1KZ-TE Crankshaft Position Sensor Issues (3 Viewers)

[badman9]

Hi all, 2000 KZN185 Hilux Surf here with the 1KZ-TE engine.

I had a problem with an occasional check engine light flashing on for a second or so, but it made no difference to driveability or performance. Doing the diagnostic port pin jumper, the check engine light would give code 12 (12 = No RPM signal during cranking. )

A few weeks ago however, I got an engine wash (looking for some oil leaks) and since then the check engine light has come on and mostly stayed on. Once the light was on, the vehicle was extremely sluggish, and I would occasionally feel it cutting the power for want of a better term, ie. seeing the revs drop while they should be increasing etc. I had VERY little power, especially in low RPMS

This weekend, I got the vehicle scanned using a Launch code reader system and it came up as P0340 (12) - Crankshaft position sensor circuit “A” no signal after cranking.
With this guidance, I got my electrician to change the crankshaft position sensor for a new (generic ebay chinese) one. He also tested the wiring to make sure there were no breaks etc. He said that the resistance value for the old (genuine) sensor was way off spec, but that the new one is within the range indicated in the service manual.

The check engine light is now gone, but I still don't have the sort of power I had pre-check engine light. For example, I cannot get more than 7PSI of boost (it used to max out at 11psi) and it seems to me that the electronic fuel pump just isn't sending as much fuel as before (since all other mechanical bits are the same). The engine also seems to sound a bit "rougher" than before, especially around 2200rpm.

Do you guys think the generic crankshaft sensor could be offering false readings to the timing control valve and throwing off everything? Is it worth spending the money on a genuine sensor (about 100usd in jamaica, 60usd online) to give that a try, or should i be looking elsewhere?

Thanks for all the help!

 

[badman9]

To follow-up,

Started the engine cold this morning and I seem to be getting what sounds like fuel knock (and a lot of unburnt diesel coming out the back until the engine warms up).

Any idea if this could be related to the potential crank sensor issues?

Thanks thanks

 

[roscoFJ73]

Looking around the internet , there doesnt seem to be a huge outcry against Chinese made crank sensors. In fact they are making sensors for many OEM applications. But for $60 online , the Toyota OEM might be worth trying. Or try another Chinese made sensor form another supplier.
There was a recall for 11000 sensors made for Range Rovers, that was the only bad thing I could find.

The 1KZ TE have that electronic thing on the fuel pump and they can start causing some weird problems

 

[badman9]

Looking around the internet , there doesnt seem to be a huge outcry against Chinese made crank sensors. In fact they are making sensors for many OEM applications. But for $60 online , the Toyota OEM might be worth trying. Or try another Chinese made sensor form another supplier.
There was a recall for 11000 sensors made for Range Rovers, that was the only bad thing I could find.

The 1KZ TE have that electronic thing on the fuel pump and they can start causing some weird problems

Yeah, I am starting to wonder if it is a crank sensor only problem or if I am looking into the timing control valve (again). I had a lot of fuel knock and similar issues the last time i had the timing control valve go bad, but it threw a clear code the last time around. Those sadly are not cheap at all, and are a real pain to source, especially in Jamaica.

Whenever you can find the timing control valve, it is usually 200+ us plus shipping etc

I guess step 1 is to test out the circuit itself as well as to figure out if the crank angle sensor has a part to play in all of this before going on to more expensive repairs. The 1kz-te engine repair manual clearly identifies a bad crank angle sensor as a possible source of timing issues and knock.

Oh how I wish I just had a 1KZ-T and not TE. That E has been the number one cause of issues on my vehicle over the years

 

[roscoFJ73]

I would be looking for the 1KZ T pump if it looks like getting pricey. Are there any good diesel injection shops in your area?

 

[badman9]

I would be looking for the 1KZ T pump if it looks like getting pricey. Are there any good diesel injection shops in your area?

There are some guys who do ok injection work, but not a full-sized or specialty shop per se. I guess what i'm trying to do is eliminate the cheaper problems before going on to the more expensive ones.

Will keep you posted once I get chance to try another crank angle sensor.

 

[badman9]

As an update. Changed the crank sensor to a "genuine" one ... I use that with some skepticism since the shop I bought it from has rumours that their genuines are not such...

Anyway, it seems to have sorted out half the problem but not all.

It fixed the fuel knock/timing issues, since the cheap generic crank sensor seemed to have been feeding false crank position info to the injection system.

I still have the problem of not really fuelling enough which is limiting power and boost. I do theorise that the intake air temp sensor may be disconnected (internally) though, since something similar happened before and the power falls off drastically, but with no CEL or indication that something is wrong.

Will update soon

 

[duncanrm]

There's a manifold pressure sensor on the 1KZTE.. worth checking its connection and operation. A very long time ago I had a 1KZ-TE with substantial loss of power.. this had failed.

 

[badman9]

There's a manifold pressure sensor on the 1KZTE.. worth checking its connection and operation. A very long time ago I had a 1KZ-TE with substantial loss of power.. this had failed.

Thanks! Will get those sensors checked out as soon as I can. In the process of moving house, but once that is done I can begin focusing on the surf again

 

[badman9]

Just to follow up,

re " I still have the problem of not really fuelling enough which is limiting power and boost. I do theorise that the intake air temp sensor may be disconnected (internally) though, since something similar happened before and the power falls off drastically, but with no CEL or indication that something is wrong. "

Firstly, I was having some issues with the vehicle stalling out randomly while driving. It would usually start back no problem, but on Tuesday it would crank, start, stall instantly after.
Anyway, electrician paid me a roadside visit and after much looking around, we realised that one of the wires that controls the e-throttle was shorting and therefore triggering the throttle to shut randomly (regardless of my accel pedal position)

He fixed the wiring on this but I was still short of power and boost... I went home and went through all the boost lines and it turns out the boost hose coming from the intercooler wasn't connected to the manifold, so I was losing boost there.

The 1kz-te seems to be working fine for now with regular driveability restored, but I have to say that that e in 1kz-te has been the source of most of the problems I have had on this vehicle over the years.....