2010 Alternator replacement (2 Viewers)

[fstbll42]

I have 2010 GX460 that my wife drives daily. We have 125k on the truck and the alternator seems like it needs to be replaced. heavy load while starting and dimmed lights. I am going up to the local parts store to have the system checked out but thought i would see if anyone has replaced the alternators themselves or if it is something a shop should do?

I can wrench pretty good but obliviously as with everything in life i know my limitations. any feedback would be greatly appreciated.

Thank you in advance,

Travis

 

[Turbohardtop]

This Tundra video should help.

 

[cruzinZ]

Do it yourself. Get an OEM replacement instead of paying a shop to do it.

 

[MotoDave]

Dredging up an old thread, but I thought others might have input.

The service manuals calls for the radiator to be removed - is that really needed? In the video it seems he's able to push the alternator past the radiator hose.

Service manual also does not mention disconnecting the swaybars - are they out of the way enough with KDSS to work around?

Local Toyota dealer is quoting a 2x markup on the alternator compared to what I can get the part direct from lexus for, plus $1k in labor. Doesn't seem like a 10 hour job to me ...

 

[r2m]

Alternators are usually pretty easy. The only hard part (note: I am not talking about GX's here) i've had with some of my vehicles is reaching around to plug/unplug the wires and maybe belt tensioning.
Just give yourself plenty of time.
Also, although I don't know really anything about you or your rig, if you have a bunch of accessories, e.g.: winch , lights, dual batteries, fridge, etc. you may want to consider a higher output aftermarket alternator.

 

[MotoDave]

Well I thought I'd report back - I changed the alternator on my 2010 GX460 over the weekend. I can say that it is possible to do without removing the radiator, but not much fun. I was able to get the old one out and new one in through the bottom by removing the passenger side sway bar mount and allowing it to droop down. After fitting the new parts I used a floor jack to compress the drivers side KDSS actuator to get the passenger side sway bar mount back in place.

One of the most time consuming parts was trying to get the power steering pump back in place. The rearward threaded bushing wouldn't budge (in the video he shows tapping it easily back in with a hammer - no go for me). I would up just sanding a tiny bit off the PS pump mounting boss, so that it would slide back into place, figuring that the bushing is meant to slide to accomodate variations in this boss width in the first place.

Overall it took me about 5 hours working in the driveway, and only one blood blister to show for it.

 

[re_guderian]

Well I thought I'd report back - I changed the alternator on my 2010 GX460 over the weekend. I can say that it is possible to do without removing the radiator, but not much fun. I was able to get the old one out and new one in through the bottom by removing the passenger side sway bar mount and allowing it to droop down. After fitting the new parts I used a floor jack to compress the drivers side KDSS actuator to get the passenger side sway bar mount back in place.

One of the most time consuming parts was trying to get the power steering pump back in place. The rearward threaded bushing wouldn't budge (in the video he shows tapping it easily back in with a hammer - no go for me). I would up just sanding a tiny bit off the PS pump mounting boss, so that it would slide back into place, figuring that the bushing is meant to slide to accomodate variations in this boss width in the first place.

Overall it took me about 5 hours working in the driveway, and only one blood blister to show for it.

Thanks for the tips. I felt like I was delivering a baby trying to get the alternator out of my 100 series with the 2UZ-FE. If there is a next time, I'm yanking the radiator.

As for dealer labor quotes, I don't think there's any job that's not "a thousand dollars" anymore. They all seem to end up right about there. I've been using my independent guy for all but the critical stuff, and an alternator certainly isn't critical.

 

[r2m]

Overall it took me about 5 hours working in the driveway, and only one blood blister to show for it.

At probably $150.00/hr billing rate, I wonder how long a professional tech could do it?
These are some of the things I weigh for work like that, is my 5 hours worth more to me doing something else and just get it done by someone else?
I know one has to factor the "fun" factor of many people that truly enjoy busting knuckles.
Don't get me wrong, I can and have done it for most of my life and I have ALL the tools and scars to prove it, but the only thing I really like working on my rig now are the mods.
Just don't like servicing, washing etc. Let someone else do it and have it done in way less time while I spend time with my family, in the surf, snow or on a trail somewhere remote..
But again, that's my .05¢ (inflation, you know...) of opinion.

 

[Mountaintrails]

I am with you. I grew up with no money and in a farm environment. You did it yourself or it didn’t get done. Then I raced cars out of high school. I got into the construction building trades and built and wheeled Jeeps for 30 plus years. Now in my 50s I find it a pain in the butt to do the critical stuff myself. You have to decide what’s best for you and your finances.

 

[MotoDave]

I was quoted 4.5 hours @ $165/hr by the local Lexus dealer to do it, and I believe that's about how long it'd take a tech following the book (remove bumper cover and radiator). The odd thing was the Toyota dealer who Ive had do lots of work in the past on my Tundra wanted 6 hours @ $185/hr, not to mention they were wanting to charge a 30% markup over MSRP for the part and fed me a BS line about it not being a Toyota part so they couldn't sell it without a markup.

Either way it seemed like a simpler job than it turned out to be so I tackled it myself - might have just had the Lexus dealer do it if I had known how hard it is to get to.

 

[Wsea206]

I can confirm that pulling the alternator through the front/bottom works. Having changed many alternators for friends and family, this was not the most difficult but still tight. The hoses on the lexus are not the same as the video. A couple additional notes:
1. I did not need to remove the skid plate. I just let it hang in the front.
2. You only need to remove the passenger swag bar side and let it rest on the car frame. I also removed the stabilizer bar link to get more room.
3. There are two hoses (maybe A/c line) which route via the front of the car which you need to unbolt. The metal bulb gets in the way and you need to move an extra inch forward to pull the alternator through.
4. I also removed the plastic cover in the wheel-well which allows to get a hand through to unbolt the parts.
5. my power steering pump went back in easily but I had a little trouble lining the bolts due to the tight fit.

I would have to agree that it took 5 (maybe more hours). Although, I have football playing on the TV so I take breaks.

Helpful item, I always keep old shipping Styrofoam in the garage to place behind my hand for hard bolts. It pads my hand when bolt gives preventing injury. You also need PB Blaster for the lower alternator bolts. They maybe stuck.