1KZT-E fuel injector pump seal leak (1 Viewer)

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Halifax, Nova Scotia, CANADA
Re: KZJ78 Land Cruiser Prado with 1KZT-E engine and leaking o-ring on Toyota part number 22100-67030 (Denso 096500-0110)

My injector pump has a minor (diesel) fuel leak originating from the head sub-assembly block (into which threads the spill control valve). The o-ring seal in this location may be faulty (see red arrow in image, attached).

Has anyone experienced this? Can the o-ring seal be replaced? Any information, comments, or suggestions on this issue are welcomed.

Thanks!


Disassembly diagram.png
 
It seems IH8Mud member GTSSportCoupe was able to change his 2LT-E distributor head without removing the head fully...

Denso Rotary Injection Pump Reseal questions

Hey Guys, here is the thread where I actually did the re-seal job on my injection pump: Resealed my rotary injection pump

Really most of the work is just getting the pump off and back on. Some of the seals could be done in-situ I suppose. You can look at my pictures, and then your engine bay and see what you want to do. Just make sure you clean the area super well if you are going to try to do the work on the truck. You do not want ANYTHING getting into the pump internals.
 
Thanks GTSSportCoupe! It looks like you loosened the distributor head bolts and backed the head out just enough to change the seal but to not lose spring compression in order to keep the spring shim / distancing spacer in place.

Does that sound about right?
 
i have reseal many pumps,usually by separating the dist head from the pump body,tried a few times by just separating the head enough to change the o ring,if your new o ring is black in colour,they can be stretch to go over the head,if your new o ring is green colour,they cannot be stretch enough to go around the head.
if you are trying to just change the o ring by not separating the head,mount the head on a vice with the head pointing upward,the spring tension will push the head up after you loosen the 4 bolts,the 1/4" space is enough for u to change the o ring,do not lift the head any more,pieces will start falling.
if you decided to separate the head,just be very carefull when you lift the head up,watch carefully how the pieces are arrange as they start falling apart.
I put some grease on the springs and shims so they will stay together when I put it together.
 
Excellent first-hand information simonliew; thanks for the input!

As you have resealed many injector pumps, are there some seals that fail more often than others? Can you estimate the average life of a rebuilt pump?
 
I am thinking around 100,000 km,ive seen the two side cover fail the most,then the top cover and the speed sensor o ring on the top cover.
 
Well, I ordered the O-ring seal for the distributor head from EBay at the site of Allmakes-Diesel-Specialist, and he sent me the green seal identical to the one that GTSSportCoupe used. I turned the engine to TDC and took out the Denso VE injector pump. Indeed I stretched the seal over the head, but I couldn't match up the drive pin on the cam plate with the plunger so that the head wouldn't seat as it should. I feared the spacer had moved...

I removed the head completely and everything stayed intact - the diesel viscosity kept everything together. I centred the spacer and lined up the drive pin on the cam plate. Then I tied the head assembly together using light fishing line and carefully placed the head assembly in the pump body. I then cut the line and pulled it out so that I knew the two parts mated well. The four hex bolts threaded in nicely.

After putting everything back together, I found out that the manual priming pump was shot. So i found an inline hand-squeeze bulb-type fuel pump an that worked like a charm to pull fuel through the filter and push it through the injector pump. It fired up on the third try!

I put a new fuel filter and timing belt on as part of the process.

Now, the engine idles well at both speeds, but hiccups / hesitates irregularly at ~2000 rpm. Not sure if I have to rotate the injector pump in an effort to better the timing, or maybe its a IP filter thats dirty, or.... Any suggestions?
 
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all the 2lte that I worked on,including injection pumps and new cylinder heads hiccaps and misfire and runs rough at 1500 to 2000 rpm under no load,did you go for a drive?it will drive normal.
 
Thanks simonliew! You were absolutely right! I took her for a test drive and it ran fine. Under normal driving, the RPM's rarely make it to 2000 anyway. And when you do go above 2000 rpm, the rest of the truck is rattling so bad, you wouldn't know if the engine is missing anyhow!

I did read on another forum that revving the engine while not under load is generally ill-advised...
 

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