4:88 – Lesson Learned

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Joined
Jun 11, 2003
Threads
28
Messages
284
Location
Vail, Arizona
These are my impressions and lesson I learned from the re-gearing project. It is not intended to start another self promoting boring and somewhat annoying discussion as what is better, the 80 or the 100, and the like. I think this is a new info and I tried to be as factual as I can. If it’s not, please accept my apologies.

Front –
Easy, above and beyond the ARB locker stuff no issues.

Rear -
Order the carrier bearings for a locked diff. The installation kit of the gear manufacturer (Precision in my case) comes with bearings for the unlocked diff, which are smaller. I ended up using all Toyota parts. Also the set-up shims are larger.

The threads on the after market (Precision Gears) rear pinion are smaller then the Toyota’s. There are the same as the front’s, so order 2 nuts that fit the front pinion.

The 80’s carrier case cover bore is smaller then the 100’s and the axle shaft would barely go through so you either machine the 80’s (need to take ~50 thousands) or use the 100’s. Since the body and the cover are a matched pair, I decided to machine the 80 cover. I did not want to risk carrier bearing premature wear problem due to misalignment issues. Also, the bore on the other side (the carrier case side) is smaller then the original (100) but is plenty large for the axle shaft to go through, so I left it alone.

You cannot use the side gears washers of the 100 as they are too large. The mating machined surface is smaller in the 80 carrier case and cover. In the 100 case it’s larger and has oiling tunnels to better lubricate the thrust bearing (plain) area.

Ok – To the ring and pinion themselves. According to MY (AND ONLY MINE) inspection and superficial (VERY) analysis, I would draw the conclusion that the 100 ring-and-pinion set up is slightly stronger then the 80. The ring teeth are wider and also have more contact area. It is actually on both, the ring and the pinion (it has to be). Again, I don’t know by how much and I don’t know if it significant enough to make a difference, but it is stronger. Just to put it in perspective, the fact that you go from 4:30 to 4:88 has more impact on the ring-and-pinion strength (negative) then the difference between the 80 and 100 set up.

I am not quit done but this is what I learned so far.

BTW - There are noticeable quality differences between the Toyota gears and Precision’s. Bummer but nothing I can do about it now.
 
Excellent. Excellent Doron. I'm glad somebody is posting all the secrets about this swap on the forum. (Appologies to others if I missed this same detail on another thread)
 
4.88s

I covered this a 1 1/2 years ago. Many people have since asked me about it. Been running great. I have racked up about 25 - 30,000 miles on the gears, I also to a 5000 lb boat 2-3 times per week in the summers, with 5 or 6 several hundred mile drives over mountain passes, etc. I was not "secretive" shotts. If you look back over the past 1 1/2 years of posts, all information has been given, and I have PMd with several people about the process. I have provided people with nec. info to have it done elsewhere.
 
montocr said:
I was not "secretive" shotts. If you look back over the past 1 1/2 years of posts, all information has been given, and I have PMd with several people about the process. I have provided people with nec. info to have it done elsewhere.

Easy. Easy. Damn...some of you folks are so touchy! ;p

It would be awesome to see a thread that listed all the parts, part numbers, and the like so someone can print it out and "go get it". Doron's description was the best I, I, I, I have seen (maybe I haven't seen them all? You didn't read my "apologies statement" above?).

When Doron's done, it would be great for him or someone to add in part numbers, etc. to his thread. (or to somebody elses existing thread...should better details than Doron's exist.)

Oh boy. :frown:
 
Doron did the work himself. Even if you buy all the parts (now available from JT's) you still need a shop to do it. Doron ran into some of the issues why we do not use aftermarket install kits, but only Toyota. If you do it in your garage it is ok to wait a couple of days to get the correct parts, in the shop we do not. We use Toyota parts and we know it fits.

Also, I would not recommend buying all the parts and taking it to a shop to regear. Most shops will not do it if the customer supplies the parts. So a complete parts number list etc does not really help.

PS, ringpinion.biz, would be nice to put a name to the business.
 
not being touchy

Shotts I didnt intend to sound touchy:) Just letting it be known that this has been covered.
 
JT's

JT's is owned by a freind of mine - Jeremy. He is a toyota nut too - so I let him know about ih8mud, and gave him all the info about regears for the packages. The kits are complete.
 
aftermarket install kits

True, most aftermarket install kits do not contain all of the correct parts for 80s and 100s. This is because most large distributors can not take the time to create different kits for vehicles that are modified less often. I to understand that something as simple as a pinion nut or thrust washer can be big hassle if you have a customers vehicle on the rack!:)

Doron - Great Job on the 100 Series regear!
 
hoser said:
My installer has no problem using customer supplied parts. How about part numbers of the new OEM parts we should be using. Would the list be different for vehicles that had the factory rear locker vs open/LSD?

And...ARB locker?
 
hoser said:
My installer has no problem using customer supplied parts. How about part numbers of the new OEM parts we should be using. Would the list be different for vehicles that had the factory rear locker vs open/LSD?

You either do e-locker, or a modified ARB. It would not make sense to regear an open rear diff. In that case, you would add the ARB and you have to put together a bastard ARB lockers, similar to the e-locker deal. I do believe the additional costs with a e-locker is less than the additional costs with an ARB.
 
hoser said:
My installer has no problem using customer supplied parts.

I guess it differs from shop to shop. Every time we have tried this, we run into problems. Some shops actually will do it at a higher shop rate to cover the loss in income and additional issues that arrise when you have warrantee issues.
 
Shims

Doron,
The shims I have always used are from another more common application for a ford 9.75 rearend. Shims are Shims. The shims are available in a kit and make life easier than ordering one at a time for big $$ and waiting from Toyota.
 
sleeoffroad said:
You either do e-locker, or a modified ARB. It would not make sense to regear an open rear diff. In that case, you would add the ARB and you have to put together a bastard ARB lockers, similar to the e-locker deal. I do believe the additional costs with a e-locker is less than the additional costs with an ARB.
Thanks, Christo. I'll need the modified ARB. So which Toyota parts should I be ordering?
 
montocr said:
Doron,
Shims are Shims. SIZE]


I beg to differ on this one. In the carrier bearing intense the shims are in static applications and basically just a spacer. In the side gears application they not just taking up space but also serve as a thrust bearing. In his case they have to be of a material/hardness matching the surfaced the interface with. I don't know what side loads go into the side gears but a suspect they are fairly high. I would not use a non Toyota part in this case.
 
thanks for your analysis

Thats great. Thats why I use the Toyota THRUST WASHER, but not SHIM. The shims in no way act as a bearing - they just fill space. If they acted as a bearing than youve got no preload on your carrier bearings and they are spinning. Not trying to create a pointless argument.
 
ringpinion.biz said:
These issues are all adressed with our kit for 100 gear change.

Perhaps you should do the right thing and pay for a banner ad, if you wish to advertise, but not give information?
 
Back
Top Bottom