89 truck runs 10 miles then dies

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Dec 18, 2006
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i have an 89 v6 4x4 , it will run 10 miles then acts like it has clogged fuel filter and dies , changed filter and is still doing it . if you wait a few minutes it will start and run another 10 miles . any suggestions
 
First thing before replacing anything is to pull codes out the ECU. In tank rust could be a problem. It could also mean it is losing tne RPM signal to the ECU.
 
First thing before replacing anything is to pull codes out the ECU. In tank rust could be a problem. It could also mean it is losing tne RPM signal to the ECU.
im in west texas dont think its rust , and there was not a bunch of rust in the filter . do you have to have a machine to pull codes ?
 
No for that year you should have a diagnostic plug in the engine bay bypassing terminals E1 and T1 with the key on should make the MIL light to blink. A code 12 is one blink _pause_ two blinks should indicate the ECU lost the RPM signal. I am looking at Haynes for the picture of the diagnostic pluc but it does not have it. I got this picture from some site it probably will mess you
Bridge E1 & TE1 in the DIAGNOSTICS port
____________
l l
l [ ] [ ] [ ] l
l [ ] [ ] [ ] l
l l
l [ ] [ ] l
l l
l [X] [ ] [ ] l
l [ ] [X] [ ] l
l [ ] [ ] [ ] l
l___________l

Maybe it will help you once you find the diagnostic plug the X's stand for the terminals to be bridge. I wa trying to paste the actual picture but had no luck.

You can find the actual picture at truckforum.org, but I managed to upload it. If the engine has no codes it will just give you one blink all the time while the k is on.
toy_diag.gif
 
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After it dies on you and will not start see if you have spark going to the plugs. Looks like you will have to do a process of elimination to see if it is lacking fuel or spark. Good luck keep us posted on what the problem is.
 
It should look like a small squre rectangle. with a cover. I think it should be near the fuse box in the engine bay. It is a rectangular plug it will have a cover. With some imagination you should relate it to the picture I posted. Or better yet go by your local autozone and ask the guy at the counter, just ask to the right guy he should know. Like I said use a piece of wire to connect E1 and T1 turn the key on and if there is a problem in the engine management system it will start flashing the codes. If it loses the RPM signal it could give you 12 or 13. I find that the wire used for thermostats in residential A/C makes a good tool for that.
 
after you pull codes also check and see if the fuel pressure regulator is failing.
 
Besides that the pump may not be able to maintain constant pressure. A pressure test connected with a long hose while driving my help trouble shoot a fuel pressure problem. It would be nice if he posts the solution to the problem once solved.
 
Besides that the pump may not be able to maintain constant pressure. A pressure test connected with a long hose while driving my help trouble shoot a fuel pressure problem. It would be nice if he posts the solution to the problem once solved.
have not solved it yet , bad weather has stopped progress . had a local auto repair place say it was fuel pump or clogged fuel pump strainer , have ordered both and will get them replaced next week
 
You may want to check what I posted in the FJ80 forum, if that fix does not solve your problem. I was having problems with my LC when you made the posting.
 
Dirty or bad mass-air-flow sensor/meter? cloged air filter or air intake? Bad connection of cables to Mass-air-flow sensor?
 
How are the coil connectors looking on the harness? I had very similar symptoms when the connector wire seals failed. The engine sounded normal but after driving it would die at random. The coil connectors were rusting and full of water.

As already mentioned the volume air flow meter should get inspected. Besides electrical checks see if the door moves freely. It is not common but I've found rust in the door's hinge sticking the meter.
 
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