73 F motor Carb Rebuild

[TexYoung]

1973 FJ40 with F Motor. Stock 2-barrel carb.

Before rebuilding the carb, the truck had trouble starting without using starter fluid and it ran OK but it was a little rough with an occasional back fire, not too bad though. It also had a minor manifold leak. I could tell that the accelerator pump plunger was bad before I did the carb rebuild and after tear down of the carb you could see the plunger was bad as the rubber sealing gasket on it was shot. After doing the rebuild I put the carb back on and it still won't start without starter fluid and it is running horrible, backfiring, dies just horrible. One thing I noticed after the rebuild is that the accelerator plunger has only about a 1/4" of movement which I believe it should be closer to an inch of movement, right? I did not replace the steel ball or the retainer of the pump when I did the rebuild. I am concerned about the pump discharge weight, ball, plug and washer that is in the chamber right next to the pump. When I remove the plug I get the movement on the accelerator pump I expect to get. Is there a way to put those pieces in wrong that would keep the accelerator pump from working correctly? Is there maybe something else I did that might have made the carb function in a way that would make the truck run like it is?

I also replaced the valve cover gasket and the manifold gasket. Is there anything I could have done in replacing those parts that would make it run like it is????

 

[landcrusher909]

Check the fuel cutoff solenoid there will be a wire coming off the carb. easiest way to test it is jump the wire to the positive side of the battery. touch the wire to the battery you should hear it click as you quickly touch it to the post If its not clicking theres part of the problem. Try that first. Also you should have installed the ball, weight and plug in that order. Hope that helps Rob

 

[TexYoung]

1973 FJ40 with F Motor. Stock 2-barrel carb.

Before rebuilding the carb, the truck had trouble starting without using starter fluid and it ran OK but it was a little rough with an occasional back fire, not too bad though. It also had a minor manifold leak. I could tell that the accelerator pump plunger was bad before I did the carb rebuild and after tear down of the carb you could see the plunger was bad as the rubber sealing gasket on it was shot. After doing the rebuild I put the carb back on and it still won't start without starter fluid and it is running horrible, backfiring, dies just horrible. One thing I noticed after the rebuild is that the accelerator plunger has only about a 1/4" of movement which I believe it should be closer to an inch of movement, right? I did not replace the steel ball or the retainer of the pump when I did the rebuild. I am concerned about the pump discharge weight, ball, plug and washer that is in the chamber right next to the pump. When I remove the plug I get the movement on the accelerator pump I expect to get. Is there a way to put those pieces in wrong that would keep the accelerator pump from working correctly? Is there maybe something else I did that might have made the carb function in a way that would make the truck run like it is?

I also replaced the valve cover gasket and the manifold gasket. Is there anything I could have done in replacing those parts that would make it run like it is????

Check the fuel cutoff solenoid there will be a wire coming off the carb. easiest way to test it is jump the wire to the positive side of the battery. touch the wire to the battery you should hear it click as you quickly touch it to the post If its not clicking theres part of the problem. Try that first. Also you should have installed the ball, weight and plug in that order. Hope that helps Rob

There are two wires coming off that solenoid. One grounded to the Choke linkage on the carb and the other running trough the firewall. With the ignition off I ran the one going trough the firewall to the positive post on the battery and I heard a very faint click coming from the battery side of the wire but no click from the solenoid. Is that correct?

Yes, the order I put in the other parts was 1-ball, 2-weight, 3-Stopper, 4-washer. There were two balls in the kit, one large ball and one small ball. I used the small ball. Is that correct? does it matter which end is up on the weight?

 

[TexYoung]

There are two wires coming off that solenoid. One grounded to the Choke linkage on the carb and the other running trough the firewall. With the ignition off I ran the one going trough the firewall to the positive post on the battery and I heard a very faint click coming from the battery side of the wire but no click from the solenoid. Is that correct?

Yes, the order I put in the other parts was 1-ball, 2-weight, 3-Stopper, 4-washer. There were two balls in the kit, one large ball and one small ball. I used the small ball. Is that correct? does it matter which end is up on the weight?

Another questions is the two jets in the bottom of the float bowl; does it matter which jet goes in which hole? One jet is flush with the bowl, the other jet is protruding from the bowl about 1/8 of an inch. Is that correct?

 

[landcrusher909]

NO the weight can go in anyway, I think you needed to put the large ball in. I can check one of my carbs shortly. You need to hear the solenoid clicking. there are only two screws just pull it out and try it again. might be stuck. remember it needs to be grounded to work. Hope this helps