91 Fj80

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Hello,
Have been thinking about getting rid of my rusty FJ62 and getting a FJ80. A local guy has one for sale w/ factory lockers and 99K on the odometer. I have not had a chance to check it out yet, but what do you think is a fair price?

Toyota Land Cruiser 99k
 
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Factory lockers weren't available until 1993. This one only has a center diff lock. Personally, I wouldn't get anything but a 93 to 97 with factory lockers. Better engine and tranny too.
 
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I love my 91, and so do many other 3fe owners. I paid $3k for mine, i have alot more miles but no rust issues. Looks like it has a miss match of tires. I would try to get the price down significantly, or pass
 
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I love my 91, and so do many other 3fe owners. I paid $3k for mine, i have alot more miles but no rust issues. Looks like it has a miss match of tires. I would try to get the price down significantly, or pass

Yes, I personally don't have an issue w/ the 3FE. It is the same engine my 62 has. I guess I'll have to check it out and see how firm he is on price. 99k in my opinion is pretty good mileage on a 3fe considering how long they last, etc. I think the 93 to 97's are a little out of my price range. I really want a 40 but I have a little one on the way and a 40 just wouldn't be practical.
 
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i like my 91 just fine. the 3FE is a good motor .. mine has been cross country from south florida to cali 2 times so far and will go anywhere i wanna go .. 160K on the clock and just regular stuff has gone wrong. Once you PM it no worries .. No PHH no HEAD GASKET issues
 
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The ad says "diff lock" which refers to the center diff lock button on the dash which was standard issue in 91/92. This doesn't mean "factory lockers" which refers to front and rear locking diffs.

Motor and tranny are bulletproof, but like any other used vehicle past history and maintenance will always be issues.

Toyman317 says better engine and tranny. Newer motor has more HP for sure, but better transmission? Meh.
 
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Thank you for your thoughts. I now realize there is a difference between lockers and the center diff. Hopefully I can take a look at it by the end of the week. I don't really think the A440 tranny is bad at all. If you use a transmission cooler and are diligent about changing the ATF they should last a long time. There is a thread in the 60s sectin regarding the auto tranny and there are people who have exceeded 300k miles on them.
 
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I sold my 62 about a year ago and had to get back into the sport. I really wanted one without rust, I am a mechanic and I can fix anything but rust. I just bought a 92' with 118K on the clock it cost me six but has no rust. I like it because it has the same drive train as the 62. If I could do it over again, I would drop the dough on a super clean 62 (although it seems those could cost over 10K).

I guess what I'm trying to say is you will miss your 62 but the 80 is nice i love the 3fe and a440
 
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I believe you can get a 93-97 with lockers for the same money if you are patient. I just did. 127k on the clock and it runs and looks great. No rust. The extra HP is great. I am not putting down other models. They are all good. As you can see in my signature, I have a sampling of them. Anyone want to buy a 60? Got a couple nice ones.
 
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I.M.O the price is about $1,500 over what its worth, not that I (or anyone) should dictate what you think the color and miles are worth. Generally 3fe's should should go for around $3k or less, and I reserve anything over for color and mileage.

Pretty much I consider 0-300k miles all the same, IOW's, what fails on these motors and when? You'll waist your time searching...NOTHING!


The people that say 1fz the most use this only as there reason why.

3fe- 154 h.p @ 4,000 rpm and 220 ft lbs @ 3,000

and most of the reason for this power is it has only an 8.1:1 compression ratio, which can be good, can be bad. It wont throw you back in the seat but it should burn water (so to speak) GEAR driven timing means NO belts NO chains, Iron head is WAAAYYYYYY less prone to damage in an emergency/ sudden coolant loss situation and cheaper at the $hop ;)

1fz is 212 h.p @ 4,000 rpm and 275 ft lbs @3,200 rpm.

c.r for the 1fz is 9.0:1, if you could get a 3fe to 9.0 economically it would be killer and it should still burn low test.



...
 
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I.M.O the price is about $1,500 over what its worth, not that I (or anyone) should dictate what you think the color and miles are worth. Generally 3fe's should should go for around $3k or less, and I reserve anything over for color and mileage.

Pretty much I consider 0-300k miles all the same, IOW's, what fails on these motors and when? You'll waist your time searching...NOTHING!


The people that say 1fz the most use this only as there reason why.

3fe- 154 h.p @ 4,000 rpm and 220 ft lbs @ 3,000

and most of the reason for this power is it has only an 8.1:1 compression ratio, which can be good, can be bad. It wont throw you back in the seat but it should burn water (so to speak) GEAR driven timing means NO belts NO chains, Iron head is WAAAYYYYYY less prone to damage in an emergency/ sudden coolant loss situation and cheaper at the $hop ;)

1fz is 212 h.p @ 4,000 rpm and 275 ft lbs @3,200 rpm.

c.r for the 1fz is 9.0:1, if you could get a 3fe to 9.0 economically it would be killer and it should still burn low test.



...

Is that what they are worth in your eyes or do have a price book to go buy. Not to argue but Kelly blue book says a 91 with 250k on the clock is worth around 4800. But i just wanted to ask:D
 
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Is that what they are worth in your eyes or do have a price book to go buy. Not to argue but Kelly blue book says a 91 with 250k on the clock is worth around 4800. But i just wanted to ask:D


KBB is :censor:

KBB doesn't live in my town, drink my water, know what my market is, my tax rate, advg fuel price, economic statice.... ;)


I think there daily de-value calculator broke, because I simply refuse to believe a 17 y.o, 250k mile vehicle would be worth that much....:confused:.......

researching the market will get you better results than the ol' standby. And I mean of the ones that sold, not the ones bumped, reposted or replaced...:hmm: I know of an auction site where people do that allot....:hmm:


Yeah, and Carfax is a little gem to :rolleyes:


:flipoff2:

sorry you asked :D
...
 
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Guess it does depend where you live:rolleyes: But i would pay a higher dollar for something well maintained with n0 rust or beat all too shiot. i'd also say peolple spend what they can afford. I did sale a 85 pickup for 4500 of course it was solid with no rust issues. And the market/economy has nothing to do with what a vehicle is worth in my opinion, thats just an excuse. People say the econmy is bad in my area but, if that was the case the malls and shopping centers would be closed due to no sales.

And finally its a Yota people pay for qaulity :grinpimp:
 
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That kbb price is I think is a suggested retail value. It is not the private seller value or the trade in value. You have room to negotiate from the kbb price. One that is well maintained/low mileage/taken care of is worth a little extra though.
 
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The price seems reasonable to me but of course you really need to inspect it close up. I looked for the last month at several and finally found a 97 about 2.5 hours away with 208K on the clock. Additionally, the best place I found to look was in the classifieds on MUD. There is a nice one that bthelton is selling in NC that has just been painted and from what I understand, has had all the maintenance done. 246K or so on the clock but no rust to contend with. I believe his price was less than what you are looking at however after travel expense, you might be in the same ballpark. It is amazing how well these vehicles keep their value. There was a 91 on fleabay recently with 260K+ that had a buy it now for $6K and it sold. Location makes a difference but odds are, you will always get your money out of it and if you maintain it correctly, you could end up with a vehicle that runs near 400K.

Just my .02

Tripper
 
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Yeah I have checked out bthelton's a couple of times. I am not in a hurry and if I can find one in Ohio that is in good shape I would prefer to go that route instead of an 8-10 hour drive to check one out. It may be worth it if what I find locally is rusted and a rust free southern truck is available in my pricie range. I would prefer to find one from a mudder that has had the suspension upgraded and perhaps a arb up front. bthelton's is a little bit to stock for the distance it is from me. We shall see. Anyone need parts from a FJ62? It has 165k on the odometer. It really would only be good for transportation or parts. The frame is pretty rusty and there are some patches welded in around the rear wheel well. This is the major reason I am looking for an FJ80. I may part it out or if I were to come across an early 80 w/ a blown motor, but had some goodies, I would consider an engine swap, if the price was right.

The price seems reasonable to me but of course you really need to inspect it close up. I looked for the last month at several and finally found a 97 about 2.5 hours away with 208K on the clock. Additionally, the best place I found to look was in the classifieds on MUD. There is a nice one that bthelton is selling in NC that has just been painted and from what I understand, has had all the maintenance done. 246K or so on the clock but no rust to contend with. I believe his price was less than what you are looking at however after travel expense, you might be in the same ballpark. It is amazing how well these vehicles keep their value. There was a 91 on fleabay recently with 260K+ that had a buy it now for $6K and it sold. Location makes a difference but odds are, you will always get your money out of it and if you maintain it correctly, you could end up with a vehicle that runs near 400K.

Just my .02

Tripper
 
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I think you can find more accurate pricing at edmunds site? but as others have said it all depends on the buyer, and timing
 

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