22RE rebuild problem

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Dirtnapp

Dirtnapp

10 Year
Joined
Jan 19, 2011
Threads
7
Messages
36
Location
ALASKA
Just took a freshly rebuild 'cratered' motor/truck off a friend who failed and then gave up.

I ripped it down, took the head and block for machine work, proceeded to (re)overhaul motor. Everything went too smooth, dropped the motor lastnight worked all weekend on trying to get this truck done. I have good spark and good fuel pressure, my injectors are functioning properly, but can't get it to fire? I'm totally stumped, went by the book on every aspect and went the extra mile with detail.

The only thing I can think of that happened that might be screwing me is I had my friend roll the crank to TDC to set the distributor and when I saw the #1 piston coming up I looked down at my pulley to watch for the mark and he was rotating the crank in the wrong direction! So now the only thing I can think is can the chain skip a tooth when rotating the crank backwards? I know the chain somewhat balls up on the right side when turned CC, but does anyone know if that can happen?

I'm in a bind and if anyone can help me out I'd buy em a 12er if I could. Thanks guys.
 
It does sound like a timing problem to me. I seriously doubt the chain could jump a tooth by turning the engine backwards, especially by hand, you would feel that happening.

First, check the cam timing. Set the engine at 0deg TDC according to the bottom crank pulley, then pull the valve cover and look for the dimple in the upper sprocket, it should be here:

TopSprocket.jpg


You may need to turn the crank another rev to get the cam at TDC. Once you confirm the cam is OK, now take a look at the distributor. Pop the cap off, taking note of where plug #1 is. The rotor should be pointing directly at the #1 spot.
 
Thanks KLF. You would think it would pop or skip if the chain did jump. I will double verify the timing like you suggested.
 
Ya, it would run even if the cam timing was one tooth off, it would just be lumpy. I'm thinking maybe the distributor is stabbed 180d off.
 
I was discussing this issue with a friend just now and he said when timing a 22re you need to jump the diagnostics box? I never heard that before is that true? I'd have it apart like you suggested already but I'm out of town until tomorrow afternoon.
 
So I verified my cam position, crank on 5 distributor on #1... Nothing. Totally stumped not even a backfire FTW
 
Muttle said:
I'm going with this. It should run with it a couple degrees out.
Click to expand...

I went back and triple checked everything, timing and distributor is in sync... I'm loosing my mind here fellas
 
You have to set timing when the motor is at 5*BTDC on the COMPRESSION stroke. Then you insert your dizzy rotor at 12:00 and the little dimple at 12:00 also. The rotor should then rotate back to about 10:00 or aligned with the #1 spark plug. The bolt hold down hole will be dead center on the adjustment range on the dizzy. This is how you know your on the correct tooth. THen you can jump terminals T1 and TE1 in the diagnosis box and find tune the timing to 5* with a light. There should be next to no adjustment needed, just a slight tap. Then take the jumper out and throw the light on again and the timing mark should be right around 12*. THen your good.

Just a guess, but I bet your setting the timing while the engine is on the EXHAUST stroke, or your 180* out...like KLF said.

There are some really good videos on youtub on how to set the timing, pretty simple search.
 
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