3E-E & stock FJ40 radiator

Alex Waddell

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I am putting a 3F-E in my 68' FJ40. My stock radiator seemed to be in good condition so I had it rotted out and tested at a local shop. But I am concerned that it may not have the cooling capacity. does anyone know if the stock 68' radiator will cool a 3F-E? I have heard that the 4 row aluminum radiators are better but I don't know if I need one or not.
 

Alex Waddell

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Thanks for the info and I will keep it for now.
But it gets pretty hot down here in Tucson.
How do you like you 3F-E conversion if you still have it?
 

Alex Waddell

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One more question about your conversion.
The right & left front 3E-E motor mounting brackets have attachment points for other stuff like the AC & alternator.
Were you able to use them in your 73 FJ40 or did you need to use FJ40 brackets?
 

Engineer8000

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I used the 3FE front engine mount ears both sides because I wanted the AC compressor mount on the passenger side. Most people use the 2F passenger side ear. I used the later rectangular 2F rubber motor mounts because the top bolt and bottom stud are in line with each other, the 3FE rubber mounts are offset top and bottom. Slotted the frame side mounts about an inch to the passenger side, then shimmed 3/4" driver side and 1/4" passenger side to get the correct height. I used a factory AC radiator BTW.
 
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One more question about your conversion.
The right & left front 3E-E motor mounting brackets have attachment points for other stuff like the AC & alternator.
Were you able to use them in your 73 FJ40 or did you need to use FJ40 brackets?
You can keep the 3FE stuff if you want. I yanked the smog, power steering pump and swapped out the alternator to the 73 original but that was a matter of taste not clearance. I installed the 3FE with all the stuff on it and it fit fine.
 

Alex Waddell

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You can keep the 3FE stuff if you want. I yanked the smog, power steering pump and swapped out the alternator to the 73 original but that was a matter of taste not clearance. I installed the 3FE with all the stuff on it and it fit fine.
Did pulling the smog stuff give you more power or fuel economy?
I am still debating as to I will pull it or not. The emissions people in my state will not even pop the hood on a 68 and it only needs to pass emissions for a stock 68.
But other states may not be as loose and removing the smog stuff may present a challenge for a potential buyer if I decide to sell it some day.
 
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Did pulling the smog stuff give you more power or fuel economy?
I am still debating as to I will pull it or not. The emissions people in my state will not even pop the hood on a 68 and it only needs to pass emissions for a stock 68.
But other states may not be as loose and removing the smog stuff may present a challenge for a potential buyer if I decide to sell it some day.
Definite gain in power and mpg. My rig here is smog exempt so its a non-issue. There is a desmog kit out there that is really complete. I will never sell so I just don't worry about it.
 

Alex Waddell

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That's kind of what I was planning on doing to use the two rear bell housing mounts to to get the engine straight to the center of the frame.
What surface did you use to level the engine when rotating around the rear two mounts?
I suppose the most important issue is to get the t-case level so that the u-joint flex is about the same front & back.
On the other hand, I am putting in a 4-speed which is too tall for the stock transmission hump on my 68'.
I am considering raising the front so that the transmission fits better but that may be a trade off trying to keep the t-case level at the same time.
Did you have trouble finding a brake booster to fit next to the 3F-E?
 
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I leveled by eyeball, nothing scientific for sure. When I first put it together it was obviously not right so I pulled the mounts and swapped, remounted, pulled and tweaked and moved the mount pads until it looked good to me. The t-case is not forgiving. You just need to work it when you install. The first time I hit 55 mph on the highway I was extremely happy with how smooth it was and it that is with the three speed tranny. I used the 73 brake booster. I tried to keep as much original as possible. I honestly plan on going back to the newer alternator, the fuel pump, etc. are to much for the 73 alternator.
 

Alex Waddell

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My 68 didn't come with a stock booster so I will need to find one that will fit.
I should be doing my first test fit the engine soon. I am sure that I will learn a lot as I go.
Is there a reason that you didn't use the stock 3F-E alternator?
I hope that it's not a fit problem because I was planning on using it.
 

Engineer8000

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I used a mini truck booster. The 3fe alternator is higher amperage so you will have to increase the size of your wiring to use it. I just used the white wire from the fj62 harness. I converted to a voltage gauge so I don't have the w/l wire any longer. I didn't use the bellhousing mounts, I have a H55f so I have a rear cross member under the transmission.
 
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My 68 didn't come with a stock booster so I will need to find one that will fit.
I should be doing my first test fit the engine soon. I am sure that I will learn a lot as I go.
Is there a reason that you didn't use the stock 3F-E alternator?
I hope that it's not a fit problem because I was planning on using it.
The only reason I didn't use the newer alternator was I thought it would be more authentic to use it and use the external voltage regulator. I highly recommend the newer alternator and just bypassing the voltage regulator. You don't really need to change any wiring other than bypassing the voltage regulator.
 

Alex Waddell

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Cruiserman13, Thanks again for the great advice!
I am actually pretty new to Land Cruisers and have owned my project for less than a year and a half.
There aren't too many people out there with experience with a 3F-E into FJ40 conversion so I appreciate the advice you and Engineer8000 have provided me.
 

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