Looking for a rear e-locker 3rd out of a 80 series in working order. Or even just the actuator for one if you have one.
Thanks,
Thanks,
9.5" e-locker
- Thread starter Wheelingnoob
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The housing looks like it is aluminum. Someone with a lathe might be able to machine one up quickly. I know a semi-retired machinist off of Old Yale Rd here in Abby that probably could do that for you.
Just to be sure, point out the "housing" that crumbled.
Just to be sure, point out the "housing" that crumbled.
Okay, I've read a bit more. Seems to be a very common problem caused by a crappy breather hose which breaks easily allowing water in. If you do go the custom route, you will have to glue the magnets in properly with the correct N - S orientation. This should help...
Milner Off Road has new ones at 390 BP ($628) plus shipping. But if all you need is what is pictured above and you can't find it used, you could likely get it made for a lot less. Have you asked Sheldon or Greg?
Milner Off Road has new ones at 390 BP ($628) plus shipping. But if all you need is what is pictured above and you can't find it used, you could likely get it made for a lot less. Have you asked Sheldon or Greg?
- Thread starter
- #4
The housing looks like it is aluminum. Someone with a lathe might be able to machine one up quickly. I know a semi-retired machinist off of Old Yale Rd here in Abby that probably could do that for you.
Just to be sure, point out the "housing" that crumbled.
The part on mine that crumbled is the large housing with the harness and breather. The part that fell appart is what that cap with the magnets bolts to. The aluminu expanded so much as it corroded that is deformed the magnet cap as well. I have never seen aluminum turn into power to quite this existent.
That really sucks Jeremy. I hope you can find a used one. You might also try Mike Mc-T. You never know what he has. I assume you have already asked Steve and John at Radd.
If you have to buy new, you may consider spending a few extra $ for an ARB or maybe just put in an LSD.
I've noticed with my alloys lot more surface corrosion on the alloys where steel and alloy touch since road maintenance has started using that liquid salt. Maybe it is just coincidence. At any rate, before I put on my winter alloys this fall, I gave both contact surfaces a good coating of anti-seize compound.
If you have to buy new, you may consider spending a few extra $ for an ARB or maybe just put in an LSD.
I've noticed with my alloys lot more surface corrosion on the alloys where steel and alloy touch since road maintenance has started using that liquid salt. Maybe it is just coincidence. At any rate, before I put on my winter alloys this fall, I gave both contact surfaces a good coating of anti-seize compound.
I still have a complete working 410 version for sale. No damage, never wheeled.
- Thread starter
- #7
I plan on calling both this morning.
At this rate it would be cheaper to replace it with an ARB problem is the axle housing on the e-locker axle is different than a non e-locker axle. So to fit an ARB I would need a non e-locker axle as well.
I hope to have a quote from Toyota in an hour or so for a few options.
Have a read through this thread. You'll find some good info in there for putting it back together and protecting it.
80 Series - Rear diff lock actuator • Land Cruiser Club and Forum
BTW, I see that Slee sells a skid plate to protect it from branches and rocks. Not a bad idea given how much it costs to replace.
80 Series - Rear diff lock actuator • Land Cruiser Club and Forum
BTW, I see that Slee sells a skid plate to protect it from branches and rocks. Not a bad idea given how much it costs to replace.
If you replace the whole 3rd member with another e.locker or otherwise, I may be interested in your old one. Might be worth messing around trying to convert it to some kind of cable shift actuator
.Edit: I expect going to a non-locker housing would not require much other than the replacement studs on the housing. You can re-use your axle shafts in an arb. The axle housing has a notch for the actuator but that won't be a problem either. Going off what it takes to retrofit a locker into a non-locked housing anyways...
- Thread starter
- #10
Yeah I plan to get the Slee skid plate for it.
If you replace the whole 3rd member with another e.locker or otherwise, I may be interested in your old one. Might be worth messing around trying to convert it to some kind of cable shift actuator
Edit: I expect going to a non-locker housing would not require much other than the replacement studs on the housing. You can re-use your axle shafts in an arb. The axle housing has a notch for the actuator but that won't be a problem either. Going off what it takes to retrofit a locker into a non-locked housing anyways...
I will probably hold onto it and try to make it work on the front of my brothers 60 with a cable or air actuator.
Going to a non e locker housing would require nothing other than the housing its self. Its still a possibility, I did see a ARB 9.5" re geared to 4.88 for about $1000. No idea what a non e-locker housing will cost me.
- Thread starter
- #11
Well may have a couple options for replacement e-lockers. A guy I got lots of parts from down south when I was rebuilding my truck has a few for $500 all working and under 100k miles. Steve may also have a line on one and is going to find out a price today. Radd also has 2 working e-lockers as well and they are going to call me back a bit later this afternoon to let me know a cost.
Did I mention that I have a working e locker third available in tri cities area? You can be wheeling ready in under an hour.
- Thread starter
- #13
Sorry missed your post earlier, I PMed you.
I seen a few housings at ATEB that were corroded pretty badly. They were from vehicles that seen a lot of mud puddles, with mild surface rust on the axles. I just had mine resealed recently after seeing those examples, and when they were opened up they had some slight corrosion around the seal area, and contacts. I agree the brine they have been using on the road is pretty aggressive, I really noticed more surface rust forming underneath my truck from last winter, than from previous winters.
- Thread starter
- #15
Yeah it was pretty bad, I'm going to try the JB wels and some silicone in the next few days to see if I can at least get the truck mobile again. I picked up a $300 car last night so the truck is no longer on the road, hope to avoid the salt and crap eating away on the truck.
Yeah, I did the same and picked up a 86' VW Golf, with low kms for it's age. It's nice to drive a 5spd stick again, not counting a brief stint in a 95' Saab. Not sure if it was the built in quirks, but the shifting in that car was horrible, felt like the shift linkage was made of rubber, but the rest of it was nice.
- Thread starter
- #18
Thanks all, I was able to clean mine up and fix the corroded area of the housing. I got it back together and also got the locker working again. I tested it in the snow on Saturday and all is well works much faster than it did before.
Bingo. I rebuilt mine 3 times due to water before I smartened up and replaced the breather hose and extended it all the way into the rear hatch area.
- Thread starter
- #20
Bingo. I rebuilt mine 3 times due to water before I smartened up and replaced the breather hose and extended it all the way into the rear hatch area.
Yeah my breather tube is in good shape. Next time I'm in the quarter panel I will extend it up a bit. As it is right now thought its higher and dryer than my diff breathers.