2008 vs 2010 and newer (5 Viewers)

Bloomer

SILVER Star
Joined
Dec 25, 2005
Messages
1,360
Location
Just past the middle of nowhere in South Texas
Besides the larger engine and RSCA button, any major differences between the 2008 and 2010+ year models?

Is there a noticeable difference in power between the 239 hp engine and the newer engine?

Been searching for the right FJC and thought I would buy a 2010+ with the newer engine. Came across a 2008 with low mileage that I may consider if the price is right. Planning a mild build once I purchase a FJC, mainly a little lift, larger tires and new bumpers. Basically looking to build one that will run me back and forth to Co and around the mountains when visiting Co.

New to the FJC world so your input would be greatly appreciated.
 
Joined
Sep 30, 2009
Messages
7
Location
Bothell, WA
Larger engine? The new engine has Dual VVTi and roller rockers, and the oil filter is a different type/location. It displaces the same size though.

The power difference isn't very much, slightly more horsepower/slightly less torque. I doubt you'd really be able to tell the difference while driving, although I've never personally driven one of the newer engines.

The later years have the stronger inner fenders... and as Delancy points out the rear diff is .2'' bigger.

The earlier FJ's have all the accessory wiring already in them, the new ones are only wired for what they come with. Things like the subwoofer in the rear, fog lights, inverter, etc.

The upgraded head unit is nicer on the new ones (bluetooth, etc).

There's probably more...
 

Bloomer

SILVER Star
Joined
Dec 25, 2005
Messages
1,360
Location
Just past the middle of nowhere in South Texas
sinerasis said:
Larger engine? The new engine has Dual VVTi and roller rockers, and the oil filter is a different type/location. It displaces the same size though.

The power difference isn't very much, slightly more horsepower/slightly less torque. I doubt you'd really be able to tell the difference while driving, although I've never personally driven one of the newer engines.

The later years have the stronger inner fenders... and as Delancy points out the rear diff is .2'' bigger.

The earlier FJ's have all the accessory wiring already in them, the new ones are only wired for what they come with. Things like the subwoofer in the rear, fog lights, inverter, etc.

The upgraded head unit is nicer on the new ones (bluetooth, etc).

There's probably more...

Thanks for the good summary. What improvement does the dual VVTi and roller rockers provide? Any concerns in models that do not have dual VVTi or roller rockers? What benefit or disadvantage does the change in oil filter type and location provide?

Is the extra 0.2" differential additional oil capacity or is there more strength in the design?

I've seen in other posts where 2007 year models had inner fender issues, but I thought that was corrected for 2008 and newer. Was I mistaken? Any more improvements to the inner fender in 2010 and newer models?

Sorry for all the questions. I appreciate the help. I know a little more about the 80's, but the FJCs are all new to me.

Thanks again!
 

Delancy

SILVER Star
Joined
Sep 16, 2011
Messages
12,366
Location
Tulsa
The 8.2" versus the 8" is a nominal, but necessary, improvement, considering the 8" rear on the 07-09 us the same used in mini trucks, yet the FJC is a fat pig, in comparison.

If familiar with the 80, the front differential in the 80 is the same R&P, just reverse cut, yet the FJC weighs little less, in stock form, than an 80 series. They're notoriously known for failures off road, especially with 35s and the like. As of yet, I don't know of any newer failures, but only know a couple that have ran larger tires and actually wheel.

I went through a similar process as you are. I had negotiated on a new, but knew the inevitable trail rash would occur, so went with the "off road" packaged 08, and am glad I did.

The 10k I saved (at that time, the spread between) went towards mods, and it didn't hurt near as bad the first time I pinstriped the sides.

At that time, there weren't SC options available for +10, and I had to have, but since decided against......for now.

All said, I'd consider the older models, if wheeling, just to save the initial bite into the wallet. There's tons of good deals out there, and a lot of modified rigs are for sale at a lot less than cost. (if your intent is to wheel it).

If I were buying again today, knowing what I know now, I'd buy Rundog's SA FJC without hesitation, and be done with it.
 

Delancy

SILVER Star
Joined
Sep 16, 2011
Messages
12,366
Location
Tulsa
Hornsfan said:
Even after trying mine out the other day??

Long list of "to dos" in front of, at least.

Keep in mind I've 70k more likes than yours, too.
 

Delancy

SILVER Star
Joined
Sep 16, 2011
Messages
12,366
Location
Tulsa
Hornsfan said:
What does 70k more likes than yours mean? Is that a facebook thing?

Hahahahahaha.

No, it was meant to read "70k more miles". Haha.

What's Facebook?
 
Last edited:
Joined
Sep 30, 2009
Messages
7
Location
Bothell, WA
Thanks for the good summary. What improvement does the dual VVTi and roller rockers provide? Any concerns in models that do not have dual VVTi or roller rockers? What benefit or disadvantage does the change in oil filter type and location provide?

Is the extra 0.2" differential additional oil capacity or is there more strength in the design?

I've seen in other posts where 2007 year models had inner fender issues, but I thought that was corrected for 2008 and newer. Was I mistaken? Any more improvements to the inner fender in 2010 and newer models?
Roller rockers are more efficient because there's actually a bearing where the valve gets pushed instead of just metal on metal friction. Some will tell you that it's a reliability thing. I've also heard slightly lower oil temperatures and being able to get more power out of very heavily modified motors. That was mostly dealing with Chevy small blocks though. I'm not hip enough with motors to really have an opinion that would be worth anything...

Dual vs Single VVTi just means that both the intake and exhaust cams have variable timing lobes. This is probably the main reason for the horsepower bump (and torque loss).

The benefit of the older oil filter is that it's right on top of the engine, up front and SUPER easy to change. It's mounted upside down, which some will say is a bad thing, just make sure to get a filter with a stand pipe and I think it's all good (Toyota OEM is a great filter and cheap online). The newer filter is a cartridge type, and I don't really know a lot about them. It's less material, so in theory more environmentally friendly? It's up under the engine and I think is a little messy by comparison. You have to remove a skid plate to change the oil on the newer ones, you don't on the older ones.

Regarding inner fenders, there have been people with cracks and tears all the way up to 2009. I don't recall seeing anyone with a 2010+ that wasn't obviously doing something crazy to begin with. 2007 is by far the worst though, there were 3(?) revisions to the fenders until the current (fixed) version.

The .2'' larger ring gear is a good thing, although there are aftermarket options for the older, smaller ones if you ever break them. I personally wouldn't see that as a HUGE decision maker, but yes the larger one should be a little stronger. I suppose if you were planning to build some kind of crazy big rock machine, or run real big tires... but at that point, it'd probably be in your plan to use another axle anyway.

I would personally be weighing the pro's and con's against the super easy to change oil filter and the inner fenders. Price also factors in there obviously... I don't think you can really go wrong either way. I love my FJ.
 

Bloomer

SILVER Star
Joined
Dec 25, 2005
Messages
1,360
Location
Just past the middle of nowhere in South Texas
Delancy said:
The 8.2" versus the 8" is a nominal, but necessary, improvement, considering the 8" rear on the 07-09 us the same used in mini trucks, yet the FJC is a fat pig, in comparison.

If familiar with the 80, the front differential in the 80 is the same R&P, just reverse cut, yet the FJC weighs little less, in stock form, than an 80 series. They're notoriously known for failures off road, especially with 35s and the like. As of yet, I don't know of any newer failures, but only know a couple that have ran larger tires and actually wheel.

I went through a similar process as you are. I had negotiated on a new, but knew the inevitable trail rash would occur, so went with the "off road" packaged 08, and am glad I did.

The 10k I saved (at that time, the spread between) went towards mods, and it didn't hurt near as bad the first time I pinstriped the sides.

At that time, there weren't SC options available for +10, and I had to have, but since decided against......for now.

All said, I'd consider the older models, if wheeling, just to save the initial bite into the wallet. There's tons of good deals out there, and a lot of modified rigs are for sale at a lot less than cost. (if your intent is to wheel it).

If I were buying again today, knowing what I know now, I'd buy Rundog's SA FJC without hesitation, and be done with it.

Again, thanks for the help. This is good stuff and very helpful. Don't think I'll ever go as large as 35's. I'm pretty easy on my vehicles and the most it will ever see is mild trails through the mountains. That being said, I want to build it to handle a step above what I'd be willing to take on........might get a wild hair one day. I'll have to look up Rundogs.
 

Bloomer

SILVER Star
Joined
Dec 25, 2005
Messages
1,360
Location
Just past the middle of nowhere in South Texas
sinerasis said:
Roller rockers are more efficient because there's actually a bearing where the valve gets pushed instead of just metal on metal friction. Some will tell you that it's a reliability thing. I've also heard slightly lower oil temperatures and being able to get more power out of very heavily modified motors. That was mostly dealing with Chevy small blocks though. I'm not hip enough with motors to really have an opinion that would be worth anything...

Dual vs Single VVTi just means that both the intake and exhaust cams have variable timing lobes. This is probably the main reason for the horsepower bump (and torque loss).

The benefit of the older oil filter is that it's right on top of the engine, up front and SUPER easy to change. It's mounted upside down, which some will say is a bad thing, just make sure to get a filter with a stand pipe and I think it's all good (Toyota OEM is a great filter and cheap online). The newer filter is a cartridge type, and I don't really know a lot about them. It's less material, so in theory more environmentally friendly? It's up under the engine and I think is a little messy by comparison. You have to remove a skid plate to change the oil on the newer ones, you don't on the older ones.

Regarding inner fenders, there have been people with cracks and tears all the way up to 2009. I don't recall seeing anyone with a 2010+ that wasn't obviously doing something crazy to begin with. 2007 is by far the worst though, there were 3(?) revisions to the fenders until the current (fixed) version.

The .2'' larger ring gear is a good thing, although there are aftermarket options for the older, smaller ones if you ever break them. I personally wouldn't see that as a HUGE decision maker, but yes the larger one should be a little stronger. I suppose if you were planning to build some kind of crazy big rock machine, or run real big tires... but at that point, it'd probably be in your plan to use another axle anyway.

I would personally be weighing the pro's and con's against the super easy to change oil filter and the inner fenders. Price also factors in there obviously... I don't think you can really go wrong either way. I love my FJ.

Wow, thanks for taking the time to right all this. The inner fender thing concerns me a little. Ice been shipping for awhile. Just missed a 2010 that I really liked and found a low mileage 08 I'm equally excited about. Again, lack of dual VVTi and the inner fender issue has me questioning. Really do appreciate the input.
 
Joined
Mar 22, 2006
Messages
1,388
Location
Auburn, WA.
Keep in mind too that not all early FJs have the inner fender cracks.
Mine was built June of 2006, and I have modified mine quite a bit, and I have zero cracks in the fenders.
 

Delancy

SILVER Star
Joined
Sep 16, 2011
Messages
12,366
Location
Tulsa
Corey said:
Keep in mind too that not all early FJs have the inner fender cracks.
Mine was built June of 2006, and I have modified mine quite a bit, and I have zero cracks in the fenders.

Same here. I'm no desert bomber, but have put it through the paces.

On that note. It'd be interesting to see the geographical area where the inner fender tears were more prominent. I'd bet western US, running dunes and washboards, but merely an assumption based upon participation elsewhere.

Regardless of year, there are inherent strengths and weaknesses of the FJC platform. For the most part, realizing the bounds and not attempting to exceed, as in any vehicle, results a well rounded, very capable vehicle that handles relatively well on road, and does great in its element off.
 

1911

chupacabra
Joined
Aug 11, 2006
Messages
6,361
Location
Parker County, Texas
Keep in mind too that not all early FJs have the inner fender cracks.
Mine was built June of 2006, and I have modified mine quite a bit, and I have zero cracks in the fenders.

Same here, and I've got more than 125,000 miles on mine and it's very heavy and it's been off-road a lot.
 

Mtbcoach

Moderator
Joined
Jun 29, 2006
Messages
4,333
Location
Carolina Beach NC
Keep in mind too that not all early FJs have the inner fender cracks.
Mine was built June of 2006, and I have modified mine quite a bit, and I have zero cracks in the fenders.

X2...

Same here. I'm no desert bomber, but have put it through the paces.

On that note. It'd be interesting to see the geographical area where the inner fender tears were more prominent. I'd bet western US, running dunes and washboards, but merely an assumption based upon participation elsewhere.

Regardless of year, there are inherent strengths and weaknesses of the FJC platform. For the most part, realizing the bounds and not attempting to exceed, as in any vehicle, results a well rounded, very capable vehicle that handles relatively well on road, and does great in its element off.

Well said and I agree, I'd also like to see a geographical breakdown of the inner fender issues. I've only seen a couple out hear in NC...

Same here, and I've got more than 125,000 miles on mine and it's very heavy and it's been off-road a lot.

Wow, your mileage is growing and growing, gotta love that...:beer:
 

Delancy

SILVER Star
Joined
Sep 16, 2011
Messages
12,366
Location
Tulsa
I'm at 95k. Bought with 45k January of 2011 (F350 6.0 shot a rod September of last year. Took until April of this year to find a short block, so FJC has seen daily duties since) and the only issues I've had are self induced and due to LT and über modification (if you want to call it that).
 

1911

chupacabra
Joined
Aug 11, 2006
Messages
6,361
Location
Parker County, Texas
Wow, your mileage is growing and growing, gotta love that...:beer:

Yeah, it's my work truck so it keeps getting miles driving out to drilling rigs and back. I thought about replacing it with a Tacoma but it runs so good and I'd hate to lose all my mods so I just decided to keep it. I was going to give it to one of my sons, but I ended up buying him a 60 instead.
 

Mtbcoach

Moderator
Joined
Jun 29, 2006
Messages
4,333
Location
Carolina Beach NC
Yeah, it's my work truck so it keeps getting miles driving out to drilling rigs and back. I thought about replacing it with a Tacoma but it runs so good and I'd hate to lose all my mods so I just decided to keep it. I was going to give it to one of my sons, but I ended up buying him a 60 instead.

You are a good man Lee. One of my daughters is lobbying for a 62, if I find the right one, I just might oblige her...:beer:
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Top Bottom