89 extra cab IFS and 35's

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F

Family 40's

Joined
Oct 20, 2005
Threads
14
Messages
189
Location
Bismarck, ND
I have an 89 toyota extra cab pick up:

I am thinking about running 35's with ball joint spacers 2 inch aal in the rear and a 2 inch body lift and cutting the remaining rubs. I currently have 4.10s with an aussie in the rear but will regear to 5.29's. I was planning on running 33's for the time being and regearing to 5.29's until I can afford a SAS. But decided 5.29's will be a little high running for the freeway with 33's. So I am thinking to do the gears once and the tires once. Currently my truck doesn't see enough hard offroad to hurt it the IFS components considering I live in Grand Forks North Dakota. Another thought I work at a shop with access to parts at cost and free alignments any time I want, so replacing weak components is a quick and cheap fix for me. Let me know what you think about my extracab running:

2.5 inch suspension
2 inch body
35's with 5.29 gears
 
Run the stock gears and 33's, little trimming and you won't need a lift ;)

I had add a leafs in the back of mine, ended up installing a set of 2" springs from Downey and was much happier with those.

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Front suspension was stock, never touched the torsion bars
Trimmed the front fenders about 1.25"
2" springs in back
bobbed the bed 1 foot
lock rite locker in the back
custom front and rear bumpers
4xinnovations sliders

That setup got me through a lot of trails, I didn't see the need for ball joint spacers as I hung up on the sliders/frame more then I did the ifs up front. And with 33's you can stick out the stock gearing for now, and not waste money on gearing the IFS up front.
 
I guess I'm wondering... if you don't do enough off-road to risk damaging the IFS, then what do you need 35" tires for?

If you have any designs to do an SAS in the future, then any money you spend on the IFS (gears, labor, idler arms, etc) will be a waste and will keep you from doing that SAS.
 
Currently I have no need to do the SAS. I plan on being here in north dakota for another 2 years, and am setting up for a SAS before I move, I plan on moving back to the NW or to the SW. I do a bit of four wheeling but the hardest I run on my front end would have to be the snow over here during the winter months. What i meant by that comment is I don't see the rocks many of the rest of you see considering there are no rocks in Grand forks county. I am anticipating that SAS thats why I want to swap to 5.29s and since my truck also sees alot of freeway driving at 75 mph 33's and 5.29s wont work too well. I don't have to pay labor at all. I have a shop and mechanics at my disposal for all the diff and front end work. What i don't want to do is have to do a job a second time but in the end if I have to sell my 5.29 completer front end ifs I don't think I would end up losing that much money in the end. I don't for see my self having to do the work on my front end considering it is perfect now but if i had to it wouldn't cost much. I do plan on doing a sas in the next five years but its still 5 years away.

Then again maybe SAS is closer to my range then I originally thought. Quick question to you all after the lift the front what were your costs for:
rear lift, and drive lines
 
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I currently have 2" aal plus 2 inch shackles, and 1.5 inch ball joint spacers. I originally was planning on running 33's 31's just aren't cutting it for me in the snow and mud. I want to regear since it only costs the price of the gears for me to do but now considering the sas this year by regearing the rear and the new front solid axle before its shoved in there. I need a car though while this transformation is taking place.

By the way Mike C, like how your yota sits now!
 
I managed to get 18-19mpg with the 3vze running stock 4.10s and 33's. My 4runner also has stock 4.10 gears and I was getting 19-21mpg with 35's on it. I have yet to check the millage with the 33's, but the stock gears are fine on the road. On the trails it wasn't a issue until I got into the rocks. I'll be installing a dual case before I wheel the 4runner, but I have no plans on gearing the axles any time soon.

Lifting and gearing the front end if you are going to sas it is tossing money out the window. Give the stock gears a shot, see how she handles it.
 
I have so many decisions to make:
if i were to run 33's i could get them for no cost considering i could sell my brand new 31s that i got for cost. then by the time i would get to the sas then the 33's would go on the fj 40 but the next question arises do I want 33's or should i go with the 35's? I have to think about not only the pick up but also the 40 which could accommodate 35s with power to spare.
 
Yeah the ball joint spacers are already in place i have no plan to do any more suspension after that. it was an impulse thing anyways my clutch is nearing the end of its not a problem can replace that no prob. I however have the 22re and not sure how it will handle 33's mileage wise anyways and the snow over here the yota bogs down. I think I may replace the clutch give the 33's a try. then after the sas shove the 33's to the 40 and upgrade the pickup to 35's.
 
I have the 22re in my 4runner, but I also have headers and the engine has been rebuilt. Its got plenty of power to move the 35's ;)

I'm in White Bear lake, north side of the cities.
 
I have a 95 22re with no upgrades however it only has 90k on it but it is my only vehicle. Also where do you go wheeling. I have been trying to get out to duluth and around there I hear they have some pretty sweet ORV parks but trying to get out there. maybe ill try 35 and 4.10's it is until i can afford a sas. a dual case maybe the next upgrade to my truck if i keep the 4.10's and 35's.

Do you have any pictures of you pickup with the 35's on there?
 
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I wheel up at Gilbert, its one of very few places we have to wheel in this state.

Keep the engine tuned up well, and the rpms up high. On the highway I keep it around 3200-3800 all day long. Anything under 50mph and I try to keep the rpms around 2800-3400 rpms. My engine like to start pulling at the 3200rpm mark.
 
Yeah have no tach but dual case would have no problem running 35's through the snow the 22re would not bog down. I am not so worried about the high way as I am the trails, snow, and the 22re bogging. So maybe the answer will be the dual case and not regearing yet.

My next question being: is there any driveline adjustments required with the Dual case conversion? and

I am wondering what the yota will look like with 35's?
 
You will need to retube the front drive shaft and shorter rear drive shaft, or a longer single rear drive shaft. Get some qoutes for the work from local shops, it can add up.

I've seen plenty of IFS trucks with 35's and no lift. Just have to cut some metal out of the way till they stop rubbing ;)
 
Thanks alot Mike, that helps alot. Just not sure what would be more affordable doing the dual cases or gears. considering the sas will be atleast 5 years down the road... I have alot of thinking to do. IFS 35s stock gearing, regear to 5.29's, not do anything til i can afford all the sas, gotta think about what to do. thanks for your help.
 
Here is a link to my build https://forum.ih8mud.com/79-95-toyota-truck-tech/209893-jts-88-4-runner-build.html It goes over what I have done to fit 35's with a 1" body lift and a slightly longer rear shackle. I trimmed the hell out of the body and it works great. I did the 1" body lift so that I could lift my drivetrain higher without cutting tanny tunnel when I put the dual cases in. I set the rear up to have about 1-2" of uptravel before it stops and it seems to work great and I have a ton of down travel. On the highway it does fine, I can keep up with traffic and pass no problem adn I am running stock 4.10 gears and my 22re probably has about 225k miles on it and is stock.
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Thats what I am going to do just get the wheels and tires, put them on cut what is needed to be cut and run around with 35's and stock gearing till I have the time and the money to SAS I'll keep you all updated
 
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