2H-Knocking sound all of a sudden; help please?!

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Bj70bc
Well-found out the shop that’s the best in region no longer offers cast iron head welding repair: they said they actually sent those to a man in Seattle region but he retired at 88…their web site still says it though and owner said he needs to close the web site down—and he said he thinks nearest other welding shop is Nebraska.
His shop in Spokane is so crazy busy-good sign; so still have cleaning, magnaflux and 3/sides machining done.

Got home did online research as I remember ages ago someone telling me about ‘pinning’ cracks: 2-companies Stitch n lock and Irontite came up-great YouTube videos on stitch n lock-but they were bought out last year by danish company who’s changed their business model to big ships and military contracts that also utilize their install team..not available to general public-though their recording doesn’t say that.

Had great communication with Irontite: very helpful and ordered a repair kit; basically it’s drilling and taping holes in the crack with space between 50% of bolts diameter-putting ceramic sealer on bolts-wrench tight into crack with multiples from one end to the other—then doing same on the in between spaces which overlaps and locks all together-trim excess 1/16th above head then peen down and spread out to further lock crack-sand smooth: ceramic heats firing driving for a glass seal on threads.

Other research shows better than welding 80% of the time-

More details on their website if your interested; likely can fix the head on your shelf for about $400 US-plus tariffs😬-I just paid those on a parts order from 4wheel.

Sorry so long of an update-but want to clarify path we expect-but need to pay head and see test results before final decision-

Parts are back ordered-so will begin work likely end of month and update this thread with photos-with no repair shops around in Canada nor most of us-appears to be the best diy option left.

Apparently been around for over 50 years and restoration blogs all speak well of the method-so hope all goes well-should be testing driving by mid-April.

Take care
 
Bj70bc
Well-found out the shop that’s the best in region no longer offers cast iron head welding repair: they said they actually sent those to a man in Seattle region but he retired at 88…their web site still says it though and owner said he needs to close the web site down—and he said he thinks nearest other welding shop is Nebraska.
His shop in Spokane is so crazy busy-good sign; so still have cleaning, magnaflux and 3/sides machining done.

Got home did online research as I remember ages ago someone telling me about ‘pinning’ cracks: 2-companies Stitch n lock and Irontite came up-great YouTube videos on stitch n lock-but they were bought out last year by danish company who’s changed their business model to big ships and military contracts that also utilize their install team..not available to general public-though their recording doesn’t say that.

Had great communication with Irontite: very helpful and ordered a repair kit; basically it’s drilling and taping holes in the crack with space between 50% of bolts diameter-putting ceramic sealer on bolts-wrench tight into crack with multiples from one end to the other—then doing same on the in between spaces which overlaps and locks all together-trim excess 1/16th above head then peen down and spread out to further lock crack-sand smooth: ceramic heats firing driving for a glass seal on threads.

Other research shows better than welding 80% of the time-

More details on their website if your interested; likely can fix the head on your shelf for about $400 US-plus tariffs😬-I just paid those on a parts order from 4wheel.

Sorry so long of an update-but want to clarify path we expect-but need to pay head and see test results before final decision-

Parts are back ordered-so will begin work likely end of month and update this thread with photos-with no repair shops around in Canada nor most of us-appears to be the best diy option left.

Apparently been around for over 50 years and restoration blogs all speak well of the method-so hope all goes well-should be testing driving by mid-April.

Take care
The loc and stich or iron-tite system is great for freeze cracks on water jackets on the outside of the motor for sure. Are they recommending using it inside the combustion chamber? doesn't sound like a good idea to me.
 
The loc and stich or iron-tite system is great for freeze cracks on water jackets on the outside of the motor for sure. Are they recommending using it inside the combustion chamber? doesn't sound like a good idea to me.
Yes-both companies recommend inside and actually Stich n Lick you tube videos is of the inside head surface-both companies have been doing this for many decades and the process is used in large marine diesels and military as well—so, I’ll do my best and see how it goes.

I had the same concerns you’ve noted-so spent many hours researching many, many sources, as I don’t want to be wasting my time…we’ll see.
 
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It’s fixed!
Thankyou for everyone’s input through the process!
Received the Irontite cold repair kit for head micro cracks ( none leaked-just barely showed under testing) and followed their instructions after watching engine shop YouTube videos-really paid off to get a junk head to practice on first.
Simple process-think those of you with a spare head that needs repair may want to consider this solution as way less than a repair weld shop—IF you can even find one.

See attached photos-lapped in valves while at it.

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did you have to drill into the seat area to capture the cracks?
what about peening and such?
pressure test at all after?
I have a head sitting around in need of welding...
 
did you have to drill into the seat area to capture the cracks?
what about peening and such?
pressure test at all after?
I have a head sitting around in need of welding...
Hello bj70bc-

Yes, I was thinking of you when I mentioned fixing a cracked head as earlier you mentioned that.

As to your questions:
- didn’t have a problem with valve seat cracks to have to drill into. If you go to YouTube there are some videos of engine rebuild shops that did haves cracks into the seat and down into valve throat: they took out the seat-did the repair with about 30 percent overlap of the special tapered bolts.
-peening; I had bought an air premed to use but it danced around too much for me so I did it by hand and that worked well-easier than I thought. I think air peening might be best for external block cracks or head internal valve throat where you can’t get a hammer head.
-after repair pressure test; the best machine shop in this region had no plate patterns that fit the 2H head so unable to test afterwards: Irontite does recommend after repair pressure testing to be sure..Im guessing in Canada your machine shops have plates for testing since the diesels were sold up there for ages.

So, as a backup I put the Irontite all weather seal into the radiator: a ceramic based additive that seals head and block leaks if they occur in the cooling system-saw someone fix an active head gasket leak in real time on YouTube-very impressive.

A first time repair kit was just under $500 US as I included extra taps and drill bits in case I broke one-using the 200 sized tapered bolts-there’s enough bolts for 2 to 4 heads in a kit. The ceramic sealer in the kit is very important as is the peening, per factory.

So, cost is better than sending out to a shop—note; I strong suggest getting some other junk cracked head from engine shop to practice on: I did that on 3-cracks a really learned a lot-especially about technique as well as not over tightening bolts as I broke several off learning extra snug/tight from too tight..

Hope that helps.
 
Hello bj70bc-

Yes, I was thinking of you when I mentioned fixing a cracked head as earlier you mentioned that.

As to your questions:
- didn’t have a problem with valve seat cracks to have to drill into. If you go to YouTube there are some videos of engine rebuild shops that did haves cracks into the seat and down into valve throat: they took out the seat-did the repair with about 30 percent overlap of the special tapered bolts.
-peening; I had bought an air premed to use but it danced around too much for me so I did it by hand and that worked well-easier than I thought. I think air peening might be best for external block cracks or head internal valve throat where you can’t get a hammer head.
-after repair pressure test; the best machine shop in this region had no plate patterns that fit the 2H head so unable to test afterwards: Irontite does recommend after repair pressure testing to be sure..Im guessing in Canada your machine shops have plates for testing since the diesels were sold up there for ages.

So, as a backup I put the Irontite all weather seal into the radiator: a ceramic based additive that seals head and block leaks if they occur in the cooling system-saw someone fix an active head gasket leak in real time on YouTube-very impressive.

A first time repair kit was just under $500 US as I included extra taps and drill bits in case I broke one-using the 200 sized tapered bolts-there’s enough bolts for 2 to 4 heads in a kit. The ceramic sealer in the kit is very important as is the peening, per factory.

So, cost is better than sending out to a shop—note; I strong suggest getting some other junk cracked head from engine shop to practice on: I did that on 3-cracks a really learned a lot-especially about technique as well as not over tightening bolts as I broke several off learning extra snug/tight from too tight..

Hope that helps.
I forgot to mention; if you have to repair a crack through a valve seat: after you finish the machine ship can remachine to tolerance and insert new seats for you
 
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