88 3vz t belt issues

[Bluejerseydevil]

Ok this is not my first time I've done a belt but I get a lot of pinging and loss of power.
Now here's my issue for some reason in my service book I have for some reason marked on the t belt installation page 10deg tdc. Now I totally don't remember if I wrote that cause I wasn't able to remove the harmonic ballancer? Or was just high on brake clean. Could this be my problem? So would placing the crank at ten deg. And line the cams to the dots fix this? cause I've tried a tooth forward and back on distributer and it gets worse. Even checked twice to see if it skipped a tooth on the belt. I have a brand new long block from Toyota and did a valve job with new valves and even did leak down tests.
It seems to be in the timing. Cause once I replace the ball joints and tie rod ends this truck is better than when it rolled off the show room floor. It doesn't run b
That bad just pings a little bit.

 

[SamS]

Sounds like your belt is not lined up correctly. There should be marks on the belt, cams, and crank. All you do is line up the marks and you should be good.

 

[Bluejerseydevil]

Thanks that's how I did it but I doubt my self that that's how it should be.

 

[Bluejerseydevil]

That's not the motor either in the photo

 

[Bluejerseydevil]

Ok I took the motor apart again to check the timing and it's correct my issius is that I get a valve noise on acceleration.
I check my ecu and no codes. I also checked my rotor position and it seems ok. When I set it at 10deg. Or 12deg. It runs great but the pinging is more evident. The reason I checked the ecu is I thought maybe the knock sensor was bad. But at $170 to 230 a pop and the code is not present I think I can rule that out. HELP before I blow this motor.

 

[KLF]

When was the last time you adjusted the valves?

 

[Bluejerseydevil]

Just did a vale job three months ago

 

[Bluejerseydevil]

Ok,13 hours of work it had nothing to do with my t belt!!!!! my issue this whole time was my throttle body cold air valve. After reading a s*** load of threads. I decided to just check it out and figured what do I have to lose? The part that holds the valve in had backed out to the cover plate!! I cleaned it and the whole throttle body and now it has droped idle and is now easy to adjust. My cold air idle screw is really far out now. It was always flush or sunk in to get proper idle. I defiantly thought it was the timing due to the fact that the mark always was past the 12 deg mark! I never knew that that part would cause this much problem. I know most trucks have a iac and who ever designed this system needs to be shot. The next thing is my knock sensor just cause of the stuff I had read about them failing and when I did my valves, I didn't have the money to replace it. I will though. I hope this thread may help any one else that had the same problem I had.