Gday,
My aim in posting this thread is to share information that may help other members in the future. Have a good look at the photos as they will contain more detail than I can type. Please refrain from asking about costs in this thread, I'd prefer that sort of question to be privately fielded. Here's a big cheers to members who have also contributed their knowledge and experience over the years to this site. It has been an invaluable resource.
Engine.
The engine comes from a 2006 HDJ79R ute. It is an ex underground hard rock mining vehicle. These vehicles experience a lot of corrosion (even more than I expected). This engine was supplied with the vehicle's entire harness, all engine related electrical components and a bell housing from a HZJ75 (to suit H55F).
I bought an '88 FJ62 standard at Christmas 2014. It is a clean vehicle and my third 60 series. Previously I've had an '85 2h equipped (converted to 12HT) and an '88 Sahara with 12ht and auto. I made the mistake of selling both of them and decided (with wife onboard!) to start over with a clean vehicle. This one has now travelled an indicated 137149km (85000 miles) with 3000 of them being this year so far. It has been reliable and very easy to live with.
Next in line was wiring. I had to identify the wiring, plugs and components I needed and strip the rest out of the harness. This took considerable time to plan and understand but I believe I've got it right. Time will tell!
After removing the original exhaust system and cutting the 3F mount brackets from the chassis, I fitted the HZJ75 bell housing and placed the 1HDFTE into the engine bay. I am using mount brackets I bought from Georg at Valley Hybrids. He was great to deal with, showed fantastic communication and patience with my currency blunder (oops).
So with mounts tacked to the chassis it was time to start on all the fiddly stuff. Exhaust, clutch, fuel, intake, cooling, electrical, vacuum, steering.
I decided to sort the electrical first as I was still waiting on some parts to arrive. I had to decided where to mount the ecm, spill relay, efi main relay, spill control valve and comms port. The ECM ended up behind the left kick panel, it's a logical position. The comms port I mounted under the dash between the glove box and side of the cabin (see photo). Relays and spill control unit were mounted in the engine bay on the Left side.
I am concerned about the comms port location as in this position it might injure a passenger in an incident. I am still looking at other options that will allow easy accessibility. The last photo shows the extra hole I've cut into the firewall (below original) to route the engines harness.
Then it was time to mount the throttle. These engines are fly by wire meaning the throttle is electronic (no throttle cable. I wanted to ensure that throttle pedal positioning was the same as stock. I don't like installations that compromise comfortable operation of a vehicle and these sorts of details are now days a high priority for me. So I needed to make a bracket that would move the electronic pedal to the right and into the stock location. The pedal bracket has mounting holes at the top and bottom. I used one of the old throttle cable bolt holes at the top and the bracket in the photo below to get it right. This was time consuming as I'm not much of a fabricator.
I think I'll lower the pedal height around 10mm (move it closer to the stopper on the floor) to make it more natural but otherwise it's a good thing. Where it is currently is hard for the ankle (I know, photos don't show it), like your toes need to be close to you shin bone when your heel is on the floor.
As this vehicle was a petrol model, the brake booster took vacuum from the inlet manifold. So I have mounted a reservoir from a HZJ75 to the right inner guard. The 1HDFTE's vacuum pump is mount at the left front of the engine with a hard line travelling across the front of the block and ending just behind the alternator (the one pointing downward in the photo). A couple of feet of vacuum hose and it's sorted.
I also bought some power steer hard lines from a HZJ75. I bent and moulded them into something that would work. I'm not happy with this part of the job so I've ordered some fittings for the power steer box (they arrived two days ago) and will have some hoses made to suit the vehicle.
I forgot to mention keyswitch and alternator wiring earlier. The alternator control is wired into the original plug via and adaptor plug from ebay. I will take the positive post of the alternator directly to the battery positive (this vehicle was modded that way when I got it too). The original positive lead on the left of the engine bay I will attach to the starter positive. I have taken key switch and unswitched power from the power outlet at the right of the engine bay and mounted a relay there for starter switching. The relay is driven by the start signal that was originally supplied to the coil. This way means the vehicle's in cabin wiring is unaltered.
You can see the two harnesses containing the wiring mentioned running across the top of the engine. Starter supply will drop down from the battery, under radiator and along left chassis rail.
For the exhaust I bought a 3" system from an Australian supplier I have used previously. This takes care of business from tail pipe to the rear of the gearbox. A work mate gave me a factory 100 series dump pipe to trial. It would of worked but I wasn't happy with proximity to the brake lines, I didn't want to alter brake lines and the factory dump is 2.5". So time for a custom dump pipe unfortunately.From there I bought a variety of 3" bends, flex, flanges, a 3.5" 90* and 3.5"-3" reducer. I already had a CT26 exhaust flange in my possession.
I was hoping to form the 3.5" bend into the turbo outlet flange but it didn't spread far enough. So I had to customise and fit a wedge to take care of the wastegate area. Here are some photo's with it assembled on the deck (please excuse the welds).
At the moment I am working on upgrading the fuel supply. The 1HDFTE originally uses a 12mm supply and 8mm return. Yesterday I bent up a 1/2" pipe for supply and am planning to use the vehicles original 8mm supply as the return. I am using the 8mm and 6mm outlets from the tank joined into the 12mm supply. They will be a restriction for the 12mm but later on when the fuel tank is upgraded I will have a 12mm pick up incorporated. The return I will tee into the tank breather hose that runs to the filler neck. I have already removed the unleaded fuel restrictor from the top of the filler neck. I also have to finalise fuel filter mounting and make a bracket to suit.
Other problems to solve are clutch line routing, air cleaner to turbo plumbing, fan shroud/radiator mounting, and input shaft swap. Once my clutch plate shows up from CruiserParts.net (backordered) it's time to hit the key. Still quiet a way to go!
