2002 LX Complete audio upgrade

[1gr8FoSemty]

So, I am a fairly new cruiser owner. This is a 2002 LX470 with ML Nav with built-in AC controls. I have seen the pre-2003 Nav delete and a few videos. I want to replace the head unit with android auto, rear camera, and steering wheel controls (if possible). I want to also replace all speakers and add an amp. I will remove the interior and dyna-mat everything in the process. I would prefer the digital controls vs manual dial controls for AC.
Question: Has anyone successfully installed a head unit that has AC controls built in for a 2002 or earlier?
If not, which is more preferred, manual or digital AC controls?
I am ok with a Chinese radio. Any recommendations on audio equipment or adding steering wheel audio controls?

I appreciate everyone's advice.

 

[suprarx7nut]

I can't help with the HVAC conversion, but for audio in a 100 series, here's my advice:

Plan on running all new wiring and completely ditching the OEM stuff. All speakers, all amps, and of course head unit.

Above all else, prioritize money on a single pair of front speakers. The 100 is quiet enough while driving that you can really hear the nice stuff. If that means skipping rear speakers altogether, so be it. You'll hit deminishing returns once you get up to ~ $500-700 per pair, but below that the differences as you climb the price ladder are noticeable, IMO. I'd take a really awesome single pair of fronts over mid-range front and rears any day.

I currently have a pair of Virtus 602 from Morel in the front doors and a couple Focal 27V2 subs in a sealed enclosure. Head unit is a ~$250 Pioneer from a few years back, nothing special. Audio runs through an Audiocontrol DSP amp (800.4 or something). Subs get their own 500W JL Monoblock amp made 10-15 years ago. I still have tuning and door treatment opportunities, but even as is it's a really nice setup. I don't miss the rear speakers one iota, but if I had money and time to burn I'd install another set of the virtus 602's and try to add in some light rear fill to widen the soundstage.

 

[1gr8FoSemty]

I can't help with the HVAC conversion, but for audio in a 100 series, here's my advice:

Plan on running all new wiring and completely ditching the OEM stuff. All speakers, all amps, and of course head unit.

Above all else, prioritize money on a single pair of front speakers. The 100 is quiet enough while driving that you can really hear the nice stuff. If that means skipping rear speakers altogether, so be it. You'll hit deminishing returns once you get up to ~ $500-700 per pair, but below that the differences as you climb the price ladder are noticeable, IMO. I'd take a really awesome single pair of fronts over mid-range front and rears any day.

I currently have a pair of Virtus 602 from Morel in the front doors and a couple Focal 27V2 subs in a sealed enclosure. Head unit is a ~$250 Pioneer from a few years back, nothing special. Audio runs through an Audiocontrol DSP amp (800.4 or something). Subs get their own 500W JL Monoblock amp made 10-15 years ago. I still have tuning and door treatment opportunities, but even as is it's a really nice setup. I don't miss the rear speakers one iota, but if I had money and time to burn I'd install another set of the virtus 602's and try to add in some light rear fill to widen the soundstage.

Great advice on replacing all wiring. I will be doing that for sure. Those Virtus 602's are expensive, but I agree, you get what you pay for.

 

[suprarx7nut]

Great advice on replacing all wiring. I will be doing that for sure. Those Virtus 602's are expensive, but I agree, you get what you pay for.

Expensive indeed. I splurged because I scored an incredible pile of audio stuff on craigslist from a guy's failed restoration. The profits and savings from that score left me with more than enough to cover the Virtus pair. Under normal circumstances I would have been hard pressed to swallow $450 for a couple speakers.

Even at lower price points, though, quality and realism can increase greatly as you go from a $120 pair to a $200 set. Same for $200-$400. The rest of the labor and materials costs enough you might as well put the bulk of your $$ into the front speakers. It can make a huge difference.

 

[chogunn]

So, I am a fairly new cruiser owner. This is a 2002 LX470 with ML Nav with built-in AC controls. I have seen the pre-2003 Nav delete and a few videos. I want to replace the head unit with android auto, rear camera, and steering wheel controls (if possible). I want to also replace all speakers and add an amp. I will remove the interior and dyna-mat everything in the process. I would prefer the digital controls vs manual dial controls for AC.
Question: Has anyone successfully installed a head unit that has AC controls built in for a 2002 or earlier?
If not, which is more preferred, manual or digital AC controls?
I am ok with a Chinese radio. Any recommendations on audio equipment or adding steering wheel audio controls?

I appreciate everyone's advice.

View attachment 1993577

You might want to look at the Tesla style head units; I believe I saw somewhere that an option for an 02 LX with Nav was being offered on Alibaba or eBay. Otherwise you’ll follow the pre-03 Nav Delete info found here and have fun. I went much cheaper with speakers when I replaced the OEM and still think it’s a big upgrade. Didn’t feel the need to rewire to the doors though... The existing wire does the trick for me. Everything else for the upgrades you want to do is in here. It’s well worth it.

 

[1gr8FoSemty]

You might want to look at the Tesla style head units; I believe I saw somewhere that an option for an 02 LX with Nav was being offered on Alibaba or eBay. Otherwise you’ll follow the pre-03 Nav Delete info found here and have fun. I went much cheaper with speakers when I replaced the OEM and still think it’s a big upgrade. Didn’t feel the need to rewire to the doors though... The existing wire does the trick for me. Everything else for the upgrades you want to do is in here. It’s well worth it.

Awesome! Tesla radio is not an option for a 2002 from all of my research. I could be incorrect though. Did you do a radio combination with added steering wheel audio controls? Because, I have not found anything on that yet. I would love to get an example of a radio with steering wheel audio controls added and a backup camera. I would rather go extremely cheap on the audio system because I agree, it will be a big upgrade no matter what.
Did you go from the nav screen with AC controls to nav delete with manual or digital controls?

 

[chogunn]

Yes, if you find the nav delete thread my info and a lot of others is there. There is an example of someone adding a steering wheel from an 06 and getting steering wheel controls.

 

[1gr8FoSemty]

Yes, if you find the nav delete thread my info and a lot of others is there. There is an example of someone adding a steering wheel from an 06 and getting steering wheel controls.

I read all of your posts. Very encouraging. I really appreciate the details. Does the amp obstruct any passenger seat movement? Does it just push the components and rear doors or do you have the amp also pushing a sub? Are you happy with the difference in color of bezel vs rest of the trim?
If I am changing all speakers and replacing the amp, do I need the Metra kit?

 

[hickuptruck]

What size speakers fit in the doors with the least amount of fabbing/trimming? Is it 6.5 Inches for the front and 4 inches for rear doors?

 

[Pandanoid]

What size speakers fit in the doors with the least amount of fabbing/trimming? Is it 6.5 Inches for the front and 4 inches for rear doors?

I ran 6.5" in the front for woofers and 4" in the rear doors. I only had to cut a few things off the factory housing and the supplies brackets with the new speakers.

 

[Pucker5]

Lol! Treat your doors and spend $200 and it will sound better than a
$600 Comp set in untreated doors.

You can get a Nice crisp component set up front paired with a solid mid bass driver in the rear doors and sub in back (properly built enclosure with a bigger sub) all run on a really clean five channel.

 

[suprarx7nut]

Lol! Treat your doors and spend $200 and it will sound better than a
$600 Comp set in untreated doors.

You can get a Nice crisp component set up front paired with a solid mid bass driver in the rear doors and sub in back (properly built enclosure with a bigger sub) all run on a really clean five channel.

Why not the better comp set and treated doors?

 

[chogunn]

I read all of your posts. Very encouraging. I really appreciate the details. Does the amp obstruct any passenger seat movement? Does it just push the components and rear doors or do you have the amp also pushing a sub? Are you happy with the difference in color of bezel vs rest of the trim?
If I am changing all speakers and replacing the amp, do I need the Metra kit?

I’m running my door speakers straight from the head unit. For me: plenty of power and sound. I ran RCA to under the passenger seat and installed an 8” powered sub. It’s not a great fit but the seat doesn’t hang up on it. Barely.
The land cruiser knob controller I received had that AWFUL fake wood sticker trim stuck to it. I peeled it off and used some alcohol or something like that to remove the sticky. The black plastic is not supposed to be covered; it has little embossed details, it looks like a finished product. Dealerships stuck that ugly fake wood sticker on it. The black plastic does not match the real Lexus wood trim. But I don’t really notice it. If you aren’t looking to see that it’s different, I don’t think you’d know. Also, functionality is +100 to have the three knobs. I did not anticipate how much I love not needing to look.

I used the Metra kit because I could connect it to my new head unit and just plug into the factory harness and the wires are there for antenna, power, ground, etc. I ran 9 wires from head to under passenger seat and connected to original speaker wire there, to the doors. I think that’s probably the easiest way. Metra harness was cheap. Also, get one of those cheap parking brake bypass things. Makes CarPlay more usable while driving.

 

[1gr8FoSemty]

I like your idea of a powered sub. I would probly get a small amp to push the door speakers from my situation. Would you mind telling me which powered sub you got? Also, what parking brake bypass module will I need to get? I am unfamiliar with that. I love your idea on the 3 knob. You have sold me on that. Now, trying to find it with the pigtails will be a challenge. Does it come with 3 or 4 pigtails?

 

[Pucker5]

I like your idea of a powered sub. I would probly get a small amp to push the door speakers from my situation. Would you mind telling me which powered sub you got? Also, what parking brake bypass module will I need to get? I am unfamiliar with that. I love your idea on the 3 knob. You have sold me on that. Now, trying to find it with the pigtails will be a challenge. Does it come with 3 or 4 pigtails?

Get a five channel and get a small sub and enclosure that is made for the air specs. It’s not going to save you money. Powered subs suck.

 

[1gr8FoSemty]

@Pucker5 . Do they make enclosures small enough for under a seat? I don't want anything exposed or taking up room.

 

[Pucker5]

In respects to bass (subs primary output) you need air travel and airspace. The only location under a seat available is the fronts right?. That’s going to kill your sound imaging.

 

[1gr8FoSemty]

In respects to bass (subs primary output) you need air travel and airspace. The only location under a seat available is the fronts right?. That’s going to kill your sound imaging.

Yeah man, I think if I get me a good quality component set and heavily use sound deadener and baffling in the door cavities and decent quality mid drivers for the rear doors with a good clean amp, I will be good as is. But, i would like a sub. Maybe someone on here has built an under seat enclosure that is ported properly to move air like subs should. ....This is gonna cost me. Lol

 

[Pucker5]

Midbass drivers in properly treated rear doors can fill the gap that even a lot of aftermarket systems lack (80hz to 250hz) but requires a bit more power to those drivers.

Gold alert... Korean board six channel for 500 doll hairs..

Symphony S6 6 Channel Amplifier

store.crescendoaudio.com

The highlights

S6 Rated Power output @ 13.8v (RMS):
Channels 1 through 4:
2ohm: 170w
4ohm: 100w
channel 1/2 or 3/4 Bridged at 4ohm: 350w

Channel 5 and 6:
2 ohm: 350w
4 ohm: 200w
Bridged at 4ohm: 700w

S4 Dimensions: 13.25"L x 7.6"

You can grab components up front(2 ohm or 4 ohm), grab 8 ohm rear door drivers(very inexpensive) and run them parallel on channel 3/4 bridged which will give you 175 watts to each (gooood midbass) and here’s the kicker.... still have 700 watts rms at 2 ohms for a sub In factory location

Amazon product ASIN B01BLVEZUC

 

[erwall]

So, I am a fairly new cruiser owner. This is a 2002 LX470 with ML Nav with built-in AC controls. I have seen the pre-2003 Nav delete and a few videos. I want to replace the head unit with android auto, rear camera, and steering wheel controls (if possible). I want to also replace all speakers and add an amp. I will remove the interior and dyna-mat everything in the process. I would prefer the digital controls vs manual dial controls for AC.
Question: Has anyone successfully installed a head unit that has AC controls built in for a 2002 or earlier?
If not, which is more preferred, manual or digital AC controls?
I am ok with a Chinese radio. Any recommendations on audio equipment or adding steering wheel audio controls?

I appreciate everyone's advice.

View attachment 1993577

I recently did this on my 02 LX470. Did a nav delete and got a Pioneer AVH-W4400NEX, really like it. Added rear cam to it as well but no steering wheel controls. This Pioneer does wireless AA and carplay but wanted to be able to do it via usb as well so I replaced the cig lighter with ports that are run to the usb on the head unit. Used a Metra harness to use stock speaker wires and replaced all 4 door speakers with 6.5". Let me know if you need any help or advice!