3 questions, 3 pics

[milesstarkey]

First question: Is this the steering coupler? on sor.com i can only find this part on 72's up, not my 2/71, so should i order the 72 coupler to replace it?

#2 pic, why am i leaking brake fluid from the bottom of my master cylinder (circled)?

#3 pic, see how my shackles are leaning, what can i do about that?

 

[kc_chevota]

#2 try tighting the pressure switch or it could be the resevor i think theres a oring under it
#3 replace the bushings with poly ones also changing to a shackel that is braced

 

[Landpimp]

here is why you can't find the steering coupler(also known as a rag joint).........that is not a 71 fj40 steering box, it a Power steering box of some sort......might be mini truck or might be ? but the rag joint looks Toyota, so I think any listed for a fj40 will work(looks just like mine on the 82's) I forget when Toyota changed the steering shaft.

LOOSE those shackles of death......they have no place on a Cruiser or anything for that matter.

master....leaking I don't know, bad seal I suspect.

 

[Gumby]

The box looks like a GM truck Saganaw. That's a very common rag joint. You can buy repair kits at most any parts store.

Yikes! Put shorter shackles on today. The Cruiser you save could be your own.

Is there fluid above the pressure sensor on the master cylinder? Might just be the threads leaking. Might be the pressure sensor itself. Easy fix. Is that bubbled paint under the master on the booster? If so, it's leaking from the rear seal on the master. You could rebuild it, but I'd just throw on a new one.

 

[hammerhead]

#1 looks like a GM rag joint.
#2 could be leaking from the reservoir, residual valve or the switch.
#3 is called a "Kludged shackle". You should replace the spring bushings. If that doesn't fix it then put the vehicle on jack stands supporting the frame so the axle is hanging at full droop without the wheels. Loosen the u-bolts and shackles enough to wiggle the suspension around to get it to hang perfectly straight. Retorque. You really should change out those shackles for some good ones with the pins built in. The best ones are the greaseable pin units from SOR, MAF or the Con-ferr type with the brace in the middle to keep them straight. We not so affectionately call the ones you have "floppy shackles". They work OK on Dads old mustang rear axle but really have no business on a cruiser.

 

[HI^C]

Love to see a few pics of the Steering box mounted and such, square draglink is T$TS. I would say by the mounting that the box would be a 2wd GM truck box. if the rag gear is not torn then it usually dont need replaced. PNP.

Shackles are too long, no way you have any caster angle left. And guessing that you may be having some steering problems?

stock shackles are only like 5 or so inches (maybe less, none handy at the moment) bolt to bolt, looks like yours are close to 10 inches.

BTW those are some very nice hydraulic lines.

 

[milesstarkey]

sor has shackles part number 288-40 that fit the fj40. are these the longest i can get in my price range, which is low. sor says 24 for the whole vehicle but how many bushings do i need for just the front two shackles? i'm not sure how the new ones go together.

 

[Yo_Han]

You should only need 4 per shackle(2 per bolt...they are split into 2s) Might want to replace the rears if you can afford it... the play in the front I'm sure put some wear on the rear. Are those 2 nutts per bolt on top of each other on the left side of your shackle? Thinking maybe that is the side you need to remove the nuts to slide the shackle plate off to remove the shackle.... at least that is how my shackles come off.

 

[Yo_Han]

fergot...if your gonna replace your rear... I believe you need 6 total per side...so a total of 12 bushings to replace all the bushings in your front.

Good luck!
Yo Han

 

[HI^C]

wow, well i say your bushings look ok, its just the extra pressure that the shackle put on the bushings, but wont really know until you pull it apart. IS there a bottom spring bushing? pic it doesnt look like it.
DO you have a drill press? just find a pin to pin length you like cut it off redrill and put them back on. you do not need a tie bar on a shorter style shackle, but you could just weld one in. I still strongly recommend no shackle lift on the front, you loose caster, or put in shims to regain caster.

two bushings per bolt or pin

 

[milesstarkey]

i don't have a drill press or a welder. if i put shorter shackles on, it will lower the vehicle, right? what is the best way to regain height? i would love to do a spring over but i can't weld and can't afford the labor to do it.

 

[HI^C]

Any drill should work, with a bit and a vise to hold them.

rough stock shackles are 3" bolt to bolt.

for every inch of shackle length you gain approx 1/2" lift. approx rule of thumb.

caster angle on the front is a problem, as you loose angle as you increase shackle
length on the front, stock is i believe 2 degrees which in about 2-3" increased shackle
length there is no shackle length left (approx). geometery. Shims would help.

any club, cruiser club, cruiser buddy, any buddy, that could help.

 

[Rice]

In addition to the shackles (as mentioned) being way too long, from the looks of it the bolts are too small for the pin holes. I'm willing to bet there is some free space in there between the outside diameter of the bolt and the inside diameter of the bushings.

If you have absolutely no money (temp fix, not a solution), pull those shackles, cut them shorter, and redrill, but then put in some bolts that properly fit the bushings.

 

[dmaddox]

I had the same problem with some PO Franken-shackles. Better yet a sad attempt to weld in some material to brace them straight. I ended up putting a SR kit in the front and anti-inversions on the back, all from MAF.

Keep in mind, if you run extended shackles or "lift shackles" as they also call them, you are going to throw off your pinion angles and need to shim your springs.

I have 4's in the back and 3's in the front.

HTH,

Dallas

 

[milesstarkey]

i'm about to buy a new master cylinder but don't want CCOT again. does SOR have a good master or who have you had luck with?
second question, what year range for the GM truck should i get the new steering box from? did they change at a certain point that they won't be compatible?

 

[zebrabeefj40]

I've had fairly good luck with rebuilt master cylinders from the local parts houses (Autozone, Advanced Autoparts, NAPA) and the cost is around $40 plus core.

Need a bigger picture to help with ID'ing the steering box though...

HTH,
Nick Jennings

 

[ken_79-fj40]

Those shackles are pretty scary. SOR has some inexpensive lift shackles that are decent quality. I have 2 sets on my rig. They use an odd sized bushing though, so you would need those too. I have a ccot master on my truck. It actually works fine, but when I first got the truck it leaked like crazy out of the front reservoir. I thought it was the pressure switch, but closer inspection revealed the cap didn't seal well. Thankfully a stock toyota one fit fine, and it's been fine for over 2 years.