2 New Questions for the Group

[Elbert]

Truck is a 86 FJ60 with GM 5.7 V8 (vortec), marks adapter, toyota 5 speed, split case transfer case.

(1) issue number one....ever since I bought the truck when it was stock...the transfer case would pop out of gear. At first this happend in 4wheel drive... it would stay in 4wheel low but pop out of gear under torque/load at 4wheel high.

Well fast fwd..now have dual tc shfiter. Truck will stay in 4wheel high , but will pop out of gear (at the transfer case) in 4wheel low). This happens at teh worse time....very steep hill climbs under load.

I can give the truck hell under 4wheel high without issue, and did so at Harlan all day Saturday. Low range was a differnt story..had to stop using low range alltogether as TC would not stay in low range.

I'm thinking it may be the body flexing a little bit at teh gear shifter as it appears the floor pan may need to be notiched a little. Its spefically the hi/low range shifter thats the issue, and pops out of low range. I can move teh shifter back to the rear postion which is low range and it feels as it its hittign the floorbard (yes I nned to physically check that)...thoughts?

(2) Emergencey Brake Cable

I noticed Saturday that the bracket on the driver side of the rear axle that attaches to the emergencey brake cable assembly appears to be broken. Emergencey brake still works...dumb question but what does this bracket do and is it important to replace, and if its important wonder if Toyota even stock this anymore?

 

[GLTHFJ60]

As for the transfer case popping out of gear, two things come to mind.

1. The detent spring for the high-low shift rail in the transfer case could be too weak and is not holding the shift rail in place well enough anymore. The fix would be to take the spring out and space it with some small washers, or replace it with a new / stronger / longer spring.

2. The inner boot for the transfer case could be rigid from the 20+ years of use and could be pushing the shifter over. The fix would be to replace it or cut it to loosen it up some. Diagnosis would be to remove it and see if the issue exists, then cut / replace if that ends up being the issue.

 

[StevoJonesFJ60]

Does the truck have a body lift on it?

If so the 4wd shifter may be hitting the body as the truck flexes. You may need to pull the shift boot and clearance the opening a bit.

 

[ntsqd]

Normally the dogs in the t/c that are engaged (power flowing thru them) in hi or low range have a very, very slight angle ground on them. That angle is there to keep the gear engaged and is why you can't shift it under load or bind. Once the shifter pops out of either range that angle gets damaged. The more that it pops out, the more that it will continue to pop out until it reaches the point where it will not stay in, not even with Hercules trying to hold it in,

I say "normally" because unless parts are interchangeable, and they got swapped for some reason, this sort of cause does not move from one gear or range to another. Assuming that the t/c has not been apart so no parts were swapped around (intentionally or not) I'm also thinking linkage. What you might do is run the truck up an impromptu articulation ramp and then check the linkage clearances. Articulate it in both directions. Could also use Roger Brown's (4crawler.com) car ramp trick to do the same thing on flat and level ground.

 

[Sethro60]

I had the same problem poing out of 4 low. Got super stuck in a mud hole because of it- not fun. New tranny mount fixed the problem.

 

[MBerry]

Elbert,

I believe this is internal in the TC somewhere. Worn detents or something in there not holding when you put the power to it.

 

[Tinker]

I'd attack the interference problem between the shift lever & the body 1st, then the washers/springs as Johnny suggested. Mine was pesky but I finally beat it with both these complementary solutions.

If that doesn't work get a strong bungee or nylon strap with a "snugging" buckle & hold the lever in position.

Other than that, how do you like the dual-lever transfer case controls? I saw the ones Spook50 was installing & liked 'em.

 

[Elbert]

Does the truck have a body lift on it?

If so the 4wd shifter may be hitting the body as the truck flexes. You may need to pull the shift boot and clearance the opening a bit.

no body lift

 

[Elbert]

As for the transfer case popping out of gear, two things come to mind.

1. The detent spring for the high-low shift rail in the transfer case could be too weak and is not holding the shift rail in place well enough anymore. The fix would be to take the spring out and space it with some small washers, or replace it with a new / stronger / longer spring.

2. The inner boot for the transfer case could be rigid from the 20+ years of use and could be pushing the shifter over. The fix would be to replace it or cut it to loosen it up some. Diagnosis would be to remove it and see if the issue exists, then cut / replace if that ends up being the issue.

Ok..I'll look at the boot to see what I can tell. I know at full engagemetn to the rear the shifter for high/low hits something hard which is either the boot or floopan, and acts as if its not coming back far enough.

 

[Elbert]

FYI... bungee cord does not wwork anymore..I tried that on Sat, also tried holding the shifter manually and no luch there...its like its engaged but maybe barely, if that makes sense. s*** lever did not move much at all when it disengaged by itself. We installed new detent balls and springs some time ago when tc was rebuilt. To the extent I know no hard parts have ever been replaced. I think its more than the detnet balls and spring. I'm almost betting at this point its a linkag issue or interfernece with the shifter istelf..maybe the boot or floorpan.

I really like the dual TC shifter....a lot eaiser to control 4low / high and 4wd/2wd.

 

[lovetoski]

I had this problem, and fixed it.

First you will find an adjustment linkage under the truck. Adjust it so it "pushes" the gears harder. It's been a couple of years since I did this, but I think you make the linkage longer.

Second, get a stronger/stiffer spring and replacement ball from Marlin.

No promises this will work for you, but it worked for me. Parts were cheap, the adjustment was free.

 

[Elbert]

emergencey brake cable bracket

here are a couple of pics showing the bracket on the rear axle that I was talking about. Looks like someone has screwed with it and bent it or something. Is this bracket important and what does it do?

 

[Elbert]

bracket

see the bracket... Does this bracket suppose to hold or grab the emergencey brake cable....sure looks like its suppose to, and someone has bent it for some reason and left if disconected...WTF for?

 

[StevoJonesFJ60]

That bracket is pretty important because it allows the e-brake cable to have a 90 degree pull to activate the emergency brake. you should try to bend it back or have it replaced.

 

[Elbert]

I had this problem, and fixed it.

First you will find an adjustment linkage under the truck. Adjust it so it "pushes" the gears harder. It's been a couple of years since I did this, but I think you make the linkage longer.

Second, get a stronger/stiffer spring and replacement ball from Marlin.

No promises this will work for you, but it worked for me. Parts were cheap, the adjustment was free.

thanks for the suggestions. We put in new HD springs and balls from Marlin some time ago...no real change. I think at this point it is the linkage or some type of binding with the floorboard or boot. It does it in teh most aggrivating times...right when you get into a hard pull going up a steep hill climb....I'll try to get under there and look around over the weekend.

 

[Elbert]

That bracket is pretty important because it allows the e-brake cable to have a 90 degree pull to activate the emergency brake. you should try to bend it back or have it replaced.

Ok...I figured it was and I just had never screwed with the cable before... I'll see if I can buy a new one, if not I'll just try to bend it back and hope it does not break.

 

[88Retired62]

The rear wheel parking brake equalizer is one of the most neglected parts of the modified or stock FJ 60/62 Cruisers in terms of maintenance. The sad part is it takes a licking and keeps on ticking. The good news...NOS parts are still available from the dealer. Here are the part numbers (I'm assuming my 62 series is interchangeable with the 60). Total cost = $22.00

EQUALIZER (2) 46341-31010
BOLT (1) 90109-08022
NUT/WASHER (1) 90080-18070
BUSH (2) 90385-12029

As usual, the thin nylon bushings are the first to deteriorate.