80 series ABS issue

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Apr 15, 2011
Longmont, CO
Hello All! Yes, this is yet another ABS problem question. I have read countless threads on ABS issues but cannot seem to pinpoint a solution to my issue. First a quick rundown on my rig:

1994 - 178K
3" OME lift
MAF Control Arm and sway arm drop brackets
35" BFG Muds
all else pretty stock

I did the lift about a year ago and had no real braking issues. Once I added the tires (2 months ago), I noticed the brakes were a bit "weaker" so I flushed the entire system, new dot 4, bled a million times, adjusted the LSPV valve and bled some more. Pedal feels fine, master and booster are good, all calipers and pads are good, parking brake is good - but ABS light on. ABS will not engage with panic braking and while its disabled the brakes are good but not great - guessing 80% (with ABS disabled if I jump on the brakes it will not lock) Pulled codes with paper clip and got RL senson, FR sensor, and the dreaded code 36 (either FR or RL open circuit) - changed the speed sensors out and cleared those codes. However, still have code 36. I traced the harnesses all the way and saw no visible damage and any connections along the way were opened and all clean. How can I pinpoint where the open circuit is? Dont want to buy full new harnesses from the stealership - there must be a way to trace the wiring to either the FR or RL in increments (between connections) and test integrity....... and once I find it (fingers crossed) can this be spliced? any thoughs would be most appreciated. Thanks!
Yes - have owned it for eight years now - first time to throw ABS codes
Hi, did you solve your issue. I've currently got code 36 and I've narrowed it down to the rear left sensor via testing the circuit from the ECU (below screenshots)
I just need to now find where the break in the circuit is.:rolleyes:
Anyone have any pointers as to the best place to start looking?

Screen Shot 2013-02-27 at 10.01.55 PM.png

Screen Shot 2013-02-27 at 10.01.42 PM.jpg
I have a gadget somewhere in my toolbox that you hook to a wire, and then run a sensor along the wire until it doesn't sense the signal. I'm not sure if that is what you need, but it comes to mind. I think it's a pretty common device, and I'm sure new ones work better than my decades-old device.

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