3B Diesel Conversion/Swap: Fj60 & BJ60 Are Now One

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What year is your FJ60?

When I did a 2H/H55 conversion we cut off the old motor mounts and located the motor by the transmission mount. I bolted the frame side engine mount brackets to the rubber motor mounts, then lowered the engine down in to the frame to tack the mounts. Worked exceptionally well.
 
After wracking my brain i am now picking up what you're laying down. So essentially the 4 spd tranny mounts are located in the same spot as would be the 5 spd so the engine should find its natural location?

Engine, tranny and tcase will be out today. Both the BJ60s ive got had bad T/T oil leaks. I tried to seal thr last one with "the right stuff" and companion flange seal gaskets but its still leaky.

So im planning on having this T/T sealed back up professionally and ill slap it into my wifes BJ the "Canuckee" and then addrrss the 5 speed shift issue and leaky leaks in that T/T. Itll then go into said swap.

My biggest fear still is tapping into the ignition properly and engine locale. Good for me as im not a natural mechanic, is i have the Canukee to use as a reference.
 
The factory 1984 BJ60 had a H55? Does the BJ60 have a CV front driveshaft? I thought they didn't come out till 85.

Yes, the 5 speed and 4 speed had the same location of transmission mount. The later FJ60s had a different style bellhousing and crossmember to accomodate a slightly rotated transmission. Post up a pic of the transmission crossmember from each truck to confirm, but yes, you should be able to locate the engine based on the tranamission mount.
 
cruizerbuddy said:
Engine, tranny and tcase will be out today. Both the BJ60s ive got had bad T/T oil leaks. I tried to seal thr last one with "the right stuff" and companion flange seal gaskets but its still leaky.

So im planning on having this T/T sealed back up professionally and ill slap it into my wifes BJ the "Canuckee" and then addrrss the 5 speed shift issue and leaky leaks in that T/T. Itll then go into said swap.

My biggest fear still is tapping into the ignition properly and engine locale. Good for me as im not a natural mechanic, is i have the Canukee to use as a reference.
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Rear transfer case leaks are usually from the bearing getting sloppy and causing the seal to gape. changing the seal wont necessarily fix your problem if that is the leak you were referring to. You can simply check for bearing slop by rocking the rear drive shaft back and forth. It shouldn't move much at all if its good.

The transfercase to tranny seal inside can also leak and pump case oil into the tranny starving the case of lube while overfilling your tranny. I tapped my tranny fill plug and ran a return hose back to the case to simply return the excess oil. Its a low tech long term way to address the issue.

For wiring my edic when I did my swap I left the FJ harness intact and built my own harness to attach the edic stuff. I grafted onto the ignition positions to activate the edic properly. I didn't enjoy that wiring stuff to be honest.

g
 
Smart leaving your fj harmess in tact. Immediately wanna do the same.
Would you have done it again with regards to the edic wiring?
I mean it seems rather easy to simply mount a kill switch lever through the firewall no?
Thanks for the chevron leak advise. Ive not owned a cruiser that didnt need the tranny to tcase return line!
I did compamion flange seals on my wife's Canuckee and it still leaks. Bearings seem good though for sure...?
 
Simce this us my main rig and im not a mechanic i might go that route. But any lessons learned are for sure welcome. The donor was wired poorly but i drovr the rig home so it worked...
Wonder if i fully removed the bj harness and then laid it inside along fj harness and then like you said tap in where needed. Sounds like a s*** show waiting to happen..
 
So I finished most of the swap and was eager to drive it so I did the kill switch like you said. I then took the family camping a week later being all confident and proud of myself and ruptured a turbo oil line which pumped my engine dry and the low oil pressure edic function wasn't hooked up cus I was so impatient..... I completely seized the engine on a friday night in the bush with my young family and travel trailer in tow literally in the middle of a logging road. My wife since hates all land cruisers.

Properly wire your edic and use stainless braded hoses. That was an extremely hard way to lean two simple lessons.

I cut the wiring 6 inches up from the edic plug and used the schematic to ID the wires and where they go on the ignition positions, ground, constant, ect. Its not that many wires to be honest. Still took me like 8 hrs to do but is well worth it. Go over and read the diagrams well in advance and ID them before you cut.
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I’m planning to do this conversion once I can find a donor truck…. Is this a hard swap. My 3fe and a440f are not getting along great with me.
 
Is it absolutely necessary to cut the front rad support to remove the engines?
 
Gimme a 60 said:
Is it absolutely necessary to cut the front rad support to remove the engines?
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No it all unbolts...

J

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