$2 KDSS front bushing geometry improvement (1 Viewer)

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Jan 10, 2013
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I was considering buying the Dr KDSS brackets but as I looked at them I was considering that they aren’t compatible with the treaty oak spacers in the front, and my spacer leaves the sway bar and the truck pretty level. After taking the brackets the hold the bushings on I had an idea.

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There was more than enough steel to just drill a new hole and more or less duplicate that portion of the spacers, and with the bonus of not pushing the whole sway bar forward.

I used a punch to mark the center of where I wanted the new holes. Make sure you’ve moved enough over to not interfere with the nut for the existing hole, and not too far to interfere with the outside of the bracket. I drilled a pilot hole and then the full size, a good practice unless you’re really confident with a large bit not walking on you.

I zipped the claws off of the bracket same as the spacers. They are probably an alignment aid, I can’t see them adding strength.

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The $2 worth of parts, M12x1.25 nuts and two M12 washers. Only used unplated because rebuilding the LCA is on the menu and I will likely weld them in from the back.

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Bolts stuck through, used a couple punches for alignment and a floor jack to take tension off of the KDSS piston.

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I could have went a little bit more to the outside, but this also served to stop the nut from spinning.



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What the alignment looks like back on the ground, but without driving to settle the KDSS.

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The drivers side is way better, and that’s the side that has been destroying the bushing.

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I may play around with the passenger side and the fixed link spacer to see what looks best, but I’m pretty happy with the concept.
 
That is brilliant! I am also concerned to move the bar further forward. I am running SuperPro quad offset LCA bushing and it already move the bar forward. It is getting close to the radiator.
 
This is very smart indeed. Regarding the placement of the nut...One could settle the suspension with the lower bolt removed, match drill the hole, then tack weld a nut on the backside. I currently have the Treaty Oak spacers installed and not a fan of the skid-plate fitment.
 

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