275/70r18....no lift, no spacers...stock

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Thanks everyone! Both cruisers look awesome. Love the black rims but wouldn't look good on my rig. It used to frustrate me not being able to figure out what exact tire size to go with.....but apparently anything looks good. I've always been a 16" wheel guy but my 04 came with the 18"s....thought I'd change it up. After seeing the 275/70s...I'm even more convinced...looks great. How do you like the performance? Any different?

On the other hand.....

Where would you guys look for a local used set of 16" 100 wheels? I think junk yards rip wheels and tires off before sending the trucks to the graveyard....should I just keep my eyes open on craigslist, ebay and the for sale section.

Anthony, i agree with you to an extent. There are so many choices out there now that I feel like you can have the size you want and get a great tire too. I used to run BFG ATs and know they are a great tire. I put at least 60,000 miles on my last set. They were 285s and readily available....great size/great tire. With the choices out there...it wouldn't be like me being forced to buy a SS TSL bias ply just because I like the tire size....I see what you're saying though.
 
I appreciate you guys bearing with me on all this. You have to admit, this $#!t will make your head spin.

Kneel, it looks like your LC sits a little higher than mine. I was looking at it this morning....mine looks more like Anthony's. I have the stock tires on it now and it looks like I only have a couple inches from the top off the tire to the bottom of the well. Is that because you have your AHC jacked all the way up? I don't have AHC....would a few turns of the torsion bars give me a more level/taller-in-the-front stance? Without needing to replace shocks and adding the diff drop?

I was talking to guys at my shop (not a Toyota shop or off-road shop by any means) and they said to raise the front a little by tweeking the torsion bars...shouldn't have to replace anything OEM (not OME). Just raise it enough to level it out a little. Thinking out loud here...why would Slee offer a level kit for $1000 if it can be done with the OEM torsion bars. I;m sure this has been discussed but I don'thave time to search it now.

What do you guys think?
 
.would a few turns of the torsion bars give me a more level/taller-in-the-front stance? Without needing to replace shocks and adding the diff drop?

I'm going to be doing the exact same thing very soon. I want to crank the stock T-bars up a little to get closer to matching the rear ride height. You can try and get away with doing it and not installing the diff drop. Personally I'm not taking the risk and going to add the diff drop first, it's only $250 and much cheaper/easier then rebuilding your CVD's later.

why would Slee offer a level kit for $1000 if it can be done with the OEM torsion bars. I;m sure this has been discussed but I don'thave time to search it now.

Hold on a sec, did you look at the Slee lift parts list? Yes it's a level kit, but it includes all new OME front/rear shocks, OME front T-bars, OME rear springs, and diff drop kit. The point of this kit is not a major suspension lift, instead it's an improve on on/offroad handling of the vehicle and load carrying capacity. You are certainly getting your money's worth, not a waste for $1000.

The difference between the stock T-bars and the OME T-bars is not the fact that both can provide a suspension lift in the front end. Instead the difference is the diameter of the T-bar itself which changes it's spring characteristics just like a larger diameter traditional spring in the rear would. In other words you can crank the stock T-bar for lift, but you can not make a stock T-bar hold up a front ARB/Slee front bumper with winch like a larger diameter OME T-bar can.
 
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Hold on a sec, did you look at the Slee lift parts list? Yes it's a level kit, but it includes all new OME front/rear shocks, OME front T-bars, OME rear springs, and diff drop kit. The point of this kit is not a major suspension lift, instead it's an improve on on/offroad handling of the vehicle and load carrying capacity. You are certainly getting your money's worth, not a waste for $1000.

No, no, no...I wasn't questioning if the leveling kit was worth the money....rather doubting that it would be okay for me to just crank the OEM t bars and not upgrading anything. I saw the parts list and it's extensive. They make it for a reason which automatically makes me think twice about just adjusting my oem ones.
 
You're over thinking it. 275/70R18's fit with NO MODS. No rubbing at full stuff, nothing. Just do it. The other stuff will come later.

My truck has an AHC lift which has been a never-ending PITA. Thats how I know, even with the system completely dropped, those tires fit without issue. It's gone once out of extended warranty...:bang:
 
you will run a little.. i have that size
 
I'll rub a little? DAMN it! I thought we had it figured out. I was planning on adding a Slee diff drop and cranking the torsion bars. I will not be adding any bumpers.....that I know of.

Abewley, where does it rub? Under what circumstances? Normal driving conditions or full cocked articulation?

Thanks....please post pics if have 'em handy.
 
No two model tires in the same size are alike in "actual size." The tread width is one specification that is usually not listed but would be helpful because it is the "shoulder" of the tire that often rubs. Some tires are more squared-off than other tires. The 275 specification is only the section width or the bulge of the tire.
 
...I'm on a budget...I like the taller skinnier tires but I have the fender flares and don't think a 255 would look good. I wanna go bigger than stock so I hope the 275/70r18 BFG MT2s would be perfect...

hehe... you said "budget" and "BFG" in the same sentence...:lol:
 
BFGs aren't that bad....look at other tires out there. BFG ATs are about the least expensive 275/70r18.

I've been looking at 98-01 100s lately and have considered getting one the first of next year. I may just have to get one and give our '04 to the wife. You can never have to many Land Cruiser, right? I'm just having a hard time justifying doing all these small changes to an '04 with 60k on the clock. I'd almost rather start with an older 100 and do exactly what I want with it i.e full OME, 285/75s, ARB etc. I know I'm wishy washy but...time will tell. Some of the deals on 100s right are insane....
 
Toyo MT'S 275/70/18

Well I put 275/70/18 Toyo Mt's and there was a little rubbing in the front on the bumper (trimmed) and on inner fender liner by the washer bottle. I knew I was replacing worn out shocks with OME 2" lift so it was a big deal to me. These pics are without lift, but I would suggest getting the lift. It looks way better then stock and it is more functional. If you dont want a ruff ride I would get the less stiff shock. The thing to remeber is the edge or corner of the side wall. Mud tires have more sqaure edge the an A/T tire or HWY tire.
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Well I put 275/70/18 Toyo Mt's and there was a little rubbing in the front on the bumper (trimmed) and on inner fender liner by the washer bottle. I knew I was replacing worn out shocks with OME 2" lift so it was a big deal to me. These pics are without lift, but I would suggest getting the lift. It looks way better then stock and it is more functional. If you dont want a ruff ride I would get the less stiff shock. The thing to remeber is the edge or corner of the side wall. Mud tires have more sqaure edge the an A/T tire or HWY tire.

Were you able to "fix" the rubbing issue on the inner fender? Is this only under severe articulation off-road, or in daily driving? Do you think AHC in high mode would fix it?

Also, what do you think of your tires for daily driving? I'm trying to decide if these MT's would be too loud or not...
 
I cannot post a better picture at this time but the Picture that is my Avatar is with 275/70 18 Michelins. There is no rubbing on my 2003 and all has been great. I love this size.
 
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