1HD FTE (pre heater / EGR valve)

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I"m interested in any feed back on the removal or modification on the pre heater in the crossover pipe to inlet manifold and the removal of the EGR valve. The objective is to reduce restriction while still giving the appearance of stock.

I've seen people pull the heater element out of the alloy surround, which still leave a small hole, but still looks stock and I've seen people remove the heater completely which is dead obvious to the boys in blue! Has anyone had an alloy plate CNC'ed to replace which looks stock standard?

Most people put a blank in the EGR pipework to stop the entrance of exhaust gas into the inlet manifold, this looks stock but still leaves a rather large valve in the crossover pipe. Has anyone completely removed the valve and inserted an alloy CNC'ed block? No, this would not look 100% stock but a good compromise in attaining unobstructive flow while looking pretty stock to the untrained eye.

Thoughts??
 
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I"m interested in any feed back on the removal or modification on the pre heater in the crossover pipe to inlet manifold and the removal of the EGR valve. The objective is to reduce restriction while still giving the appearance of stock.

I've seen people pull the heater element out of the alloy surround, which still leave a small hole, but still looks stock and I've seen people remove the heater completely which is dead obvious to the boys in blue! Has anyone had an alloy plate CNC'ed to replace which looks stock standard?

Most people put a blank in the EGR pipework to stop the entrance of exhaust gas into the inlet manifold, this looks stock but still leaves a rather large valve in the crossover pipe. Has anyone completely removed the valve and inserted an alloy CNC'ed block? No, this would not look 100% stock but a good compromise in attaining unobstructive flow while looking pretty stock to the untrained eye.

Thoughts??

I have thought about both issues mentioned but I have not actually made the changes. In my wanderings around the web, the series of Australian "Dan vs Car" videos turned up on youtube. Part 2 and Part 3 seem to be the most relevant. If not already seen, might be worth a look and might answer some of your questions -- or maybe get in touch with Dan directly via Facebook or whatever.

See the relevant playlist at:



As all know, there are obvious compliance issues being on-road in Australia with EGR disabled -- but I am not sure what is the argument against removal of the intake pre-heater which is standard on the 1HD-FTE turbodiesel engine. As you would know, this enabled elimination of glow plugs from the design of this engine. Unless winter is spent in the Snowy Mountains or Victorian High Country or in cold parts of Tasmania, it is hard to see the real need for the intake preheater in most other parts of Australia.
 
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I"m interested in any feed back on the removal or modification on the pre heater in the crossover pipe to inlet manifold and the removal of the EGR valve.
I recently carried out a 'complete' EGR and intake heater delete on my Aussie-spec 2003 HDJ100 in conjunction with reconditioned injectors, new injector lines, full valve clearance reset and a thorough cleanout of the inlet path.

I did a detailed thread on LCOOL but that site is temporarily unavailable so I'll post a few pics here for posterity.

Heater:
I removed the wiring and relay from the engine bay and gutted the heater internals.
Simply refitted the heater power connection post (including internal o-ring) but others tap this for an external boost guage.

I see no benefit at all to 'port matching' the heater casing as it's significantly larger than both ends where the piping connects and provides no flow restriction that I can see, particularly as it is almost always under positive boost pressure.

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For the EGR valve, I replaced it with genuine Toyota part 17861-17030 sourced from my local Toyota dealer.
I used new gaskets however they are all metal shims and could be re-used with a coat of gasket sealer.

The EGR pipe was removed and I made up a blank for the exhaust manifold.

The two vacuum valves (orange & brown) on the front part of the crossover manifold were removed and wiring tied back. The two valves on the rear of the manifold (blue and black) need to remain in place (turbo boost sensor). All small vacuum hoses were traced through the tappet cover and blanked off where appropriate.

The engine vac pump is now redundant as it only supplies EGR control vacuum on post-2002 HDJs. The port has been blanked but I'll eventually remove the pump entirely and blank off the hole. Also, the RH battery only feeds the inlet heater on post-2002 HDJ's so is technically now also redundant.

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Two valves/sensors retained:
Not shown is the small vac line which runs from the blue valve down to the hard line through the tappet cover, and then on to the top of the small white plastic filter on the front of the crossover manifold. Another line runs from the bottom of the filter into the crossover manifold.

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Note retention and orientation of the vac piping and filter feeding the boost sensor. In this pic the filter is immediately left of the EGR valve replacement casting on the crossover manifold and held with a spring clip. It needs to sit upright so excess oil drains back into the manifold:

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BTW, the inlet heater on the HDJ is not to aide in starting, it's solely an emissions reduction device to reduce cold engine emissions.
 
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BTW, the inlet heater on the HDJ is not to aide in starting, it's solely an emissions reduction device to reduce cold engine emissions.
Thanks for this clarification -- I had relied upon the statements in the two extracts below from FSM for the 1HD-FTE turbodiesel -- but maybe I was over-reading them?

The first pic comes from the General Description in the FSM, the second pic comes from a page in the "Diagnostics" section -- but I am not sure whether they apply to pre- or post- 2002 engines.

Also, it seems in my 2006 LC100 with 1HD-FTE the two batteries are in parallel and therefore act together as though one very large battery, jointly feeding all requirements, as indicated in the EWD below. If so, is it really the case that the RH battery only feeds the inlet heater on post-2002 HDJ's? Or is it just that with the Intake Heater gone, the vehicle no longer needs both parallel batteries (setting aside the different matter of an additional battery fitted to support after-market accessories, fridges, etc)? Or am I missing something here?

Happy to learn from your experience and discoveries ....

1HD-FTE Intake Heater 1 per FSM.jpg



1HD-FTE Intake Heater 2 per FSM.jpg
 

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Sorry,

Yes, the batteries are wired in parallel so act as one bigger power reservoir. The only thing physically connected to the RH battery though is the heater. Notwithstanding aftermarket additions. In other words, with the heater deleted, you can isolate the RH battery with no further loss of function. One good battery in the LH cradle is more than adequate to start the HDJ anywhere in Australia.

Even if the heater is left in-situ, I strongly recommend disconnection of the heater relay power. Your alternator will thank you.

And, on mine, I don't ever recall seeing a glow warning when the heater engaged.
 
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Wow!! In your opinion would an oil catch-can slow down this accumulation? Obviously, if the EGR apparatus disappears, that will make a big difference. After an intake clean and valve clearance reset at 200,000kms on my vehicle (EGR and Intake Heater left in place), my independent mechanic persuaded me to fit a HPD catch-can, felt that it would help, but considered that there was too much risk of backpressure with the more worldly and better-filtered PROVENT catch-cans. The HPD looks pretty but I am not sure that it is doing much! Afterwards I noted many reports favouring PROVENT -- but I am left thinking "Whatever, if the EGR stuff stays in place, an intake clean every 100,000kms might be a good idea!" Any comments on catch-cans?
 
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I'm not a fan of catch cans on the 1HD-xxx. Too much risk of backpressure, as your mechanic alluded to, and I just don't think a little oil through the inlet tract is a bad thing .... as long as the SOOT from the EGR is avoided (EGR delete). Catch cans add potential fail points for no benefit (IMO) and add maintenance effort.

I will add, I didn't notice any significant increase in performance after all the work and cleanout. But mine is still on the original turbo and setup. I do sleep better knowing it's not sucking in globs of oily carbon (apart from the diesel fuel, which I guess is oily carbon;))
 
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Thanks for your posts, all good info.

I maybe a step a head!

I've made two CAD files, one for the heater block and one for the EGR valve block. Both blocks machined on a 4 axis CNC.

I also bought the Toyota EGR replacement block but the one I'm making is significantly cheaper.

I'm just editing my vid for you-tube now. In the vid I show the 3D plastic printed examples. The machined products will be exactly the same.

Im going to machine up 10 of each to begin with, but it obviously gets a little cheaper the more you do. CNC machine time is not cheap. so let me know if your interested. Im going to try and finish the editing tonight. If I can Ill post a link in this thread.

My goal was to decrease restrictions, ease of transition through the alloy (6160) blocks and maintain air velocity to intake manifold. Yes people will want to disent the semantics of that, but that was the goal. I have a PDI intercooler, GTurbo Red Wheel, PDI airbox (which Ive also done some mods to and a 4" stainless snorkel.
 
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Man, where has the time gone.

Looking for more torque to pull that caravan or boat in your 100 series?? Then this is for you!!!

This
Image 19.jpeg
Heat 1a.jpeg
Heat 1b.jpeg
Heat 2a.jpeg
Heat 2b.jpeg
is for two adapters in the crossover pipe from the intercooler to the inlet manifold. The first is the replacement of the heater block and the second is the replacement of the EGR valve block.

These adapters were made to remove airflow restrictions in the crossover pipe. Both adapters are made from 6061 alloy and are milled millimeter perfect on a 4 axis CNC machine. Each cast Toyota crossover pipe is slightly different. As you can see in the pics I've gone to a lot of trouble to match port both adapters (on both sides of the plate) to increase air velocity and decrease turbulence.

1 The first pic is of both adapters.
2 The next four pics are of both sides of the adapters with there opposite mating face. They are millimeter perfect.
3 The next pic shows how close the porting is on the inside of the heater adapter.
4 The next pic with the green background is the OEM heater which shows how obstructive to airflow it is.
5 The next two pics show the inlet of the crossover pipe with the heater in and then with the replacement adapter in.
6 The last pic is looking into the EGR replacement adapter again the porting is millimeter perfect.

Any questions send me an email, easy horsepower gain.
 
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Nice work! I don't suppose you've had a chance to run back to back dyno figures of before and after?

Like I said above, I didn't notice any significant power change after removing my EGR, gutting the heater block, and cleaning the inlet path (and it was filthy). But my turbo, IC, exhaust and airbox are all stock.
 
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I do have some dyno figures pre adapter change but I'm currently upgrading the turbo, intercooler, airbox, snorkel and injectors as well. So its a bit hard to do a pre and post comparison of before and after the adapter change.

I did put the crossflow pipe with the new adapters and OEM heater and EGR valve on a flow bench for a bit of a comparison. This will take more time to get accurate data but suffice to say there was a change at mid and high flow rates when the engine is pumping the most air.

The good thing is these do look stock to the casual observer, probably a bit to clean, but definitely stock.
 
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I guess if you are chasing power, deletion of the butterfly would also be on the list. But that's risky........
 

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