24V engine in a 12V truck
- Thread starter dieselcruiserhead
- Start date
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rutbeer,
You might have done me a very big favor with those links. I've been having a struggle with my starting for such a very long time and the problem has come back again. I have replaced my Toyota starter relay with a Bosch, but the solenoid isn't available locally except as an experienced part and the landed cost from Japan looks to be about U.S. $ 500.00 so this alternative looks very attractive.
I just have to verify that my solenoid is truly defective.
Kalawang
You might have done me a very big favor with those links. I've been having a struggle with my starting for such a very long time and the problem has come back again. I have replaced my Toyota starter relay with a Bosch, but the solenoid isn't available locally except as an experienced part and the landed cost from Japan looks to be about U.S. $ 500.00 so this alternative looks very attractive.
I just have to verify that my solenoid is truly defective.
Kalawang
Added to FAQ list of links. Also updated the FAQ with a few more worthy threads. Thanks.
Yeah, I'm leaning in that direction myself. I still have to think through a lot of stuff on my conversion before I even pull the 2F. I'm thinking that I will try to get as many 12V parts as I can and then leave the starter 24V. The solar converter is tempting, but I'd rather leave the majority of my stock harness intact. I'm still learning a lot about diesel though and I had to admit my current ignorance on it. I tried to do a compression test on one of my motors and I'm just not sure I even did it right. Oh well, as a matter of course, I think it's wise to crack it open and have a look around while it's still out of the truck and easy to work on. I need to find a 12v cutoff for it and see how hard it will be to adapt a 12v starter to the 13bt block.
It's not all that big a difference between 12 and 24 volt starters, if I were realistic. I drove a 12 volt deisel for some years, and have had some input on a Rover deisel from a friend who owns one. For us here in a tropical country, it's 5 seconds on the heaters before cranking the starter.
What's less obvious is the drain on the one battery by the starter and the corresponding shorter life of that battery, by my experience. It takes a lot of amps to crank a deisel starter and I still have a clear memory of giving away batteries from my deisel to gas cars and watching the battery work perfectly for them whereas that same battery would be unable to crank mine.
You might also try looking into driving a 12 volt starter with 24 volts. My starter, according to Ellery and also according a stick on label on the starter itself, is a 12 volt starter but is cranked by 24 volts. I once tried to start my 1HD-T with 12 volts, but that was a failure. It might have failed to start because I didn't think to feed the heating coils first at the time, and I suppose I might try that someday. It takes a lot of cranking to start a deisel that isn't heated, but I did do a lot of cranking when I tried the 12 volt thing and the 1HD-T didn't start.
Back when I had a 12 volt deisel, one of the tricks I used to get it started when air got into the fuel lines because someone had run it into empty was to series a couple of batteries thereby feeding 24 volts to the starter. The thing cranked very fast when I did that and the car started one click. You have to remember to turn off your stereo first or you might burn it out. I only did the 2 battery thing when one battery wouldn't do and once the car had started, it wouldn't need a second battery to start unless some bonehead drove it to empty again. That didn't happen with me more that 3 times a year.
I much prefer to keep my LC in it's original state, but if push comes to shove, i.e., if I can't find the parts, I would convert to a 12 volt starter even if I have to accept the 5 second heating preliminaries.
Kalawang
What's less obvious is the drain on the one battery by the starter and the corresponding shorter life of that battery, by my experience. It takes a lot of amps to crank a deisel starter and I still have a clear memory of giving away batteries from my deisel to gas cars and watching the battery work perfectly for them whereas that same battery would be unable to crank mine.
You might also try looking into driving a 12 volt starter with 24 volts. My starter, according to Ellery and also according a stick on label on the starter itself, is a 12 volt starter but is cranked by 24 volts. I once tried to start my 1HD-T with 12 volts, but that was a failure. It might have failed to start because I didn't think to feed the heating coils first at the time, and I suppose I might try that someday. It takes a lot of cranking to start a deisel that isn't heated, but I did do a lot of cranking when I tried the 12 volt thing and the 1HD-T didn't start.
Back when I had a 12 volt deisel, one of the tricks I used to get it started when air got into the fuel lines because someone had run it into empty was to series a couple of batteries thereby feeding 24 volts to the starter. The thing cranked very fast when I did that and the car started one click. You have to remember to turn off your stereo first or you might burn it out. I only did the 2 battery thing when one battery wouldn't do and once the car had started, it wouldn't need a second battery to start unless some bonehead drove it to empty again. That didn't happen with me more that 3 times a year.
I much prefer to keep my LC in it's original state, but if push comes to shove, i.e., if I can't find the parts, I would convert to a 12 volt starter even if I have to accept the 5 second heating preliminaries.
Kalawang
rutbeer said:
Easy as pie: Order the correct clocked solinoid from Toyota, and put in a minitruck motor...
Read general considerations of a 13BT into a 40 series:http://www.gscruiserparts.com/13bt_install.html
hth's
gb