owe this guy several beers.

For anyone who has loosed the two screws of death and doesn't have the ~$250 to shell out for a new AFM\MAF\VAF (whatever it's correctly titled), it is possible (especially with that picture!!!) to repair the AFM to at least a working state. You can cut along the caulked\sealed top with a sharp razor, then open it up to see the inner workings and solder the broken pieces. My soldering skills aren't amazing, so I'm not going to call it "permanently fixed" but it runs, it moves, it drives (over short distances, anyway).

Granted, if I hit one solid bump in the road, I'm sure it'd die immediately, but it'll do to move it around my garage until I have the money to replace the part.

Or you can avoid all this mess and not mess with the screws of death! :bang:
:lol: glad you got running :)
Pick up a used AFM from any of the sources available to you. There are used parts dealers on this forum (Cruiseryard.com and Cruiserparts.net), there's a nationwide search engine on car-part.com, and there are folks parting out trucks all the time in the classified section.
You have options.

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