94 4runner SAS

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Joined
Nov 1, 2011
Threads
10
Messages
293
Location
Asheville NC
At the beginning of the summer I traded into a non running 94 4runner with a torn appart 3.0 and a 5spd backing it up. Got it running and threw some extra wheels I had laying around to use it for DD duty and weekend trail rides. During this period I started collecting parts to build it into my version of an ultimate adventure vehicle. I wanted to run any trail I put it on but not need a trailer. After my 4x4 club's october trail ride I decided to start torching.

The build list:
used 3in TG springs front and rear
-84/85 front axle, creeper gussets, TG wipers, high steer, low pinion e-locker, 5.29 gears, and ifs hub/cruiser rotor swap
-97 4runner rear axle, e-locker, 5.29 gears
-Stock tcase for now(2.94 low range)
-2inx2in sliders
-Stock ifs steering box
-35x12.50x15 Goodyear MTR's
-15x10 Eaton beadlock rims

How it looked when it came home
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Running driving after tracking down all missing parts and sensors, threw on some 33s with cheapo rubber spacers in the rear.
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It was SAS'd but Lost the pictures (edited 2022)
 
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Got it thrown together for the club's December trail ride
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So 10 years later "Fiona" is still kicking and has had years of utter neglect and a few shots in the arm to keep it going.

Only real changes for the longest time was ditching the steel beadlocks because they were not straight. Put 15x8 Alcoa's on with a sharp machined safety bead and was able to run down to 3PSI regularly without any issues. 35in MTRs were amazing and got 30k miles being a trailer-less trail rig. Playing on tougher trails brought in an Inchworm clockable dual case setup with 23 spline inputs throughout. And a winch was hastily tossed on before a Slade KY trip in 2015 or so..

The past decade has had it wheeling most weekends for the first few years. All over OH, KY, WV, TN
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Other than the body taking some hits it did everything I wanted for many years. Only issues were a broken longfield up front and a roached ring/pinion in the rear.
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I think that brings us up to 2017 or so
 
2017-18
Did some harder trails and had less care for the body but the 4runner just kept chugging along... Headlights replaced or fixed too many times, same with tail lights.

After that life got complicated with moving 400mi from my hometown to a rental so into storage she went. MTRs came off to try to keep them from dry rotting but a couple years went by so I ended up selling them while they had some life left and thew some rollers on.
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I did end up getting Fiona back in the mix. Threw some 37s on it and fixed some general neglect enough for a Harlan run in 2020
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Subsequently popped a side gear on the elocker, surprisingly not the one that engages the locker but found a full new set in Saudi Arabia
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And found chipped teeth on the ring gear
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So full rebuild with new gears, bearings etc.. from a local builder.
 
It sat awaiting funds and rebuild most of 21' but did get out at the end of the season for a great Harlan trip.
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After that life got complicated again so what better way to spend your time at an apartment with no tow rig... then to drive your off road rig 400mi to live with no garage.
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Surprisingly it made it the whole drive without any issue and got 17mpg from OH to NC on 37s.


Several weeks later the water pump started leaking...
 
I do have a good friend with a driveway I can take advantage of so cooling system rebuild commenced.
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Ended up replacing:
Water Pump (full Aisin kit)
Idlers
Timing Belt/tensioner
T-Stat
Radiator (CSF brass)
Alternator
Belts

Now back to DD duties when I'm not hauling my kids to school. Oh yeah, she fits riiiight in with co-workers rides.

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So what next; I had a trip planned for the end of the month to drive 4hrs up to Slade KY to run with some of my buddies from Ohio in their buggies which was pushing the coolant fix but that just became a family trip. So I'll take the FJ since its less likely to have issues and we'll just follow the buggies between obstacles and/or jump on the DBBB and cruise some easier stuff.

Last bit of trip preparation I had was to go through the knuckles/bearings. Before the last Harlan runs I had thrashed to get it together for as cheaply as possible but had to fix a couple broken knuckle studs. Put on the ARP ones from front range and found the trunnion bearings were shot but didn't have the parts on hand to do anything about it, so I just pulled shims till they were "tight". I got the new bearings, shims and all new wheel bearings for the front ready to go on but just need a weekend to do it. Rear is all new top-bottom so that's squared away and front brakes are all new. With the cooling redone all fluids are fresh.

Dual cases- They have always leaked and ran warm on long highway legs, I hope they are leaking from the shifters and just need to ensure the baffles are there and re-seal them. Eventually want to put 4.7s in the rear case but we'll see.

Gas tank- Over the years it has lost ~1/4 capacity due to dents, when I hit 1/4 on the gauge its OUT and is not handy for long trips, looks like there are some reasonable aftermarket replacements and will have to build a heavy skid plate. I don't mind the location, just needs a skid.

3.0 may be a turd of a motor but it has survived some abuse, regularly saw 6000 RPM offroad, would run ice cold A/C on 90 degree days (much to the dismay of Jeeps overheating) and regularly got 17mpg at every stage of the "build". Only things I did to it were put the "Flamethower" injectors in circa 2012/13 and kept good oil in it. The cooling overhaul was the furthest I had gone into it. It also sat for 1-2 years for a couple stretches which killed the coolant. 243k miles and still ticking along.
 
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Heart of gold!
 
What is the "new" normal for leaf springs for mini trucks?

Once upon a time (circa 2008-10) the recipe was 3in TG springs up front and 4in rears to support the heavier 4runner caboose. I didn't even do that, picked up used 3" fronts and rears with a 6" rear shackle/4in front to level out, also the 3" had a higher spring rate. Over the years the drivers side rear spring has sagged out 1.5-2in and the front drivers side is about the same. So I'm considering new springs, originally it was built as a short trip trail rig I.E. minimal spares/gear and running heavy rock. Starting to get into longer trips with kiddos, more gear etc..

General specs: 2nd gen 3VZ 5speed, Dual cases, 37s and 60" WMS rear axle and minimal armor. Might go to rear swing out/fuel can holder.

Also wheel update to newer gen 17s a'la @gnob Style :lol:
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-Allpro was a nicer spring than TG but now they are all under the same TG brand
-Deaver is out of budget
-Would like to keep mounts as is so Chevy 63s may be out
-Sky USA springs are not designed for added weight nor 4runners

Current TG mini springs
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Also springs are way more expensive than I remember... $1k for full set of TG springs?!?

As the devils advocate, the sagged out stance is nice. Maybe I just need to mix/match leafs left to right to get everything to sit level and just run it :hillbilly:

So whats Mud's opinion on it?
 
If budget is your primary concern can you buy some junkyard springs and cut/add/replace a couple leaves?
Its not a "primary" concern but dropping a grand on a pair of leaf springs seems overkill when you could do a coil/shock 4 link for about that 😅

But yes I have a leaf spring stash I could make bastard packs from which may be a decent option.
 
Its not a "primary" concern but dropping a grand on a pair of leaf springs seems overkill when you could do a coil/shock 4 link for about that 😅

But yes I have a leaf spring stash I could make bastard packs from which may be a decent option.

You COULD do links. But leaf springs are so easy, simple, and cheap. And they WORK!

I drive Toyotas because you can do SO much on such a minimal build. I could spend $30k building a “proper crawler” (LS, tons, stickies), but a “classic” toyota build is almost as good and it has that dirtbag feel to it which is (was?) the best part of wheeling. Go to any wheeling event now and it’s clear the hobby has turned into a classic pay-to-play affair. I still sleep in a tent and eat beef jerky.
 
You COULD do links. But leaf springs are so easy, simple, and cheap. And they WORK!

I drive Toyotas because you can do SO much on such a minimal build. I could spend $30k building a “proper crawler” (LS, tons, stickies), but a “classic” toyota build is almost as good and it has that dirtbag feel to it which is (was?) the best part of wheeling. Go to any wheeling event now and it’s clear the hobby has turned into a classic pay-to-play affair. I still sleep in a tent and eat beef jerky.
Amen and also I've built several leaf rigs and none linked ones for that reason.

I'll also argue leaf springs ability to have a "neutral" state they want to go to when flexing is really good too. I've watched even well done links have weird/bad characteristics on trails either side hilling or drooping out. Leaf springs when flexing past their neutral state give a negative spring force that acts like a soft sway bar.

The most likely outcome of this is mix leafs left-right and toss an extra leaf in the rear for weight. Use the money I would have dropped on springs and replace my $200 Crapagonia tires with something worth running.

On the "propper" crawler thing, my buddies went to truggies/buggies a while ago. Sure they can do hero lines but my old junk is right there for 95% of the other obstacles sitting dry with heat and A/C 😄

I have a kingpin 60, some HO72s and a 1UZ that was going to be a buggy build. But I don't think I'd like it, ended up selling the ancillary air shocks, fuel cell etc.. but saved the drivetrain if I want to bump to 40s or the 3.slow ever gives up.
 
show me where you can link for a G, when one shock cost that. ? 🤣

im a jerky eating dirtbag too :flipoff2:
Says the man on Diamonds 🤣

The spring/shock combo was the key there.. I was thinking OE fj80 coils and Monroe white rockets for an F350..

You guys can afford jerkey?!?! 😅
 
Says the man on Diamonds 🤣

The spring/shock combo was the key there.. I was thinking OE fj80 coils and Monroe white rockets for an F350..

You guys can afford jerkey?!?! 😅
have you seen the price of oe yota axles these days. can you find straight ones? lol

my diamond fiasco was painful for a long time. im still a little bitter honestly.
 
Fair point, and no all mine have made knuckle soup. I saw the fiasco (wtf diamond) and as much as it pains me, if I wanted to stay mini truck based I'd likely grab a TG fabricated 67" housing/shafts after seeing their 9in stuff in person.

The other idea I had was building a front Eaton ho72, I have a LP ford kingpin 60 to steal the tubes/inner Cs from. The Eatons are awesome with a 10.5" dropout 3rd with load bolt and I have 3 with 5.14 gears.

But all that will have to wait till I'm back in a place with a garage 😁
 
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Prepping for GSMTR, 4runner's first real trip in who knows how long.

Fresh tires/wheels.. New chandelier in a haunted house as it were. 🤔

37x13.50 Razrs to get D load rated instead of E's. Vision beadlocks are rather nice too.
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Also got a new gas tank, years of getting falcon punched lost 1/4 tank capacity and this fauxverlander needs range. Stock skid was obviously not sufficient, still figuring out reinforcements. Only broke 10 bolts getting it all changed over 😅 I hate Ohio vehicles.

Also rear shock mounts were just cobbled junk thats rusted off so they're getting redone, which will be connected to other rust because that's whats there. I'd love to curse the PO who stabbed the old ones on but t'was me 😂

Made some new shackles out of sandwiched 3/16" plates, the M18 bolt head is captured by the outer plate so it can't rotate relative to the shackle. Also has a cute little cross piece for lateral support.
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