1HD-FT EGR delete with a 3D printed crossover adapter!

[syche]

Do not try to use it without curing it in an oven, 5 to 6h, or you will end up with a wasted part, trust me, i tried.

The intake air will be about 120/150 degrees at cruising speed, and passed 80/90 degrees, uncured, this materials will soften and deform, and you will have leaks.

Increase your tolerances a bit, PA material will absorb moisture over time and you will have issues, give it a tad more freedom. for example if you print your part, let it sit on the bench for a few days or a week, with your tight tolerances, it won't fit on the stud bolts.

You are getting close

 

[John Young]

Do not try to use it without curing it in an oven, 5 to 6h, or you will end up with a wasted part, trust me, i tried.

The intake air will be about 120/150 degrees at cruising speed, and passed 80/90 degrees, uncured, this materials will soften and deform, and you will have leaks.

Increase your tolerances a bit, PA material will absorb moisture over time and you will have issues, give it a tad more freedom. for example if you print your part, let it sit on the bench for a few days or a week, with your tight tolerances, it won't fit on the stud bolts.

You are getting close

Thank you for the insights, @syche. I asked about this today. I will ask the engineer to comment on that and perhaps also check with his colleagues. The JB Weld easily could stand that annealing temp according to what I have read. Certainly there is no harm in throwing it in the oven overnight once the epoxy is cured in place. I will find out what the recommended temp is for annealing.

This iterative process had its ups and downs but I have to say the result was fantastic and I will be doing this sort of thing again.

 

[syche]

Can you tell me some about the cruise control unit you used? i am searching for an aftermarket one

 

[syche]

Yes you need to refer to the filament manufacturer specs for the annealing temp, mines are 110 to 135 degrees C for 4 to 7 hours, i tend to push to the higher end since the parts are pretty thick and i check them regularly with the thermal camera.
Supporting the crossover tube to the cylinder head, on the turbo side would also help mitigating long term issues.

 

[John Young]

Can you tell me some about the cruise control unit you used? i am searching for an aftermarket one

Interesting that you asked that. I just posted the victory video of the part going on the studs and a friend said: "Can you remind me please what necessitated this in the first place?" I responded as follows:

"The 1HD-FT I got from the HDJ-81 had both an automatic transmission and EGR. I already had installed a blocking plate for the EGR but I found it esthetically unpleasing and wanted to delete the whole mess of pipes and whatnot. And regarding the pump the calibration for the pump being for a slushbox the lower end was pretty poor powerwise. So I thought to replace with a Chinese pump, and when that had issues (unrelated to the actual pump function) I decided to rebuild the existing pump. All this under time pressure to get the truck shipped to the US"

I have a bit of bursitis in my right leg so I really need cruise control. I searched around quite a bit before settling on the unit from an Australian company with the name Autostrada. Not cheap, but the engineering is very good for cruise control on a manual transmission. I have it on two 105's, two 80's, a troopy and a Prado, and it operates smoothly and makes a huge difference on the highway. It so happens that we are having a problem with this cruise control on this 80, but I think it is related to the fact that the upholsters had the dash out and may have screwed up the brake or clutch interlocks somehow. (The unit disengages on either brake or clutch.)

 

[John Young]

The young engineer's response:

Hey John!

Of course! Here is my response:

The stock nozzle on the Epitum machine is 0.5mm, which is a rather unconventional size, but to Syche's point, absolutely correct, composits tend to cause nozzle clogs due to the added fibers (wood, CF, GF et.) These don't melt with the polymer, they flow through the nozzle, hence the 0.5mm nozzle is used as opposed to the standard 0.4mm on most 3D printers.

That said, we do print CF infused material with 0.4mm nozzles as well, rarely clogs, it also depends on the quality of the filament, size of the particles, and of course slicing parameters specifically feedrate, flow (layer height + line width) and temperature.

Regarding drying، yes, most polymers are hygroscopic, and PA6 is notorious for that, so drying is a must even out of the box, which we did of course for all our tests, tbh I wasn't fully satisfied with how dry the filament was, but it was dry enough to give good quality (no air gaps and excessive stringing)

The warping... PA6 loves to shrink and is highly sensitive to temperature gradients, which is the same case for all high temp, engineering materials, the bed was 130, chamber at 90, I used a raft, used glue, the corners were filleted, yet we had slight warping, which should never happen with the Epitums -they are built for this- glass beds however is not the best for this, and perhaps the speed of the first layer was a bit too fast, but the weird thing is that when I removed the print I didn't notice any warping, tbh, the bed was a bit warm, not sure if the warmth was enough to cause it to warp, it would be the case normally if the bed was hotter, I need to test more with this, but yes PA6 is not easy, on most machines it's a 100% fail, or sloppy results

Btw, the carbon actually makes printing it easier, it's the polymer itself that likes to warp, with more carbon، u have less Nylon to worry about

 

[syche]

Hi, agreed with all above, that is why i went towards other filaments depending of my application and temp range, Pet-cf is a good contender up to 120 degrees c, very stable once cured, paht-cf is so far holding pretty good on the hot side, but more testing needed.

 

[VADUS]

Easy alternative solution to eliminate EGR manifold is on photo below. I implemented it on my car in 2013, and then in 2019, when installed turbocharger and intercooler from FTE. Cost of this collector about 50 USD, and the pipes are still alive and work on another project.

 

[John Young]

Easy alternative solution to eliminate EGR manifold is on photo below. I implemented it on my car in 2013, and then in 2019, when installed turbocharger and intercooler from FTE. Cost of this collector about 50 USD, and the pipes are still alive and work on another project.

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You are right of course.

And strangely, for reasons I cannot explain, I actually have one of those rectangular adapters, most likely left over from a Safari turbo kit.

But here's the thing. One night about a month ago I was dropping off some parts at the garage after hours after the garage was closed and I had kind of a long drive home and decided I would look for a bathroom in the other warehouses in the same development. (I actually enjoy going into other businesses and see what they are doing.) I wandered into a metal fabrication place but there did not seem to be anyone around, so I went on to the warehouse that was newly rented and it turned out to be a 3D printing outfit. Way back in 2005 or so I got interested in this in Singapore, even bought parts to roll my own printer, but never followed through. And this printing company really was very impressive. They had massive machines including very large laser-resin printers.

I've got a buddy in Washington State who has been doing large-scale printing for his auto projects and simply got very interested in seeing if I could solve my crossover using 3D printing.

Now that I have been through the process on this very challenging adapter, I can see the attraction of it and I want to get more involved. For example, for some reason it is very hard to get the little plastic covers on the swing away spare tire hinges for the 80 series, but someone has gone to the trouble of designing inserts that can be printed.

So I will be trying this in ABS with carbon fiber, I think. The Omani diesel and the Holy Truck both are missing these.

And then the next item will be a better console for the EGT and boost pressure gauges.

I've asked the young engineer to come over tomorrow with his 3D scanner and measure up the space to create something like this.

And even initially the plan was to machine up an adapter using a block of aluminum, but that would have been pretty challenging given the available machine tools.

So in summary, absolutely yes, it would have been simpler and cheaper (even free actually) to do the right angle hose approach you suggest, but this was personally very interesting and educational, and, I think, more esthetically pleasing, which does have some impact with me.

That all said, thank you for pointing out the other option. If we had not nailed in this last go round I would have done exactly as you have suggested.