Most likely these. They were on the green 77 I sold to Tony ( Trained Killa)
http://www.sor.com/cat282.sor
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Most likely these. They were on the green 77 I sold to Tony ( Trained Killa)
http://www.sor.com/cat282.sor
That looks like them. Thank you Sir!
Well I was cleaning up the split case I got and its been jb welded... It is right by the drain plug. Didn't appear to be leaking and was covered in dirt. I guess I need to find a replacement housing. Anybody got one?
4:88 gears, no spider gears. 100.00 OBO for both.tired of tripping over them.
Also have a rear axel housing for a 40 that's set up for SOA. 30.00 ObO.
How about a weber carb. Was on my 40 but had to keep it choked the whole time to keep it running. 20.00 obo(or a case of beer).
Got to get rid of this stuff.
Bomar claimed the gears.
Bodean
Hot Damn
JT may want that housing. Holla at him.
If you still have rear axel housing when the crawl rolls around I would be a player..
Scott
Scott
Pretty sure it's yours. I will bring it to crawl.
Sweet!
Anyone have a radiator support that would fit a 78? I need one for my new project.
need some 40 help....
https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/92316-bad-ballast-resistor.html#post8711842
https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/92316-bad-ballast-resistor.html#post8711842
Your truck is a 76 right? It should have a grey/white rectangular ceramic block at/near the coil and igniter. Not sure what that little resistor is but don't think it's your problem
Edit: looking at that pic again I think I can see the resistor in the upper portion of the photo under a metal heat shield.
Edit: looking at that pic again I think I can see the resistor in the upper portion of the photo under a metal heat shield.
where is the capacitor? we are losing ground.
On mine it was attached to the backside of the coil with a bracket. And mine was also dead as a hammer. Switched over to an electronic ignition after searching high and low with no success for a working replacment.
...and TBI. They work well together.
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The resistor is only required to supply voltage to the coil when the key is in the 'On' position. Like Bodean said, symptoms of a bad ballast resistor would be the truck firing correctly when the key was in the full 'Start' position but then dying after releasing the key back to the 'On' position. This should not be the source of your problem since it sounds like it's not firing even in the 'Start' position.
The capacitor is in the metal tube to the left of the battery cable...connected to the blue wire. It should be grounded.
Bodean
Hot Damn
Gotta have refreshments for fab work!
