3B fuel filter swap

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Natty

Natty

10 Year 15 Year
Joined
Sep 17, 2006
Threads
79
Messages
417
Location
Calgary, AB.
Hi guys... I'm changing out the fuel filter on my 3B tonight. I 'm just wondering if anyone has any info that might be valuable regarding this job. I've changed a few fuel filters, but none that looks anything like this filter. Is there anything during this install that someone like me ( my 1st diesel ) may overlook? I just don't wnat any surprises, if you know what I mean... Thanks alot!!! :cheers:
 
You need to re-prime the system after.
It's easy to do..

1. On the drivers side of the engine there is a round knob for the hand pump. Its down low and beside the injection pump in about the middle of the engine. It may be metal or plastic, but its about 1.5 inches around. You need to unscrew it to loosen it off. Then you can pump it back and forth to build pressure. Pump it about 10-15 times.

2. Beside/above the fuel filter there is a line coming in, and a bleeder knob/screw. Its a 10mm with a hole in the end. Open that and air and fuel will start squirting out. Open and close it finger tight (for now). You want a steady stream of diesel coming out. No air mixed in, or sputtering. So open it until you have a nice stream of diesel.
If you start loosing pressure, close it (finger tight) and pump/pressurize the system more. Then repeat until you have a nice stream of diesel. You don't want to leave it open once you start loosing pressure, as you don't want to get air in the line.

3. Once your done, screw the pump back down, and tighten the bleeder knob until it is snug. No need to over tighten.

Basically, you just need to have all the air out of the line.
Air in the line is bad, and will cause your truck to sputter and die (lack of fuel).

_____________________________________________
Funny enough my girl friends 3B just got a new fuel filter two days ago.
System had to re-primed twice. Once when cruiser_guy changed it, and then about 30km's later. Symptoms where would hardly run and could not bring the rpm up without the engine dying. Just had no power. There was a small air bubble left in the line.


Cheers,
Nick :)
 
If you still need a filter, and don't want to get overcharged at toyota, you could get a different one. My local Toyota dealership is usually pretty good for price, but they wanted $60 for one. :eek: :eek:

The Napa/Wix part number is: 33393
It's about $15 bucks.

Or go to Finning/Cat.
They can cross reference you with the Donaldson one.
I forget the number. I could get it if you need it.
Just bring in the 33393 number.
It's under $5, and its GOOD quality.

I bought six.
Two for each truck. We always carry a spare. (Mine, my girlfriend's and her dad (cruiser_guy)
He did confrim it fits right.
We also compared the Donaldson to the Wix.
The Wix is 15-20% bigger (taller), but the Donaldson wieghts 25-40% more.

Personally, I would buy the donaldson, and would buy it even it was $25.
Donaldson makes great stuff and has cheap prices.

I would also recommend te donaldson oil filter.
Just go into Finning/CAT and ask them to cross reference it for you.
It's a PH8A. $7 I think and great quality.
I can get the part # for you.
(I will post them in the part number thread)

Just don't get a fram, or Motomaster or Canadian Tire/Walmart etc...

Cheers,
Nick
 
Thanks for the info Nick... that helps alot. Just so you and others know, I just picked up my filter from Canyon Creek Toyota, it was $37.00. Not a bad price... :) Take care, and thanks again.. . Stan
 
$37!!! Take it back.

I will get you the Donaldson Part number at lunch.
Or just go into Finning/CAT.
Tell them the Wix part number is 33393.
They can cross reference for you.
The Donaldon is just as good (maybe better), and is under $5.

Even 4wheelauto sells Toyota ones for $15.


$37 is rape.
Toyota will charge what ever they think we will pay.
They have to learn, we will not stand for high prices.

Ny rule is:
If I can get the same or better quaility 3rd party for the same of less, I buy it.
I just got two new OEM air filters. $26 each.
The Donaldson was $35.


Cheers,
Nick
 
Down here I'm limited to Wix, Purolater, and Toyota.
Maybe it's just my rig, but the Wix is a bit taller and therefore more difficult to squeeze into the space.

HTH
Happy Trails! N
 
Green Lantern said:
Down here I'm limited to Wix, Purolater, and Toyota.
Maybe it's just my rig, but the Wix is a bit taller and therefore more difficult to squeeze into the space.

HTH
Happy Trails! N
Click to expand...

The Donaldson is about the same hieght as the OEM.

Cheers,
Nick
 
Thanks Westintl!

I'll keep that number in the glove box. The one I bought worked... just a PITA to line up and thread. ;-)
Happy Trails! N
 
I got a donaldson. Can't remember the PN. Bought it at NAPA.

I try not to buy anything from the OEM.
 
my bum is sore... ;)
 
Fuel filters for the 3B can be had at Canadian Tire and at NAPA for around $13
The 3B filter is a bit shorter than the 13BT. Remember the 3B was sold in Canada in the BJ70 truck 85 -87.
 
Gold Boy said:
can i replace the fuel filter with just filling the filter with diesel and not worrying about priming with the the primer?

cheers
Click to expand...


anyway i just filed up the new filter with diesel and screwed it back on... no problems, and no sign of air in the fuel lines. the 13bt fired right up an ran smooth.

:hillbilly:
 
Gold Boy said:
anyway i just filed up the new filter with diesel and screwed it back on... no problems, and no sign of air in the fuel lines. the 13bt fired right up an ran smooth.

:hillbilly:
Click to expand...

You "lucked out" GoldBoy.

It's not something I would do because churning a diesel motor over-and-over again-and-again is pretty hard on the starter motor. If you bleed the air out properly, you're certain to avoid having to do that -- And your starter motor (and its brushes) will last longer.

I agree that it's a good idea to partially pre-fill new filters though. - Especially oil filters. With oil filters, doing so reduces the period the engine has to run "without oil pressure".

(It doesn't make much difference with fuel filters though because the primer pump takes no time at all to fill them - and you have less chance of spilling diesel if you fit a fuel filter "dry".)

---My 2 cents worth

:cheers:
 
Last edited:
lostmarbles said:
You "lucked out" GoldBoy.

It's not something I would do because churning a diesel motor over-and-over again-and-again is pretty hard on the starter motor. If you bleed the air out properly, you're certain to avoid having to do that -- And your starter motor (and its brushes) will last longer.

I agree that it's a good idea to partially pre-fill new filters though. - Especially oil filters. With oil filters, doing so reduces the period the engine has to run "without oil pressure".

(It doesn't make much difference with fuel filters though because the primer pump takes no time at all to fill them - and you have less chance of spilling diesel if you fit a fuel filter "dry".)

---My 2 cents worth

:cheers:
Click to expand...

true

having said that there was NO air. turned the ignition key and the engine fired up as normal.... don't think the starter turned half a crank.
 
On all my diesels which I have a few of them I always just fill the filter screw it up snug and turn her over 10 out of 10 times they start right up no sputtering no extra cranking......but that is what I do not saying it is correct I just don't like using the primer pump unless I have to they are a week link in the fuel system prone to leak after lots of use.
 
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